3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!

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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 11:37 AM
  #676  
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And yes I know

This is the old thread. My bad
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 01:20 PM
  #677  
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From: The Socialist Republic of Kalyforrnya
The message is for the egr cleaning not a dpf message. I don't have a 4th gen but for the 3rd gens the message is for the scheduled 67,500 mile egr system cleaning which is the cooler and egr valve.

To have a dealer do it will run between $700-1200 big ones.
To do it yourself will cost you 5 hours and about $120 for everything including gaskets and a crow foot wrench set.

If you're interested in keeping it stock then I would definitely clean the egr valve and possibly wait for the cooler until later. The coolers don't foul as badly as the valves and if fouled and sticking the valve can cause thousands in repairs.

if you're in an area that doesn't smog check the deleting is a good but expensive option.
And yes you can leave the egr system in place if you want.
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 02:25 PM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by usmarine1979
I just bought a 2012 3500 drw with 80,000 miles. There is a message to perform service and a mechanic friend told me it was the dpf service, so I’m looking at a full delete.

Im planning on purchasing the AFE Bladerunner intake manifold, the delete pipe, and the h&s minimaxx tuner, but if I read correctly, I don’t need to purchase the egr/ egr cooler delete kit. Is that correct? If you have any advice or suggestions on my choices, I’d love to hear them.

thanks in advance
You don't need to change the intake, and H&S tuner is no longer supported so be aware of that. There are other tuners and EFI Live is currently a main choice and supported. All you need is the delete pipe and tuner for the basics. You don't need to delete the EGR or EGR cooler.

The extent of the deletes depends on where you live and the rules for smog.
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Old May 15, 2019 | 12:56 AM
  #679  
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Okay so crazy question....

I did the deletes (California style) and need to do emissions, so now everything is installed back in.

For the DPF sensor (pic attached) which rubber tube plugs into which side? Front line plugs in where? Rear line plugs in where?



Thanks!


-Kris


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Old May 15, 2019 | 08:41 AM
  #680  
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From: The Socialist Republic of Kalyforrnya
Front to drivers side port
Rear to passenger side port
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Old May 17, 2019 | 10:19 PM
  #681  
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Originally Posted by xcc_rider
Front to drivers side port
Rear to passenger side port

Thanks man!



-Kris
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Old May 13, 2021 | 10:05 PM
  #682  
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Question

Originally Posted by Blake Clark
Thanks Fellas

98, unfortunately, the 6.7 ECM retains so many parameters its next to impossible to run tuners without being detected. Will there be a work around, maybe, but I don't see it, but if it happens, Ive got my money on Marco figuring it out.


Hey Blake, will the smarty touch that I just bought new allow for the mega style delete without derating the engine.. called xdp and they said its designed for emissions being on. Just would like to know if I wasted money on a turbo back pipe or if it will handle it. I know u mentioned the smarty to be able to work but didn't specify which one. Thanks in advance
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Old May 17, 2025 | 11:29 AM
  #683  
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The making of the engine whether it is diesel pollution or gas clean burn engine

[QUOTE=Blake Clark;2800893]Many people have asked for a tutorial on the Bluetec system on the 6.7’s. I figured it was high time it was put all into one place for those who need some guidance with the emissions hardware and how to work with and/or delete it. Now this is going to be long, but should be useful, I hope. We will start with the basics.

There are several components of the Bluetec system, which allow the 6.7 Cummins to meet 2010 EPA standards. On the Engine side there is the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. On the exhaust side there is the DPF (diesel particulate filter) NOX canister (Oxides of nitrous scrubber) and the Catalytic converter.

Lets start with the exhaust side.

When looking at the exhaust system from the turbo flowing back to the tail pipe, you will see four canisters total. The first canister that is closest to the turbo is the catalytic converter. It is the long canister in the bend of the down pipe.

The second canister is the NOX filter. It is the first of the large round canisters.

The third canister is the DPF.

The fourth canister is what is passed off for as a muffler. It is a straight through design for those that are wondering.

