Need a little advise from you guys running cams and springs.

How technical of a job to install cam and how long (roughly) does it take?

Can the valve springs be installed without head removal? Special tool?
When I did my studs I didn't see any way to remove springs like I use to do on my chevy stuff.
In my old gasser days we would just pump the cylinder up with air and just go through one at a time---pretty simple. Don't know about these diesels?

I was reading some old posts on the Helix cam (Don M's) it sounds as if you don't want to run big injectors with this set-up and a TST box, sounds like you lose power? or did I miss something?

I will be running a Silver Bullet when II gets them done and I am going to get a set of twins and try that too.

Thanks to all!!

Lance

 

yes the springs can be done with the head on the engine. There is no combustion chamber to speak of. All you have to do is bring the cylinder to top dead center to hold the valves up. There is a tool for compressing the valve springs. It bolts down in place of the injector and compresses all 4 at the same time.

As for the cam, it really is not that duifficult. For the first one, plan a long day or a weekend. I have done one in just under 6 hours. Of course that was after doing a couple. That was also with using the original tappets.

 

Thanks for that info, man I'm glad you don't have to pull the head!

Any idea where I can get that wonderful tool to compress the springs?

Also, any ideas on the best place to buy the cam and springs??

Thanks again,

Lance

 

Good luck with it Lance. Its definitely a job.

 

I believe the tool is a Miler tool. I will have to check on the part number for you.

Justin is right, it is an involved job, but it is fulfilling to know you did it yourself.

 

Just saw this thread in a search.... If you did not already find it... The 'Spring tool', for 24v's is a Cummins part - #3164329.
Just did mine, with head on the block, with springs from F-1..... took me 5 hrs, with new seals, working casually.
Good idea to replace valve seals also if you have over 50,000 miles on them.

RJ

 

I read in a magazine that you have to cut out the front radiator support to replace the cam. Is this true? Or do you just lift up the motor w/a cherry picker to clear the radiator support?

 

Supposedly you can do it either way. Having a welder, I opted to cut the member

 

Thanks for that part#. I haven't started the job yet, but plan to start real soon as I have my Flux 2's, Helix cam and F1 springs just waiting.

I just bought me a new sut so I can drive it while I attempt all the install myself. LOL
Sounds like its a real bear! Oh well, nothing ventured nothing gained right?

I've heard that the Helix cam doesn't add any hp, just lowers egt's, is that true? Strange?

Thanks,

Lance

 

fuel millage should increase about 2mpg give or take a little...from what I hear anyway

 

The cam will just flow more air in and out and at slightly different timing than stock. That should give you more power and torque at lower and higher rpms. While the peak in your hp and torque curve may be the same height the area under the curve will be greater. Your turbo should spool much better also and the torque won't drop off at higher rpm. Ask someone with a normal truck that has what you have if they have a before and after dyno curve. Don M has lots of this info but he keeps it to himself as he is already way too busy. ks

 

Helix Cam will... (as mentioned above)
- Lower EGT's
- Increase spool up
- Wider Power Band on both ends
- Eliminate piston float and valve contact at increased boost pressures
- Possibly improve mileage

RJ

 

The springs do that.

 

Good point .... I incorrectly listed that cause '06dmc' said he had the cam and the springs.

RJ