The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes
10-06-2009, 10:01 PM
#136
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Yet another benefactor to this great thread. Dropped my blower motor and pulled out the broken recirc door. Strong air again. Thanks.
Fortunately - in Miami - don't use the heater
Fortunately - in Miami - don't use the heater
10-07-2009, 07:36 AM
#137
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After a complete tear down (minus draining the coolant/refrigerant), I ended with broken panel doors and defrost doors. I replaced as many doors, couplers and actuators as I could. The only other issue is I now discovered I have a stripped power seat motor.
10-13-2009, 12:39 AM
#138
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ok guys i have an 06 qc slt-in sig- and all the controls still work, but wat i ahve noticed is:
1. takes awhile to switch from one defrost to feet to vents, or vice versa
2. air flow seems to be very weak compared to normal
3. seems like something in dash is blocking air flow since it sounds like air is being blocked in dash.
can anyone point me in the right direction i have never done anything like this before?
1. takes awhile to switch from one defrost to feet to vents, or vice versa
2. air flow seems to be very weak compared to normal
3. seems like something in dash is blocking air flow since it sounds like air is being blocked in dash.
can anyone point me in the right direction i have never done anything like this before?
10-13-2009, 07:40 AM
#139
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ok guys i have an 06 qc slt-in sig- and all the controls still work, but wat i ahve noticed is:
1. takes awhile to switch from one defrost to feet to vents, or vice versa
2. air flow seems to be very weak compared to normal
3. seems like something in dash is blocking air flow since it sounds like air is being blocked in dash.
can anyone point me in the right direction i have never done anything like this before?
1. takes awhile to switch from one defrost to feet to vents, or vice versa
2. air flow seems to be very weak compared to normal
3. seems like something in dash is blocking air flow since it sounds like air is being blocked in dash.
can anyone point me in the right direction i have never done anything like this before?
Sounds like your panel door is broken. Your defrost door might also be stripping out. No matter, you either have to use the heater treater system or pull the whole dash. I pulled the entire dash, it wasn't too bad.
10-13-2009, 08:25 AM
#140
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Back to morning brew...
10-13-2009, 08:28 AM
#141
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Sounds like you have two distinct issues. Take care of the easy one first. Drop the fan with the 3 screws holding it in. Its located by the passenger seat's floor. Once the fan is out, reach in and take out the Recirc Door that broke off and is laying across the intake of the fan, thus blocking 90%+ of the air flow. Put the fan back in and test your system. If you can live with it that way, you are ahead lots of $$$. If not, your second issue, the Mode Door is probably stripped out. Good writeups here on how to replace that.
Back to morning brew...
Back to morning brew...
I would check the recirc door, but don't count on it. Mine was not broken but I still had the loud noise and no airflow. Hopefully it's your problem.
10-13-2009, 05:27 PM
#142
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ok i will check on that, now can i run without that recirc door? i honestly dont use recirc much at all since winters r defrost & feet and summer is windows down, can i just take that out?
10-13-2009, 08:21 PM
#143
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10-14-2009, 10:30 PM
#145
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The door is moved by a motor to a certain point, at which, the Heater A/C Control Module tells it to stop. When you put in a new door, the Heater A/C Control Module needs to be told where the door is in relation to the stops. If you don't have it calibrated, you run the risk of snapping the door off again as it closes against one stop or the other and the motor continues to try to move the door further because it thinks the stop is further.
Please don't ask me how I know this.
So, after I change out the new door/motor/housing assembly I bought last summer (or the summer before), I'll do the last step of the instructions (let the dealer do the last step is what I mean).
CALIBRATION).
Please don't ask me how I know this
.So, after I change out the new door/motor/housing assembly I bought last summer (or the summer before), I'll do the last step of the instructions (let the dealer do the last step is what I mean).
(6) Perform the heater-A/C control calibration procedure.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
CONTROLS - FRONT/A/C-HEATER CONTROL
- STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CONTROL
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
CONTROLS - FRONT/A/C-HEATER CONTROL
- STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CONTROL
CALIBRATION).
10-15-2009, 08:41 AM
#146
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Mine just broke last night. Heard a pop and then I couldn't get anything but dash vent to blow air. The kicker is I just has this fixed at the dealer back in February. Then it did blow out the top vents and front. Should have left it alone!!!!
10-15-2009, 11:25 AM
#147
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is the recirc door the most common thing to break?
if so can i just take it out if i dont use recirc and that will be one thing i wont have to fix in the future?
if so can i just take it out if i dont use recirc and that will be one thing i wont have to fix in the future?
10-15-2009, 12:50 PM
#148
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Yes, you can run it without the recirc door in place. As an alternate, you can attach the recirc door to the inside opening of the housing which means you have outside air only (no recirc). I did this myself back in the summer using plastic zip ties. However, since the temps around here were well over 100°F, having no recirc meant the A/C did not cool enough for me, so I broke down and had the new housing complete with recirc door and actuator installed. No problems then with being able to stay cool, even in 106°F heat!
10-15-2009, 08:14 PM
#149
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After looking at it harder it is not the blend door for hot or cold but the one that switches from defrost, to vent, to floor. All it does is blow out the vents now. No matter what is selected.
10-15-2009, 09:26 PM
#150
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