3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!

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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #316  
Jeepman71's Avatar
I can sleep now, my Smarty is safe.
 
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From: Colorado
Thanks for the reply Mega-Engr. I think I will start this in the next couple of weeks. Like you I have to put this stuff back on every two years so I will go minimal.

I see by your sig that you are using the Smarty Sr. I have also seen that Blake has reverted to Black Maxx, for stock tunes is there a real advantage to these higher end tuners than the Smarty Jr?

Thanks
Jeepman71
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 05:07 PM
  #317  
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For me, I would have gotten the Jr as it would be all I need. However, the Sr. came out first and I simply could not wait to fix my truck right! lol. Go with the Jr. or the H&S products, you will be very happy either way.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 11:20 PM
  #318  
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I can sleep now, my Smarty is safe.
 
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From: Colorado
Thanks for the advice. I think I will be ordering some toys after the long weekend.

Jeepman71
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 12:22 AM
  #319  
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From: Bashaw Alberta
Originally Posted by Blake Clark
Correct.

And Thank You for picking up my slack. Ive been really busy lately.
Its all good, just glad i finally can feel like im making a contribution around here for all the freelearning ive done over the past couple years i would have posted this sooner but I too get busy and fully understand.

One silly question i have that maybe someone has thrown out there in the past that i havent stumbled onto: is the EGR valve designed so that if there is sufficient drive pressure it will open regardless of whether or not the valve is being told to open?

the reason i ask is that i ran with the cali style deletes for over a year before removing the cooler and valve. After doing so noticed a big difference in mileage, approx 10-12 % on the highway, routinely getting 20-22 on the highway with it now.....same tune, same driver, same fuel retailer, the only thing that i changed was the removal of the 60 lbs of junk off my engine......

I have also been known to over think random crap that makes me come up with goofy theories like this, so if it dont make like "smrt" feel free to let me know
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #320  
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Is there someone in Tucson Az I can take my truck to have these deletes done?
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 06:56 AM
  #321  
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by 2006BLKMegacab
Its all good, just glad i finally can feel like im making a contribution around here for all the freelearning ive done over the past couple years i would have posted this sooner but I too get busy and fully understand.

One silly question i have that maybe someone has thrown out there in the past that i havent stumbled onto: is the EGR valve designed so that if there is sufficient drive pressure it will open regardless of whether or not the valve is being told to open?

the reason i ask is that i ran with the cali style deletes for over a year before removing the cooler and valve. After doing so noticed a big difference in mileage, approx 10-12 % on the highway, routinely getting 20-22 on the highway with it now.....same tune, same driver, same fuel retailer, the only thing that i changed was the removal of the 60 lbs of junk off my engine......

I have also been known to over think random crap that makes me come up with goofy theories like this, so if it dont make like "smrt" feel free to let me know
It may be possible that some still makes it way past the servo. I dont like taking chances, and ergo, do full deletes.

Originally Posted by jangles
Is there someone in Tucson Az I can take my truck to have these deletes done?
Deletes are not hard, give it a try and get a working knowledge of your truck. Nothing like accomplishing something to get that mod fire burning and wanting to do more and more and more......
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 10:42 AM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by Blake Clark
It may be possible that some still makes it way past the servo. I dont like taking chances, and ergo, do full deletes.



Deletes are not hard, give it a try and get a working knowledge of your truck. Nothing like accomplishing something to get that mod fire burning and wanting to do more and more and more......
I dont want to work on it, thats why I bought a new truck. I think I'm just going to let someone take over the payments or buy it for payoff. Thanks tho.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 10:41 PM
  #323  
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From: Bashaw Alberta
Originally Posted by Blake Clark
It may be possible that some still makes it way past the servo. I dont like taking chances, and ergo, do full deletes.