There will be five sensors in the factory exhaust piping. There will be two oxygen sensors. They are the larger diameter sensors. The three smaller sensors are the temperature probes. They measure what temp the DPF is at so that the ECM can put the truck into regen if needed. There is also a set of stainless steel tubing that connects to rubber tubing and a pressure sensor on the passenger side of the transmission. This is the DPF differential pressure sensor. It measures the flow of exhaust through the DPF, and can make a reading as to how much particulate matter is in the DPF at any given time. This works in tandem with the temp probes to keep the DPF clean and working in a (theoretically) functioning exhaust system.

I don’t have any pics of the factory exhaust in place. I didn’t think to snap any for posterity when I pulled mine off. Sorry

Now on to the engine side of the Bluetec system. The underhood components are group into three sections. The EGR, the EGR Cooler, and the Throttle Valve.

The EGR is on the intake side of the engine. It is positioned atop the intake horn and has the brown servo motor mounted on its right side.

The Throttle valve is located on the far drivers side of the intake horn. It is the part of the horn that contains the “butterfly valve”.

The EGR Cooler is positioned on the passenger side of the intake on top of the exhaust manifold.

The EGR System functions as follows. The EGR allows for exhaust gases to enter the intake stream. This is done by allowing the exhaust gases to cross “over” the engine via the crossover tube that is seen in the front of the engine. It is the long tube that sits in between the valve cover and the radiator. It connects the EGR Cooler to the EGR. As the EGR opens hot exhaust gasses flow from the exhaust stream through the crossover tube and into the intake. The EGR Coolers purpose is to cool the exhaust gases (as much as possible) using a cooling system that is integrated into the engines standard cooling system. The throttle valve functions to control the amount of fresh air allowed in versus the exhaust gasses being brought in by the EGR. So yes is fact, with the EGR system in place, most of the time, your engine is running on hot sooty exhaust gases, not clean fresh air.

Here is a picture showing the basic locations of the under hood components. Note that in this pic that the crossover tube is removed, as is the EGR servo motor, but will give a good idea to compare to a stock setup.

Attachment 67370

To accomplish any type of emissions deletes on the 6.7 you must employ the use of an aftermarket tuner. The two best tuners for getting the job done is either the Smarty Tuner, by MADS, or the Black Maxx (or its cousins), by H&S. Either setup will give you great results. This is not a brand war tutorial, so pick your own flavor. These two tuners are the only ones on the market that will allow you to COMPLETELY disable the Bluetec system and operate CODE FREE!

Other devices like the Edge Juice with attitude, will allow for removal of the DPF system, but not the EGR system. They also require simulators for the exhaust system and are not code free.

I must say, that any modifications to any of the Bluetec system, including but no limited to removing any hardware, and/or using a programmer, may result in the loss of your warranty. That is all dependent upon the way your local dealership views modifications and how good of a relationship you have with them.

One thing I always recommend is, should you have trouble with your Bluetec system and decide to delete, think about this. If you have any warranty left, make Dodge fix the system. That way when you delete you know that it was working properly and can only go upwards from there. If you are having trouble and have no warranty, ask questions in the forums before you act, we have a lot of knowledgeable guys and will be able to help you out.

Another thing to consider before doing any deletes is emissions testing in your area. Ask questions and know your restriction before you get yourself in a bind.

I must note however, that should you decided to delete, you will only ask yourself one question

