Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!
For gauges, there's no problem. Just make sure there's no tuning added by the edge.
Can't comment on any advantage. You can stack the tuners by setting the smarty to 0 and use the edge for tuning or use the smarty for tuning and edge for gauges. Just don't use both for tuning or you can do damage real quick.
As for needing a built trans, it all depends on your right foot.
Can't comment on any advantage. You can stack the tuners by setting the smarty to 0 and use the edge for tuning or use the smarty for tuning and edge for gauges. Just don't use both for tuning or you can do damage real quick.
As for needing a built trans, it all depends on your right foot.
It looks like the "A" is a delete tuner so that's good.
I assume since you were running a street tune you know how to load a tune. If you have any doubts then go here: http://smartyresource.com/smartyupgrade.aspx
Post back here the complete file name you're trying to load on the tuner and we'll go from there.
You've got an '08 right?
I assume since you were running a street tune you know how to load a tune. If you have any doubts then go here: http://smartyresource.com/smartyupgrade.aspx
Post back here the complete file name you're trying to load on the tuner and we'll go from there.
You've got an '08 right?
Yes it's an 08'
I'm a little nervous of cutting off my exhaust and the delete load not working then the truck be in a limp mode now. Any way to be sure the above load is working before I cut off my exhaust?
Why would you cut off your exhaust? These things are bolt on/off. You can do all the computer work first without running the truck to see that this goes fine and then bolt off/on the equipment.

New Member. 2009 2500 SLT, Standard Cab, 6sp Manual., 6.7 cummins., 61k miles
My dad bought this puppy after a laughable modification to his generation 2, namely running a MECHANICAL oil gage in the dash, destroyed the cab's interior and his wife had a canniption. Ask me about oil pouring out of his radio.
For the 2009 he overbought. Towed 3500 lb camper 2 or 3 times a year, used as a daily driver, shifted too early, etc. etc.
In 2012 on a cross country, it did the limp mode thing several times. After returning to Pennsylvania, dealership spent $18k rebuilding it, under warranty. Injection, exhaust and (I think) turbocharger - all replaced and new. He was scared to death of the thing after that and barely drove it. Now, of course, most of the warranty has expired.
Dad passed in February. The truck is mine now, and still in Pennsylvania. While up there for his funeral, the "check engine" came on again. The dealership literally GROANED as I drove in. Long and short, they have ripped out ALL of the exhaust censors and replaced under a $100 deductible. It seems that though the truck itself was only under 36k mile warranty, emissions are under Federal 80k mile warranty?
...and it still needs the front end tie-bar recall done, but the dealership just laughs at me. "They will have the parts in 4 or 5 months.....maybe."
I have to get this beauty down to where I live in southern Arizona. My county does not test for emissions, so the delete is in the future. But my logic is I should do the delete after my cross country trip to avoid a black mark with Dodge so that I can get the recalls finished, and also develop a relationship with a local Diesel specialist.
So, finally, the questions:
1. What do folks advise I do on the cross country trip from Pennsylvania to Arizona to "keep her running while still 'stock'." I'd like to think I can convince a dealership that any sooting problems should be covered under the "work just done." But I'd rather not have them in the first place. I know to keep the Engine Break going so the turbo spins. What else? Pre-delete computer mods? Fuel additives? Get a rabbit's foot? Upgrade my AAA membership?
2. The Michelin LT 265/70 R17 tires he has are star- and spiderweb cracked from what appears to be dryness/ sun damage. I need to replace before I head cross country. I do intend to tow a between 5k and 6k trailer in the not-too-distant future, and know to get E-rated. But I doubt off-roading is in my future. My greatest interests are economy on the highway and highway comfort. Any suggestions.
Great job, all. I look forward to my eventual "delete" and any suggestions you can give.
Find out when the last oil change was and if more than 3k ago have it done before you go.
Same applies for the fuel filter if more than 7k ago.
Consider unplugging the egr valve electrical connector. It will help a lot until you can delete. Read here for info: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...egr-recap.html
Also consider cleaning the map sensor: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...or-w-pics.html
I'm sure there will be more suggestions.
Same applies for the fuel filter if more than 7k ago.
Consider unplugging the egr valve electrical connector. It will help a lot until you can delete. Read here for info: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...egr-recap.html
Also consider cleaning the map sensor: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...or-w-pics.html
I'm sure there will be more suggestions.
Find out when the last oil change was and if more than 3k ago have it done before you go.
Same applies for the fuel filter if more than 7k ago.
Consider unplugging the egr valve electrical connector. It will help a lot until you can delete. Read here for info: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...egr-recap.html
Also consider cleaning the map sensor: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...or-w-pics.html
I'm sure there will be more suggestions.
Same applies for the fuel filter if more than 7k ago.
Consider unplugging the egr valve electrical connector. It will help a lot until you can delete. Read here for info: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...egr-recap.html
Also consider cleaning the map sensor: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...or-w-pics.html
I'm sure there will be more suggestions.
MAP sensor - just replaced.
Unplug the EGR ... Hmmmmmm. Fuel savings on a 2500 mile trip could be significant. But the check engine light on for the whole trip gives me pause, only in that I might miss another critical warning. Very tempting.
Should I buy a Smarty now to read the codes since I'm going to have to get one anyway? Is the current state-of-the technology such that I must still try to find a non-US model?
As always, in awe of all of the investigation, trial and testing that has gone before!
Heck, you can pick up a $40 code reader that works better than the smarty or any other tuners out there. My cheapie Autozone code reader will read active, inactive (stored) and pending codes, along with giving all the I/M status'. Tuners don't do that and its a good investment just to keep in the truck for road trips as I do.
I check weekly for codes and a couple of times on a long road trip for good measure.
If you want to go the Smarty route then yes you have to find a pre-US Smarty. The emissions compliant (street) Smartys have US in the serial number so steer away from them.
Also, make sure it shows SMARTY on start up as *SMARTY* means its vin locked to another vehicle and can't be used on yours.
Besides that consider loading a street tune for your trip home. I'm running it on sw2 and am getting between 17.8 - 18.3 in 70% city - 30% hiway driving. I havent done a loaded or unloaded road trip yet so i dont have any hiway numbers for ya.
Unplug the egr and run the tune and you should see comparable numbers on your way home.
Disclaimer; my numbers are on the truck in my sig line. Yours may be different.
Just looked and my sig line isn't showing up in this post. Go to post #526 in this thread to see it.
I check weekly for codes and a couple of times on a long road trip for good measure.
If you want to go the Smarty route then yes you have to find a pre-US Smarty. The emissions compliant (street) Smartys have US in the serial number so steer away from them.
Also, make sure it shows SMARTY on start up as *SMARTY* means its vin locked to another vehicle and can't be used on yours.
Besides that consider loading a street tune for your trip home. I'm running it on sw2 and am getting between 17.8 - 18.3 in 70% city - 30% hiway driving. I havent done a loaded or unloaded road trip yet so i dont have any hiway numbers for ya.
Unplug the egr and run the tune and you should see comparable numbers on your way home.
Disclaimer; my numbers are on the truck in my sig line. Yours may be different.
Just looked and my sig line isn't showing up in this post. Go to post #526 in this thread to see it.

