MikeyB,
Yes I did. Very easy launches and 3rd gear lauches bog less too. This is a trick little mod.
Ron

 

OK, I will.

All this sensor does is lie to the ECM about where the pistons are, nothing more. It does not affect valve timing because the cam is a mechanical device driven off the crank. The sensor does advance injection timing. Earlier injection means more time for the fuel to burn before the exhaust valve opens, this leads to lower EGT.

 

Just got back from a little over 2200 miles of towing with the mod. MPG ranged from a low of 9.1 (loaded @ 80 mph) to 11.5 (empty @ 70 mph) Much of the trip was at 95 degrees and up to 102 degrees. My best past MPG with the same trailer loaded much lighter was 9.4 @ 70 mph. The truck ran great and pulled very well. Some of the improvement may also be from the BHAF and homemade intake tube.

As for EGTs Some of you guys get WAY lower readings than I ever have. Just driving with no trailer @ 75mph mine runs 800 - 1000 and can go to 1200 passing someone (not wide open throtle) or on a steep hill. Towing on a grade I have to slow to keep it from going past 1350 and will head higher fast if I don't back out. I have a BHAF and a straight pipe (cat has not been removed). I am sure the 315s and higher elevations don't help.

 

Blown32,
Sounds like the truck did good and picked up 2mpg.

Not sure why the EGTs is higher than RN1's truck. Wonder if the gauge is out of calibration?

MikeyB

 

I am very happy with the mileage (but still want more) when considering how had I pushed her. Hard to say just how much of the improvement was the sensor and how much the BHAF. Overall she runs better and pulls better.

I have wondered about the EGTs. They have been higher than what other people report from the first day I put the gauge in. It would be interesting to see if my higher EGTs had anything to do with lower fuel mileage compared to what some folks get

I live at about 6000' elevation so I am sure that affects EGTs and MPGs as well.

 

My wife just left on a 450-500 mile trip. No towing, but all mountian driving (going to Steamboat Springs CO). I topped of the tank before she left so I will be able to post a good empty mileage figure on monday.

 

Installed one a few days ago, so far I really haven't been able to really check it out. Road trip into Nevada next week hauling my quad. Will see then if it helps. So far I notice a smoother running motor and a little quicker throttle response off the line. Also, No need to worry about codes. It takes a lot more than two degrees, and the
engine cant't take much more than 2 deg before it starts to go downhill
performance wise. Also the cam sensor is on gears, so it's impossible to have
the two sensors match perfectly anyway, so they have a "window " of a few
degrees before it detects anything wrong. past the 2
degrees and
performance starts deteriorating (knocking) and still wont throw codes. So +2 deg is the happy spot.

Unless you have a lathe, I wouldn't do it. It is a offset cut that would require a jig to hold in the chuck.


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Rokk instructions.


ROKK technologies

Adjustable crankshaft timing sensor

Free lifetime replacement warranty

If this sensor ever fails, we will modify another one for you free of charge for as long as you own your truck. Bad sensor must be sent in as proof, and you must include $5.00 shipping and handling.

Made in USA!

Installation Instructions

Tools needed: 5mm Allen hex key, blue (removable) thread locking liquid (Locktite)

Never use red Locktite as it will require heating with a torch to remove.

Sensor is located above front-left corner of oil pan, by the toothed gear next to belt.

Depending on how your thumbs fit around the sensor, you may either first remove the bolt holding the sensor, or unplug the electrical plug.

To remove sensor: Using a 5 mm Allen hex key, remove original capscrew holding sensor to front timing cover. You may need to slide a small tube or a box end wrench over the Allen key to give you more leverage in removing it. Pull sensor sideways (it has an o-ring so it may take a little effort to slide it out).

To remove connector: Slide red locking tab ¼ inch towards front of vehicle by pushing it with your thumb from the rear of vehicle.

Squeeze connector near electrical wires to release the second locking tab, as you pull it off of sensor.

To install new sensor: Apply one drop of blue Locktite on threads of bolt.

