The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes
02-26-2010, 07:49 AM
#166
Registered User
Ratl, IRT Kenni's question.
if i order the Heater Treater kit,
do i still need the Dodge parts?
gonna be a one shot deal, do it once, do it right, wrap it back up.
got a buddy going on travel, gonna drive his Toyota (it's nice because you don't have to mash the gas too hard
and do this inside a buddy's garage (he's a part time mechanic, so be out the cold & take time to get it all right)
what's the word on the calibraions, if i disconnect the batteries, then turn on the HVAC and cycle thru all modes, will it "auto-cal' or do i need to have the dealer set the limits with the heater treater doors?
remember when heater doors worked off little cables that looked like lawnmower throttle cables?
more technology is NOT always better.
tks
john
if i order the Heater Treater kit,
do i still need the Dodge parts?
gonna be a one shot deal, do it once, do it right, wrap it back up.
got a buddy going on travel, gonna drive his Toyota (it's nice because you don't have to mash the gas too hard
and do this inside a buddy's garage (he's a part time mechanic, so be out the cold & take time to get it all right)
what's the word on the calibraions, if i disconnect the batteries, then turn on the HVAC and cycle thru all modes, will it "auto-cal' or do i need to have the dealer set the limits with the heater treater doors?
remember when heater doors worked off little cables that looked like lawnmower throttle cables?
more technology is NOT always better.
tks
john
02-26-2010, 10:42 AM
#167
Registered User
It will auto calibrate after you do the reinstall on its own. No dealer needed. No dodge parts needed.
The system is actually a great sytem. Its just the plastic doors cant handle the torque of the servo motors.
I removed the ac dryer and radiator overflow tank. Made getting to the 4 outside nuts easier.
Defiantly disconnect the batteries.
There are two 10mm bolt above the steering column that need removed. Cant see them till you drop the column. Be sure to unplug the wires going to the foot throttle and twist and remove the brake light switch.
Other than the wires that control the heater, thats all the wires that need disconnected. The dome light wire should be disconnected also.
Both the dome light and hvac wires are on the right side of the truck.
I left the heater hoses attached to the hvac. They are hard to get to from the outside.
When removing the front panel just below the windshield, be very careful not to scratch your dash. The clips are very sharp. I put a 2 inch scatch in my dash when I drug it across.
Two people are pretty much needed to get the hvac box out. One to hold the dash back and one to manuever the hvac box out.
All of the wires that travel along the servos stay with the hvac box.
Ask your mechanic to hose out any dirt in the ac evaporator and heater core.
Once the dash is pulled back, dont worry the wires still have plenty of travel.
Oh, remove the ignition wires from the holder ring under the column. They do get tight after the column is dropped. just move the seat forward and let the sterring wheel rest on the seat. Column has 4 13mm nuts that hold in place from underneath.
3 13mm bolts on each side of the dash and two 10mm bolts under the center of the dash is all that holds it in.
Youll have 4 8mm bolts under the panel just below the windshield and 2 10mm bolts there also.
Plastic that needs removed:
Panel under winshield at front of dash. . Just clips off. Its very sharp, even the plastic is sharp.
The 2 grab handles on pillar. 2 10 mm bolts each, they are umder the snap caps.
End caps at sides of dash. Just snap off.
Rocker and kick panel assemblys. Both sides. Just snaps off.
All of the plastic around the console. 8mm bolts and snaps.
Plastic panel under column. 2 screws and then snaps off.
Sheetmetal panel under column. 4 screws.
Emergency brake rod needs removed from the red clip on the emergency brake assembly.
Thats it.
There are 2 10mm bolts that hold the hvac unit that are on the top of the hvac that need removed from the inside once the dash is pulled back.
It really isnt that hard of a job, just be very careful with all the plastic. It can be scratched easy and will show a pry mark at any pry point unless a wide blade tool is used to pry on it with.
If you can get the vehicle into a warm building the plastic snaps will come apart much easier than if out in the cold.
