That sounds like a good idea. Did you do this?

Which is stock 1/2" or 3/4"?
Is it exactly 5 feet?
Is 4" the inner or outer diameter?

 

I built mine yup, I think stock is 3/8"...... I went with 1/2".

unfortunately I don't remember the exact length but I know its less than 5 feet I think 4'8" is closer to right. Measure and make sure please

4" OD should be right

I think I had $75 in parts and an hour into the fabrication and install

 

after doing deletes do you need to replace ccv filter

 

you can if you want, as far as I know its never been changed in my truck in the 110000 miles.

I ran mine after the deletes for about a year until I bought the plugs and filter kit from GDP and "fixed it" haha

 

2006BLKMegacab,

Did you weld it yourself?

If so, what is the thread for the bolts?

If not, any recommendations on getting a flange?

 

I did the welding myself, I'm not the best at making welds look pretty but so far it has held together. The factory metric bolts got put on the shelf with the DPF, I put in 3/8 X 2" bolts so I could tighten it up and have room to double nut them so they couldn't wiggle loose.

I had the concrete plant in town machine the approx 4 1/4" hole in the flange so it was actually round and was a nice snug fit on the exhaust pipe and then brought it home and drilled the 3 holes myself to save them the trouble, I then used a leftover piece of gasket making material to build a bit of a gasket to seal up and leaks.

 

The factory exhausts are aluminized steel, right? I ask because I read that putting stainless steel against aluminized steel can cause corrosion, especially when salt is present (winter, near the ocean, etc).

I was going to get stainless but I think without replacing the entire exhaust there may be issues down the road.

 

If they're aluminized mine saw enough road salt to make it look like regular steel so I just built it out of standard exhaust tubing and it seems to be fine thus far, it was designed to be a less than permanent fix when I did it and I have to buy a new exhaust for an 06 in another couple years so be it haha

 

A lot of people call the NOX filter the CAT... There are 3 untis in this system. The delete pipe replaces the NOX/DPF. The turbo back models (TBE) replace all 3. Sorry, I can't remember the pro-flow part number I used because it was so long ago. However, back then it had 1 exhause bung which is not needed and I plugged it with a bolt. You're probably safe with the part numbers they gave you. I'd just call them back and double check. The CAT stays, the NOX/DPF goes.

 

Awesome, thanks for clearing that up.

I think the part the have me was for the turbo back, but I found the right one on their site.

 

I very new to the 6.7 Cummings so forgive me if I ask to many questions ... I just got a few months ago a 08 ram 6.7 I got a super chip for it I plug it in and tells me I need to take it to dealer get the Up date for the ECU so took it to dealer they told me they couldn't load program into truck because it has a hard code on it ... PCM code P242F .. PCM code P1451 . First code is Diesel Particulate Restriction - Ash Accumulation ... Second code is Diesel Particulate System Performance .. So my questions are how do I get rid of that hard code and if I do the deletes on truck and get a black maxx tuner or smarty tuner will I have the same issues with them ? In order to do deletes and tuner done on truck what is my best or 1st thing I need to do ?

 

So what you're saying is you have the cel on and 2 codes stored right?
If the cel isn't on then you just have some stored codes and IIRC neither one is a hard code and be cleared with an inexpensive code reader from autozone. (I know, I've done it)

So try clearing the codes and see if the code reader sees them again. If no codes then the dealer should be able to flash the ecm.

The codes do indicate something is loading soot on the dpf and the codes may come back. This link will explain a lot and list some causes: http://dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=13534.0

As far as the Raceme, Smarty, H&S or even EFI, they all will do deletes (not the new US Smartys) and block the above codes.

As for the first thing to do, decide if you want to delete. If so then do some research on which tuner you want. Then decide what level of deletes you want to do (this thread is a good guide) and purchase the tuner, exhaust and egr delete parts (if you're going that far) and "git er done"

If not then find the cause of the excess soot accumulation in the dpf and correct it before you're buying a new one.

 

Thank you that answered some of my questions and yes I am ready to do the deletes just want to make sure I do everything right is all don't want to half *** it... So will the tuner do its thing if the codes are still there ? Because when I do the deletes I be doing everything all at same time.

 

I would suggest that the best situation would be to have a normally operating truck before you delete. I think this post even says that early on. If you never had the ecu updated before, that may be the root cause of your issues as the updated ecu flash addressed issues with the regen parameters. No matter what you decide to do, you'll have wondered why you didn't delete sooner! I know I sure did anyways!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

Great information! very educational. I actually installed an exhaust, intake, H&S Mini Maxx and Egr Delete kit on my Dads' '08 mega cab. before the EPA clamped down on things. It's a whole different truck, runs awesome!

I just bought an 2007 6.7 DRW 6 speed manual. It came with a 5 inch turbo back exhaust (no Dpf or cat but all sensors are still installed and plugged in) and it has one of the origional Edge with Attitude programmers in it. I learned after I bought the truck that that tuner does not delete the Egr or Dpf. the truck runs good but I get codes about the Egr and Dpf and a message on the overhead console comes up every time I drive it that says, "catalyst system requires full service". It clears the codes on start up but they come rite back after a bit.

I called edge (cuz that's what the dealership told me to do) and they said I need to put the stock exhaust (which I don't have so not an option) on or buy a different tuner that deletes the EGR and Dpf. I want to find an H&S but I don't have that kind of money to spend on one till business gets going in a couple months.

I guess another option is to find a smarty and use the edge for the gauges? I"ve researched stacking a little, what Smarty will delete Egr and Dpf? I guess they are less $ then an H&S?

I need to start using the truck soon, I don't like how it's set up now, I don't know what the previous owners where doing with it set up like that. Is it ok to run it like this now? (I guess the EGR is still working.) but I'd like to get rid of the EGR ASAP since the Dpf is already gone

Thanks, I look forward to your help