The following procedure assumes full timing advance (recommended):

Gently insert sensor into hole and gently tighten until snug, but not tight. While pushing gently upwards and to the rear of vehicle with one hand, tighten the screw to 71 inch-pounds or 5.9 ft-lb. (Normal wrist tight. Don’t break it.)

Push connector on until it snaps in place, then slide the red tab to lock it.

Adjustment

If you are using cetane booster and you notice light knocking under some conditions, stop using cetane booster. (That should save you some money.)

You may notice during cold starts a slightly louder diesel sound. Due to the higher internal efficiency of the engine with advanced timing, it will take slightly longer for the engine to reach normal temperature (an extra minute or two of driving). Avoid long cold idling, and drive off after 30 sec. - 1 min. warm-up. If you notice a slightly louder knock than with factory timing while cold, simply press a little more on the accelerator until the knock goes away. This should only last about 30 sec to 1 minute. After that it will operate normally, except with a lot more vigor. Since not all engines are built to the same tolerances, and not all fuel is identical, you may wish to partially back off the sensor if you encounter transitional knocking at light throttle that lasts for more than one or two seconds, or during extreme cold in winter if you hear knocking that lasts for more than a second or two.

To accurately adjust the sensor, you may wish to use a caliper and back it off .020� to .040� at a time. Or, you may remove sensor and apply 3-4 layers of electrical tape cut into small squares applied only to the recessed portion of the sensor.

 

Originally posted by RonsRig,

"ROKK says that this sensor advances the timing 2 degrees. Correct me if I am wrong but that would mean 1 degree for the cam. That is, one degree longer the exhaust valve is closed and maybe taking advantage of the third injection event to make more power. Is there enough of the hot exhaust getting to the cat to burn off the deposits in it?"



I know I am just a rookie but isnt the cam driven mechanically? How would "advancing the crank timing" with the sensor advance the cam timing? The valves may be opening sooner but the injectors are electronic and they would be spraying a little sooner wouldnt they? That would certainly help a little with the low end right? Like I said I am a rookie and I might be completely wrong and if I am, I hope someone will point me in the right direction.

 

That's why I corrected him. Check my first post on this thread.

 

Adding the two degrees puts the timing where it should be. Cummins retarded the timing on these engines for emission reasons. Makes the engine run hotter.

MikeyB

 

I got mine in today and will be leaving on trip tommorow , so far it seems to work better than ROKK claimes , driving around town was way up about 4 MPG. He was great to work with, I over nighted him a sender and called him and told him I would like it before I go on my trip and he went out and got one off a freind of his who had not installed it yet to save me shiping cost and sent it out before mine had arrived our my check to him. Takes about 5 min. to install a little hard on the fingers, tight spot but I have been in tighter.

 

could this be the mpg answer?

 

I've been following this post for weeks and you have convinced me, please tell me how to get ahold of Rokk. I traced it back to TDR but his info didn't work. I want to know address, what to send, how much it'll cost, where do I get the sensor- cummins or dodge, what is the part number for a 2003. All that stuff.

Thanks

Monte

 

Contact Rokktech at www.rokktech.com
The sensor can be bought at Cummins (p/n 3408529) or from Dodge (p/n 5093101AA).
Lot's of info can be found on this forum. http://dieselram.com/cgi-bin/ultimat...9;t=003837;p=1

MikeyB

 

Wife just returned from her trip, 459 miles all mountian and a test drive by my hotrodding brother-in-law as well as passing on 2 lane above 90 mph (did I say my wife is a hotdodder as well). To be fair, some time on gravel roads and some at 70 as well.

drum roll......... 18.22 mpg hand calculated. My best tank yet (by ..5 mpg), but not a good test due to the VERY varied conditions. The fill up prior to her trip was only 130 miles, all in town and 17.1 mpg, also best in town only mileage to date (by .4 mpg).

Not huge gains but gains. That along with the better responce I am very happy with the mod.

What are others seeing with this mod????