“Why in the heck didn’t I do this sooner?”
May I add story. The emission is reduce pollution for CAFE air cleanliness requirement by Los Angela's city law so pollution is restrict.
The piston is Ford Motor raft 4.22 inches piston O.D. and the crankshaft for 6 cylinders engine is new make from common 3.976 inch stroke. The two bolt main bearings is always with groove where the main bearings cap is press fit to the big groove then add and tighten the 2 hex bolts up to 16 lbs foot wrench tighten with new Babbit bearings so always use penetrating thread locker for 5.468 liters in engine displacement equals 5.5 liter upfront only if you submit to buy it online. About the cast iron main bearings cap with half circle in the middle bottom of big groove. The half circle groove is for main bearings frictionless. The big groove is where the engine block have for press fit up to 10,000 psi force on main bearings cap to the big groove. Do not use bolt or machine screw to tighten down the main bearings cap because first use press 5 ton that connect both main bearings cap to the big groove. Then crankshaft USA is fit in already but use these 2 bolts M10 or M8 bolts to final fastened them only after press fit it together. 12,000 psi press fit is acceptable for 5 liter truck engine and up. The smaller hole for main bearings cap have, the better the strength of the main bearings guide. Main bearings guide is the cap and engine block butte called main bearings placement. Then the piston rod cap is tighten up to 10 pound-foot on the bolt because it is better gas mileage with new Babbit bearings halves.
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Old May 17, 2025 | 12:56 PM
  #684  
GoodwreDesigner's Avatar
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His picture showing the sensor plug up to the mechanical rpm plunger against throttle

Originally Posted by Blake Clark
Many people have asked for a tutorial on the Bluetec system on the 6.7’s. I figured it was high time it was put all into one place for those who need some guidance with the emissions hardware and how to work with and/or delete it. Now this is going to be long, but should be useful, I hope. We will start with the basics.

There are several components of the Bluetec system, which allow the 6.7 Cummins to meet 2010 EPA standards. On the Engine side there is the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. On the exhaust side there is the DPF (diesel particulate filter) NOX canister (Oxides of nitrous scrubber) and the Catalytic converter.

Lets start with the exhaust side.

When looking at the exhaust system from the turbo flowing back to the tail pipe, you will see four canisters total. The first canister that is closest to the turbo is the catalytic converter. It is the long canister in the bend of the down pipe.

The second canister is the NOX filter. It is the first of the large round canisters.

The third canister is the DPF.

The fourth canister is what is passed off for as a muffler. It is a straight through design for those that are wondering.

There will be five sensors in the factory exhaust piping. There will be two oxygen sensors. They are the larger diameter sensors. The three smaller sensors are the temperature probes. They measure what temp the DPF is at so that the ECM can put the truck into regen if needed. There is also a set of stainless steel tubing that connects to rubber tubing and a pressure sensor on the passenger side of the transmission. This is the DPF differential pressure sensor. It measures the flow of exhaust through the DPF, and can make a reading as to how much particulate matter is in the DPF at any given time. This works in tandem with the temp probes to keep the DPF clean and working in a (theoretically) functioning exhaust system.

I don’t have any pics of the factory exhaust in place. I didn’t think to snap any for posterity when I pulled mine off. Sorry

Now on to the engine side of the Bluetec system. The underhood components are group into three sections. The EGR, the EGR Cooler, and the Throttle Valve.

The EGR is on the intake side of the engine. It is positioned atop the intake horn and has the brown servo motor mounted on its right side.

The Throttle valve is located on the far drivers side of the intake horn. It is the part of the horn that contains the “butterfly valve”.

The EGR Cooler is positioned on the passenger side of the intake on top of the exhaust manifold.

The EGR System functions as follows. The EGR allows for exhaust gases to enter the intake stream. This is done by allowing the exhaust gases to cross “over” the engine via the crossover tube that is seen in the front of the engine. It is the long tube that sits in between the valve cover and the radiator. It connects the EGR Cooler to the EGR. As the EGR opens hot exhaust gasses flow from the exhaust stream through the crossover tube and into the intake. The EGR Coolers purpose is to cool the exhaust gases (as much as possible) using a cooling system that is integrated into the engines standard cooling system. The throttle valve functions to control the amount of fresh air allowed in versus the exhaust gasses being brought in by the EGR. So yes is fact, with the EGR system in place, most of the time, your engine is running on hot sooty exhaust gases, not clean fresh air.

Here is a picture showing the basic locations of the under hood components. Note that in this pic that the crossover tube is removed, as is the EGR servo motor, but will give a good idea to compare to a stock setup.