The hvac box easilly comes apart after removing all the screws. Thats all pretty much self explanitory.
Sorry its out of order, just wrote as it came to me.
Youll love your heater after the heater treater install. Be sure and test the doors with the 9 volt wires and battery supplied in the kit. You supply 9volt battery. Be sure new doors operate freely. Test everything on the bench before reinstall.
Carey
The system is actually a great sytem. Its just the plastic doors cant handle the torque of the servo motors.
I removed the ac dryer and radiator overflow tank. Made getting to the 4 outside nuts easier.
Defiantly disconnect the batteries.
There are two 10mm bolt above the steering column that need removed. Cant see them till you drop the column. Be sure to unplug the wires going to the foot throttle and twist and remove the brake light switch.
Other than the wires that control the heater, thats all the wires that need disconnected. The dome light wire should be disconnected also.
Both the dome light and hvac wires are on the right side of the truck.
I left the heater hoses attached to the hvac. They are hard to get to from the outside.
When removing the front panel just below the windshield, be very careful not to scratch your dash. The clips are very sharp. I put a 2 inch scatch in my dash when I drug it across.
Two people are pretty much needed to get the hvac box out. One to hold the dash back and one to manuever the hvac box out.
All of the wires that travel along the servos stay with the hvac box.
Ask your mechanic to hose out any dirt in the ac evaporator and heater core.
Once the dash is pulled back, dont worry the wires still have plenty of travel.
Oh, remove the ignition wires from the holder ring under the column. They do get tight after the column is dropped. just move the seat forward and let the sterring wheel rest on the seat. Column has 4 13mm nuts that hold in place from underneath.
3 13mm bolts on each side of the dash and two 10mm bolts under the center of the dash is all that holds it in.
Youll have 4 8mm bolts under the panel just below the windshield and 2 10mm bolts there also.
Plastic that needs removed:
Panel under winshield at front of dash. . Just clips off. Its very sharp, even the plastic is sharp.
The 2 grab handles on pillar. 2 10 mm bolts each, they are umder the snap caps.
End caps at sides of dash. Just snap off.
Rocker and kick panel assemblys. Both sides. Just snaps off.
All of the plastic around the console. 8mm bolts and snaps.
Plastic panel under column. 2 screws and then snaps off.
Sheetmetal panel under column. 4 screws.
Emergency brake rod needs removed from the red clip on the emergency brake assembly.
Thats it.
There are 2 10mm bolts that hold the hvac unit that are on the top of the hvac that need removed from the inside once the dash is pulled back.
It really isnt that hard of a job, just be very careful with all the plastic. It can be scratched easy and will show a pry mark at any pry point unless a wide blade tool is used to pry on it with.
If you can get the vehicle into a warm building the plastic snaps will come apart much easier than if out in the cold.
The hvac box easilly comes apart after removing all the screws. Thats all pretty much self explanitory.
Sorry its out of order, just wrote as it came to me.
Youll love your heater after the heater treater install. Be sure and test the doors with the 9 volt wires and battery supplied in the kit. You supply 9volt battery. Be sure new doors operate freely. Test everything on the bench before reinstall.
Carey
02-26-2010, 11:12 AM
#168
Registered User
(6) Perform the heater-A/C control calibration procedure.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
CONTROLS - FRONT/A/C-HEATER CONTROL
- STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CONTROL
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
CONTROLS - FRONT/A/C-HEATER CONTROL
- STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEATER-A/C CONTROL
CALIBRATION).
02-26-2010, 01:11 PM
#169
Registered User
The actuators go until they meet resistance and then they stop. Calibration refers to the actuators finding the open and closed limit points. I just did all of my HVAC doors and had no issues, but I did notice that it took a few seconds longer than normal when testing everything out and switching modes for the first time after reassembly. Now that every actuator has calibrated itself, the modes change quickly.
It's not a bad job, just time consuming. It's definitely not worth paying the dealer 8 hours worth of labor for the job.
It's not a bad job, just time consuming. It's definitely not worth paying the dealer 8 hours worth of labor for the job.
