It was straight forward and pretty easy overall. Took about 7 hrs total but I think after I do a couple more I could do it in 4. The engine idles smoother, power comes on earlier and egts are down. I am gonna change my oil tommorrow and really test it then. You definately notice the difference the first time you step on it even with mild acceleration. I will be installing the 12v mechanical lift pump this week and will post the results with that compared to my Fass soon. Tim

 

Was it the Helix 1 and can you give an estimate to the total cost once you're finished?

 

Let us know if the MPG is any beter and what the price is. Do you have any pics on the work done to change the cam? When you replace the pump are you going to leave the lift pump is and run it like the RASP with a pressure switch. Thats what I was thinking of doing becase what else do you do with the lift pump.

 

No pictures sorry. Hardest part of the whole job was removing the front bumper really requires 2 people or a floor jack. I dont know what number helix cam I got but I'm pretty sure it is not a one. The cam is $725 for a press on model, I got the bolt on gear which is about 200 more. Will let you know about the mileage improvements if any. Tim

 

I would think you'd want a lower pressure piston lift pump, Cummins part number 3936320. Yields 14-16psi cruise/idle, low of 12psi WOT. This is the LP the 1st genners with a VE44 injection pump are converting to. The 2nd gen piston lift pump 3936316 would idle around 25psi and go way up under throttle 50psi.

I may be out of line and have no idea, if so I'm sorry. Just thinking the VP wants 14-16psi give or take. What do you guys run or what is preferred?

 

The lobe on the Helix cam has been modified from what is in a 12 valve. I would check with Don M. He said, in an earlier thread, that the pump was not a Dodge Cummins pump, but is a Cummins pump, just not the one used in a Dodge application. Here's a link to the thread:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=82970

 

Tim, how many lifters did you drop into the oil pan? I dropped two. I found that the back lifter was the most difficult part of cam install. I'm pretty impressed with my cam. Mine sound like a 12valver. I have a sport truck so its just plastic. The head that I bought didn't have any plugs or fittings in it, so after tracking down a few antifreeze leaks, shes a driver. So what kinda of numbers are you putting to the rollers bud? The mach 6 I bought off you are pretty sweet. It took awhile for the turbo to breakin, after that the smoke levels dropped off.

 

Mike I did not drop any lifters but getting the dowel in the back one was a pain. That and putting the last 6 inches of the cam into the bore were the only things that required any extra effort. I believe my lift pump is gonna put out 20-25 at idle and around 40 at wot. Waiting on my line kit and I will install it. I bought all the parts and pump from Cummins. About $150 big difference from $575 for a Fass. Tim

 

Awesome Tim! The lifters are much easier when you can just drop them in when the engine's upside-down. My stock bumper has been on and off my truck nightly when we were fabbing twins the last month. I normally did that part myself. Do you have an aftermarket bumper?

brandon.

 

I talked to a cummins mechanic here, he told me that they just take the oil pan off when installing the cam. The string method was to fustrating for them. What did you use for a tray?

Tim, I was thinking. To get your 4 hr mark for a cam change, you must be leaving the head on. On a second gen truck the firewall/cowling is abit tight to install push rods. It took me abit to figureout what the firewall plugs where for. I felt sorry for guys who do this kinda of work on a daily basis.

 

The next time I will use a 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe sawed lengthwise. Last time I spent trying to not nick the cam bearing with the steel pipe.

brandno.

 

Brandon, I found that the 2in abs wasn't big enough for the lifter to rotate into position. I had to pull the lifter out of tube and hang it by itself. I then pulled into position. It went in pretty nice that way. I found that I used my magnet a couple times to pull the lifters out of the pan. Installing the cam for the last 2 to 3inches was difficult too. I did that quite a few times lining up my injection pump. I original install the injection pump 180deg out, and the teeth marks wouldn't line-up. Now I'm a pro at the installing injection pumps, I think. So what did you think about the retainer plate for the camshaft. I keep pinching my fingers on that one. I got a magnet and head it in place.

 

The retainer is a pain in the tail. If you use the shorter tappet you can avoid alot of headaches.

The tappet length is as follows from longest to shortest:

First and 2nd gen 12 V, 2nd gen 24 V and the CR engines.

With our kit, if you buy the bolt on gear system, you get a new retainer that is pressed on between the gear and the camshaft. It stays put and wont fall off during installation.

Most guys wont need to change the tappets. They are super hard and our camshafts are even harder. We are at 51 Rockwell on the C scale. Regrinds from others are sometimes below 40 RC. The stock cam is 45-48 RC.

Don~

 

I believe that you pull the electric lift pump and bracket and bolt the mechanical one in the same spot??!!

 

Exactly right! There is a cover plate over the boss in the block. Pull the electric pump, remove the cover plate and bolt on the mech pump and supporting hoses/fuel lines.



Don~