Attachment 67370

To accomplish any type of emissions deletes on the 6.7 you must employ the use of an aftermarket tuner. The two best tuners for getting the job done is either the Smarty Tuner, by MADS, or the Black Maxx (or its cousins), by H&S. Either setup will give you great results. This is not a brand war tutorial, so pick your own flavor. These two tuners are the only ones on the market that will allow you to COMPLETELY disable the Bluetec system and operate CODE FREE!

Other devices like the Edge Juice with attitude, will allow for removal of the DPF system, but not the EGR system. They also require simulators for the exhaust system and are not code free.

I must say, that any modifications to any of the Bluetec system, including but no limited to removing any hardware, and/or using a programmer, may result in the loss of your warranty. That is all dependent upon the way your local dealership views modifications and how good of a relationship you have with them.

One thing I always recommend is, should you have trouble with your Bluetec system and decide to delete, think about this. If you have any warranty left, make Dodge fix the system. That way when you delete you know that it was working properly and can only go upwards from there. If you are having trouble and have no warranty, ask questions in the forums before you act, we have a lot of knowledgeable guys and will be able to help you out.

Another thing to consider before doing any deletes is emissions testing in your area. Ask questions and know your restriction before you get yourself in a bind.

I must note however, that should you decided to delete, you will only ask yourself one question

“Why in the heck didn’t I do this sooner?”
Originally Posted by HMX-1
Okay so crazy question....

I did the deletes (California style) and need to do emissions, so now everything is installed back in.

For the DPF sensor (pic attached) which rubber tube plugs into which side? Front line plugs in where? Rear line plugs in where?



Thanks!


-Kris

This DPF and DPP is a pusher and it is includes throttle position sensor chips inside the DPF system of back exhaust higher pressure is for regenerating the soot off away from exhaust pipe system and it also lessen down the particles inside smoke out of the tail smoke stack of diesel powered truck and rigs. When the soot is accumulating and the exhaust is black from 18 wheeler engine and fueling in diesel as well as 30-wheeler pollution restriction computed system in new ECM. They use foot and boot to accelerate the engine diesel into higher power includes rpm. Then when the trucker ride along with lower speed rpm diesel pedal position of the degree where the feet is press in. It build up more soot until the DPF filter is accumulate the soot and it differ the pressure after the ceramic filter is clog up so the higher pressure is alert to the automatic self accelerating the diesel into higher rpm by the sensors Just for burning the soot completely. The automatic transmission requirement and cannot be using manual transmission that way it down shift the automatic transmission at same time the ECM robot control and turn up higher rpm that it does make the exhaust much hotter to a clean burn white smoke at same time the man control the steering wheel with robot called plunger. The plunger push against the
throttle air valve into faster. But it maintain the cruising speed in highway set up by man only inside big truck cab 60 mph. The plunger is connect mechanical to the throttle with electric motor and also connect
electrical to the sensor module = DPF. Another side of the DPF is connect to ECM and harness wiring.
The shape of the plunger is a sliding bolt and the bolt slides thru the telescoping tube. The bolt is push by the electric motor that the accelerating the rpm at same time downshift the auto transmission base is really control by the cruising speed set up **** at the steering column and/or the steering wheel with push buttons. The operator driving the rig diesel powered engine with only auto transmission control by robot and DPF and program DPP-ECM. There is DPP where is a bigger module named idle control module sensor combo just like a top the transaxle of 2009 Ford Taurus that the conduit and cable push and other also pull to shift the transmission automatic named bigger transmission than AOD4 motorcraft for hauling 14,000 pound pulling and hitching. The bigger important is the idle control sensor is a module with 9 pin or 10 pins wires but must be better and big change into being with another electric motor inside the module and controller Robotic by shifting the gears around and maintain the speed 55 mph as well it same time it lowers the rpm of diesel engine because the DPF did up shift base on soot accumulated in the filter. Overall. The Conductor must be a man or a woman which has to stay inside the cab for long haul and set up the cruising speed into active 65 mph up from 55 mph. And cut off the cruising speed computed system only for it to stop or slow down for safety while driving on these inflated tires.
The Mercedes AG can build wonderful automatic transmission for big Peterbilt with Cummins Engine 6 cylinders. The law is simple; the 2,000 HP diesel engine cannot win in tug war traction forward than the brake powerful system in stopping and diesel engine will not bulge to move. Simply the torque converter is slipping with transmission fluid.