05-12-2010, 05:45 PM
#170
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
can someone tell me what is happening to my 04 cummins, the airconditioning will blow just fine out of the vents. Then all the sudden it stops blowing out of the vents and starts coming out of the defrost vents. I can turn the control **** and nothing will happen it will only come out of the defrost vents. Is the door thing bad on mine or is it some kind of acutator. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I dont have to proper tools to test the electrical stuff. thanks.
05-14-2010, 12:28 PM
#171
Registered User
can someone tell me what is happening to my 04 cummins, the airconditioning will blow just fine out of the vents. Then all the sudden it stops blowing out of the vents and starts coming out of the defrost vents. I can turn the control **** and nothing will happen it will only come out of the defrost vents. Is the door thing bad on mine or is it some kind of acutator. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I dont have to proper tools to test the electrical stuff. thanks.
05-14-2010, 12:56 PM
#172
Registered User
it takes a few seconds (maybe 10-15?) for the motor to move the door.
i was thinking a door has broke off, and moves around when you hit the bumps.
i put all the heater treater doors in mine, and it still acts goofy.
i have go from defrost to dash to get the defrost to shut, then i can go to feet.
if i go from Defrost to feet, ~60% keeps coming out of the defrost.
it's junk.
i was thinking a door has broke off, and moves around when you hit the bumps.
i put all the heater treater doors in mine, and it still acts goofy.
i have go from defrost to dash to get the defrost to shut, then i can go to feet.
if i go from Defrost to feet, ~60% keeps coming out of the defrost.
it's junk.
05-14-2010, 11:32 PM
#174
Registered User
it takes a few seconds (maybe 10-15?) for the motor to move the door.
i was thinking a door has broke off, and moves around when you hit the bumps.
i put all the heater treater doors in mine, and it still acts goofy.
i have go from defrost to dash to get the defrost to shut, then i can go to feet.
if i go from Defrost to feet, ~60% keeps coming out of the defrost.
it's junk.
i was thinking a door has broke off, and moves around when you hit the bumps.
i put all the heater treater doors in mine, and it still acts goofy.
i have go from defrost to dash to get the defrost to shut, then i can go to feet.
if i go from Defrost to feet, ~60% keeps coming out of the defrost.
it's junk.
07-28-2010, 10:28 AM
#175
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now the rest....
18th STEP: On the passenger side kick panel you will see the third bolt for the dash as well as the antenna connection and two connectors. One is white and one is grey. Disconnect all of these. the antenna will require peeling off the thin foam to do this. Remove the last bolt completely.(3/8 ratchet 13mm deep socket 4" extension) Dash should move now, loose.
19th STEP: Now simply lift up slightly and slide dash back. It should rest and not fall. Now you can see the housing. Undo the two screws and lift up on the back of the housing to free the snaps at the firewall. Twist it to free it and undo the connector on the actuator. Needed a small screwdriver to pry it up. Hard to see.
20th STEP: Remove housing and reinstall new housing plus new funnel included in box. hold harness out of the way. The new housing will need to snap into place. I lined mine up and gave it a little bump on top. You will know it is right when it won't tip back to you. reinstall two screws and PLUG IN THE HARNESS!!!
21st STEP: slide dash assembly back to pillar and start re-attaching hardware.
It took me right at fifty minutes including the picture taking and console sidetrack to get it out and be ready to put back together. Another hour to go back together being careful......Hope this helps some!
18th STEP: On the passenger side kick panel you will see the third bolt for the dash as well as the antenna connection and two connectors. One is white and one is grey. Disconnect all of these. the antenna will require peeling off the thin foam to do this. Remove the last bolt completely.(3/8 ratchet 13mm deep socket 4" extension) Dash should move now, loose.
19th STEP: Now simply lift up slightly and slide dash back. It should rest and not fall. Now you can see the housing. Undo the two screws and lift up on the back of the housing to free the snaps at the firewall. Twist it to free it and undo the connector on the actuator. Needed a small screwdriver to pry it up. Hard to see.