Deletes are not hard, give it a try and get a working knowledge of your truck. Nothing like accomplishing something to get that mod fire burning and wanting to do more and more and more......
ya, after the cooler, tube and valve they arent going to get put back on unless i have a catastophic engine failure that dodge will warranty


In all honesty the full deletes are easy, 3 or 4 hours and a 6 pack and its all over but the fuel savings if all else fails there should be someone on here who can point you in the right direction to find someone to do it
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 11:54 PM
  #324  
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Thanks for the replys guys. I just put it on CL for the payoff.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 07:21 AM
  #325  
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by jangles
Thanks for the replys guys. I just put it on CL for the payoff.
Good luck with the sale, and I hope you find a vehicle you are comfortable with.
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #326  
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Just read all 22 pages. Subscribed!!!

I am new to Cummins and planning to get 07.5 up and definetly do delites. Since emissions are not a problem in mother Russia. Only concern is how will it act during the cold, it gets to -40F (-40C). Anything i should before i ship the truck from US to Europe? What should i prepare for this kinds of weather? I know i will get one with block heater, what else?
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #327  
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by gtride
Just read all 22 pages. Subscribed!!!

I am new to Cummins and planning to get 07.5 up and definetly do delites. Since emissions are not a problem in mother Russia. Only concern is how will it act during the cold, it gets to -40F (-40C). Anything i should before i ship the truck from US to Europe? What should i prepare for this kinds of weather? I know i will get one with block heater, what else?
Добро пожаловать на DTR!


The cold weather will definitly need the grid heater in place. I would also consult some of our northern US members as places such as North Dakota, Minnesota, and Alaska see such temperatures.

There are insulating fronts that you can add to the grill to prevent cold airflow into the engine bay that also helps with heat loss.

Im not much help in this area, cause a cold winter for us it hitting anything below freezing for more than two days straight.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 12:50 AM
  #328  
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From: CA (SF) - Moscow (Russia)
Originally Posted by Blake Clark
Добро пожаловать на DTR!
Спасибо!


Blake are you talking about this part?



question, do everybody removes grid heater when do the deletes?

i assume it restricts the flow so that is why it gets removed.

will i have to remove grid heater permenently if i install GDP intake? or for summer install GDP Air Boss Grid Heater Delete plate and during COLD i install stock plate back on?

how does it get powered, glow plugs i assume?
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 05:44 AM
  #329  
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
That is the part that I am talking about.

You have to buy the specific grid heater delete. Just doing the intake will not remove it.

What are your power goals. Im running somewhere north of 500, and more than likely just under 600hp and I still have my grid heater in place.

If you are looking for just a well running daily driver, with a lil more spunk, Id leave it in place.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:16 PM
  #330  
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New to the site, thanks for having me.

I really don't know where to start so maybe at the beginning.
1st Dodge truck 1985, 360cu/in.
2nd was 1994 when the body style changed. Cummins diesel. At this point wish I hadn't gotten rid of it.
3rd in 2008, was hoping that this vehicle would be my last since nearing retirement.
BTW, this is the 2nd 2008, Chrysler/Dodge bought the 1st lemon back, so I got my second.

I've read and re-read this thread and please understand I don't have much mechanical savy.

I've had my first real problem with the Blutec system, in this vechicle, about a month ago. The check engine light came on, shortly thereafter what I feel was the turbo started making a loud chattering, engine wouldn't accelerate, smoke out the tail pipe. Then the infamous exhaust filter needs to regenerate. This same scenario has now occured 3 times in the last month. Filter wouldn't re-generate.

First time Chrysler calls me to inform that I'm in "the program" and that I'll incur no charge, I didn't. They did the forced re-generate, cleaned this and that and I'm on my way. That lasted about 3/4 weeks, same thing happens and it now costs me over $500 to clean egr system, replace fuel filter and clean the cvc or whatever it's called. Get truck back this past Friday and the next day the check engine light goes off for the 3rd time and soon thereafter the turbo does it's thing, minimal acceleration, then the filter needs to re-generate. Now I don't have the acceleration as I did and am afraid that the turbo charger is damaged.

I'm posting this here because I believe the blutec system is my problem. I think the dealer is doing what they can but their hands are tied. I'm scratching my head and needless to say wish I'd never gotten rid of my 94. Any advice to my concerns about the turbo would me appreciated. Thanks for listening to my rant.
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