New Member. 2009 2500 SLT, Standard Cab, 6sp Manual., 6.7 cummins., 61k miles
So, finally, the questions:
1. What do folks advise I do on the cross country trip from Pennsylvania to Arizona to "keep her running while still 'stock'." I'd like to think I can convince a dealership that any sooting problems should be covered under the "work just done." But I'd rather not have them in the first place. I know to keep the Engine Break going so the turbo spins. What else? Pre-delete computer mods? Fuel additives? Get a rabbit's foot? Upgrade my AAA membership?
Great job, all. I look forward to my eventual "delete" and any suggestions you can give.
Bad choice of words "cut off" what I ended up doing was taking the PDF off and gut it out and re installed it with all sensors hooked up. It took a good hour or so just to gut it out but once it was done what a relief. Smarty tune worked and truck as had no issues after 800 miles. Throws out some black smoke now when I give it a good dose of the skinny pedal.
The story continues...
Thanks much. Oil and filter change - check.
MAP sensor - just replaced.
Unplug the EGR ... Hmmmmmm. Fuel savings on a 2500 mile trip could be significant. But the check engine light on for the whole trip gives me pause, only in that I might miss another critical warning. Very tempting.
Should I buy a Smarty now to read the codes since I'm going to have to get one anyway? Is the current state-of-the technology such that I must still try to find a non-US model?
As always, in awe of all of the investigation, trial and testing that has gone before!

MAP sensor - just replaced.
Unplug the EGR ... Hmmmmmm. Fuel savings on a 2500 mile trip could be significant. But the check engine light on for the whole trip gives me pause, only in that I might miss another critical warning. Very tempting.
Should I buy a Smarty now to read the codes since I'm going to have to get one anyway? Is the current state-of-the technology such that I must still try to find a non-US model?
As always, in awe of all of the investigation, trial and testing that has gone before!

A trusted local pennsylvania mechanic did the EGR and DPF deletes today and I have added the latest ME tune (S67V619J_DRM01M) and am nervously trying the engine which has delightful engine break sounds and throaty exhaust (Flo Pro pipes with muffler and Sinister EGR Delete).
My only concern is a pesky tire Air Pressure warning. The mechanic confirmed that the sensors are transmitting, the tires indeed DO have appropriate pressure.
The stuff I have on my ipad to read and clear the codes suggest there arent any.
Do I have a coincidental something, or should I go back a level or two on the SMARTY ME tune?
Allanma
Glad to hear you got it home safe, and with decent mileage too. Pretty good for street tuning. Now that its deleted you should see an additional one or two mpg's.
I dont have an answer for you on the tire press monitors. It does sound like a coincidence though asI haven't heard of that problem with any of the current tunes.
I dont have an answer for you on the tire press monitors. It does sound like a coincidence though asI haven't heard of that problem with any of the current tunes.
Glad to hear you got it home safe, and with decent mileage too. Pretty good for street tuning. Now that its deleted you should see an additional one or two mpg's.
I dont have an answer for you on the tire press monitors. It does sound like a coincidence though asI haven't heard of that problem with any of the current tunes.
I dont have an answer for you on the tire press monitors. It does sound like a coincidence though asI haven't heard of that problem with any of the current tunes.
Well, the tires are new but no tpms light until the deletes happen. That being said, I just remembered I have the "light load" button to try. Or maybe it's the spare.
Also, I'm using tune #2. What value, if any, is tune "0" which suggests half horsepower. Is this for no-haul highway cruising?
Also, I'm using tune #2. What value, if any, is tune "0" which suggests half horsepower. Is this for no-haul highway cruising?