20th STEP: Remove housing and reinstall new housing plus new funnel included in box. hold harness out of the way. The new housing will need to snap into place. I lined mine up and gave it a little bump on top. You will know it is right when it won't tip back to you. reinstall two screws and PLUG IN THE HARNESS!!!
21st STEP: slide dash assembly back to pillar and start re-attaching hardware.
It took me right at fifty minutes including the picture taking and console sidetrack to get it out and be ready to put back together. Another hour to go back together being careful......Hope this helps some!
Completed the repair this last weekend. Found the instruction easy to follow but it did take me about 3 hours to complete. Well worth the time and money saved.
Thanks
07-28-2010, 07:51 PM
#176
"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been thoroughly satisfied my heater treater doors. Followed the instructions and all went smooth as butter. After 3 yrs of having nothing but vent air the time it took me to do the tear down and install was definitely worth it. I would definitely do it again if I had to. For anyone tossing around the idea of doing this......GO FOR IT...YOU WON'T REGRET IT!!!!
07-28-2010, 08:03 PM
#177
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When mine broke, I glued it to the opening that lets in outside air. I never have run it on anything except recirculating anyway. Maybe I`ll fix it this winter when I have the time but it work better now than it did when I bought the truck.
08-23-2010, 10:45 AM
#178
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My problem is the A/C fan started vibrating on the high setting. It will switch between feet, vent, and defrost, but it takes 30-45 seconds to move. It also is cold on the drivers side and warm on passenger side. Gonna do the heater core bypass today to see if that helps. Also going to pull the fan and see if I have door debris. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
My dealer says they "think" it'll take part# 68021981AA which requires draining AC and heater core. I don't like it when they say "think" b/c usually that means bend over and take it while we tack more onto your bill. What really pisses me off is that I had it in the shop twice for the same thing while it was under warranty, but they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It's amazing they find something wrong as soon as it's out of warranty.
Ratlratl- great wright up BTW.
My dealer says they "think" it'll take part# 68021981AA which requires draining AC and heater core. I don't like it when they say "think" b/c usually that means bend over and take it while we tack more onto your bill. What really pisses me off is that I had it in the shop twice for the same thing while it was under warranty, but they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It's amazing they find something wrong as soon as it's out of warranty.
Ratlratl- great wright up BTW.
08-23-2010, 03:00 PM
#179
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, so my recic door was broke and sent chunks of plastic into my fan causing the vibration. $50 for the housing and I'm good to go. I don't know were you guys found them for $17, maybe you have a better dealer than I do. Pulling the dash out now.
For any one that's going to do this yourself you might want to start with step 14 so that your steering column won't be in your way while removing your center console.
For any one that's going to do this yourself you might want to start with step 14 so that your steering column won't be in your way while removing your center console.
08-26-2010, 10:05 AM
#180
Man I've read and read about all this. Read about it in the past, read all 12 pages here. This past month I've noticed my AC wasn't working as well as it did, but didn't think too much about it, but this morning I have no air out of any vents and it's making a louder whirling blower noise like a hair dryer in a box. LOL. I guess something let loose finally. So what is it? Blend Door, Recirc door, Mode door? If I switch between heat and cold I can feel the temp change trickling out of the vents. So I think the mode and the blend seem to be ok from what I think, but I'm guessing the recirc door dropped over the blower. Correct?
Is the metal HeaterTreater doors worth it? They seem to show going from teh front for the fix, but this post seems to say to remove the dash and lay it in the seat and pull the whole box out. Should I get all of them and do them at once if that's the case? I KNOW I don't want to do this again, and my megacab's AC/heat never has been 100% great IMO.
Is the metal HeaterTreater doors worth it? They seem to show going from teh front for the fix, but this post seems to say to remove the dash and lay it in the seat and pull the whole box out. Should I get all of them and do them at once if that's the case? I KNOW I don't want to do this again, and my megacab's AC/heat never has been 100% great IMO.