Last edited by GoodwreDesigner; May 18, 2025 at 11:52 AM. Reason: What is robot the plunger in part of DPF and in highway speed of 55mph
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Old May 18, 2025 | 12:11 PM
  #685  
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Originally Posted by xcc_rider
The message is for the egr cleaning not a dpf message. I don't have a 4th gen but for the 3rd gens the message is for the scheduled 67,500 mile egr system cleaning which is the cooler and egr valve.

To have a dealer do it will run between $700-1200 big ones.
To do it yourself will cost you 5 hours and about $120 for everything including gaskets and a crow foot wrench set.

If you're interested in keeping it stock then I would definitely clean the egr valve and possibly wait for the cooler until later. The coolers don't foul as badly as the valves and if fouled and sticking the valve can cause thousands in repairs.

if you're in an area that doesn't smog check the deleting is a good but expensive option.
And yes you can leave the egr system in place if you want.
The EGR does not break, they are durable as long as the hole inside EGR is very big I.D diameter. But you must thread it out and thread it in and stop rust in the thread fasteners between exhaust recirculating
steel pipe and EGR. so take off the EGR and wire brushing on the thread and anti-seize grease dap to the thread of any tighten threads includes bolts holding down EGR. So test it if the EGR and vacuum create by mechanic man and see that the valve open up and it automatic close the EGR valve with the helix stainless steel spring. The spring should be replaced but it is disposable EGR whole. When we try to replace the spring it is stuck and factory rivet it. Even the socket and tools are not able to take EGR apart so the assemble of EGR is one unit of its pieces include the spring by the factory. Cleaning is optional use solvent to lubricant the valve stem in the EGR.
The Dodge uses Blue TEC machine MATX in the factory where I work as a HVAC and troubleshooting and the boss is the Pit Chief of our ASE super team Mopar. The Xion gas Magnum 5.9 liters big
displacement The Xion is right and it does not belong to me but I am fixing it when something goes wrong and new manual book must be editing includes better is the Forum of our work sites the
Mopar Garages and Barn. I want to report to all Magnum motor owner and diesel is American making the long block V8. Of the corporation into Tires making warehouse that can convert to Long block builder includes auctioneers in the southeast USA near BMW plant. In our fierce competition against Buffalo, NY plant, we are with Dorman plastic and hex bolts maker company and the part is called shroud with two electric fans motors. The heat melt the plastic fan in the output shaft of electric motor. And there is connector about 10 pins that includes if the connector is disconnect from the radiator E-Fan two wires and another pin and ground wiring also cuts off the ignition starting system so it would not crank motor starter. Big problem it confuses me but now we can learn instead of not knowing how. All I did is design the set the price of labor and part for it came off from Package where the Dorman and Advance Auto brought long distance from the Dorman company. The shroud and two fans and 2 E-motors with two wires per fan DC motor for a cost $400.00 dollars by cut out the necessary wires from Magnum 5.9 liter new Xion camper class B and couple and crimped the fan wiring connection these wire comes off from the big connector plug and receptacle 12 pins or 10 from China and EBAY selling electric wiring parts in its end of the cord/ wires. But time was consumed and electric diagram schematic was my order it. No one has it but then you will have it up for stock and for sale named super AG sales of the Dodge and Cummins dealership that conquer Mark Jacobsen dealer site in Durham of HWY 15-501.

Last edited by GoodwreDesigner; May 18, 2025 at 12:41 PM. Reason: The problem have arisen in Dodge electric radiator fan
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