Thanks XCC. I just got a reply from Franz- Yes you must do it.

It is only for your security, only 1 of 100 trucks opens the valve somtimes but imagine you pass a truck on a 2 line street and your truck bogs!



Franz
He also sent this- 1. Disconnect only the throttle valve connector and block of the EGR. In this case all other connectors and components can remain in place.

2. Remove the EGR system entirely. Then all components, EXCEPT the EGR actuator motor, can be unplugged and taken off.

 

How long do I have after deletes to dump exhaust components already have 350 mi on rig waiting for pipe to show up, am I in danger? Everything is fine so far, running with a real light foot , pipe is supposed to b here Monday and that's another story.

 

don't run it any further than you have to until you get the DPF out of it, for a wee bit of driving you should be alright but less is more better in this case haha

 

Ok thanks Wade and with a name like that I have to trust you thanks again😊 Wade B.

 

Thanks Wade from one to another , appreciated info
wade

 

glad I can help! haha

 

wow what a difference. I did the deletes and running 28me on smarty jr put it on towing like a new truck

 

Ended up with over 1000mi on truck with delets before I put delete pipe on and my dpf looked very white to say the least , would have figured it would be black and sooty as no regens were taking place but now I do notice just a tinge of black when I get in it a bit with smarty on 3"mild" and timing on 2 so I feel I was safe running it for a while just done through the pcm.

 

Blake (or anyone), would love your thoughts, opinions and advice on this. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=1#post3233532

 

Sorry Blake. I know I just posted and probably should've read all 34 pages

So this is what I'm gathering, and correct me if I'm wrong. By doing EGR delete, DPF delete and removing NOX, throttle valve delete, tuner and better airflow system, I can get better fuel economy and power? I live in PA and we have emissions testing every year. If I would take all of this mods back off, unplug and replug the battery, drive 50mi to reset computer and go get it tested by a non-dealer, do you think it would pass?

 

Yes, you will get all those improvements. Even with doing the minimal cali-style deletes you will see better economy and power. I revert my deletes back to stock every 2 years, set the tuner back to stock and pass with no issues. And actually, the first smog test I had I left all the deletes in place as well as the Smarty set to SW3 and it still passed their visual smoke test. They did then fail it because it was missing parts though which sucked. I bolt the stock back on, showed them, passed again, and then took them back off the moment I rolled back into my driveway. What a joke really.

 

So, do I even have to reset and drive 50+ miles before the inspection? Once yet again, I'm a newb. From what I have understood from reading on here, I HAVE to have a tuner in conjunction with the deletes, correct?

 

Yes, you must have a tuner. You can do lots more with the tuner as well, such as calibrate for tires, check codes, etc.. I drove 2 miles and got checked, never really heard of having to drive 50 miles. If there is no CEL then there should be no issue.

 

Cool. Any tuners in particular that you recommend? Have heard that some of the newer ones won't clear codes and you have to find a used one.?

 

That is true and sad about the crack down in tuners... I like my Smarty Sr. and you can find used ones Jr, or Sr. The newer ones won't do the deletes. It is not just about clearing codes. The CEL light is the least of the issue. That is just an indication there is a problem. You can simply unplug the EGR motor, get a light and the truck will run better... However, that is as far as anything goes without a tuner to take care of the modified or missing emissions equipment.