hey man if your worried about leaks even tho the grommets should not leak if you undersize the holes..you should think about buying the GDP drawstraw it is a brass bulkhead fitting with a O-ring seal...it's pretty nice set-up....or you could use the old style airdog bulkhead fittings....

 

Any reason you couldnt put the pick up at the bottom of the tank? no "pick up tube" of course) may be a dumb Q but i gota ask....
-dru

 

I belive "cquestad" runs a bulkhead fitting on the bottom..or used to??

 

Good info on this thread guys, i've been trying to decide how i want to install an AD100 for a while now, and the cheap pricing ends this month! Gutting the stocker is a nice alternative to buying the liberty canister, nice work.

However, I'm still wondering about this issue of hot fuel or fuel with air being returned to the canister and immediatly sucked back up by the AD. My thoughts are that the majority of the fuel being returned to the canister should be coming from the AD, not hot fuel that has been through the cp3/rail, and doesn't the stock setup return "hot" fuel to the canister anyways?

The other concern i'm hearing is that the AD might have to work harder if it is sucking the fuel that is returned to the canister with all the air it just removed. Doesn't really seem like the fuel being returned from the AD would have that much excess air in it, i thought i read somewhere that entrained air in diesel rarely exceeds 10%. Still i wonder if below 1/4 tank you might end up with a hot foamy mess in the bottom of the canister? Is the modified canister still working for those of you that are running it?

 

I'm getting the AD100 which I'm going to connect to a Liberty canister because I don't really trust the draw straws with that cheesey o-ring to make a good seal, especially when the tank is full (the fuel will be higher than the canister lid) and the truck parked in the sun. The return from the engine going to the canister will keep fuel coming into the canister like it would on the jeep (I hope).
I'm going to connect the AD100 return to the filler neck or the original tank breather, the less holes in the tank the better.

 

I have an AD100 on my rig, using the Liberty canister. The stock CP3 return empties into the canister. The airdog return goes to the filler tube.

So far, it runs great!

 

COOL!

That's exactly what I wanna hear, how much pressure you getting?

 

Fisherguy, are you sure that the return from the rail/cp3 alone will have enough volume to keep the canister full? I would be worried the AD100 could suck the canister dry below 1/4 tank, i thought the amount of return fuel from cp3/rail was pretty low volume.

It was my understanding that the liberty canister workes becasue it allows you to also return the extra fuel going through the AD to canister, wich is enough volume to keep the bottom full.

 

it's a rock solid 16....but I only run the juice on level 2...I am a wimp

 

Do I know absolutely 100% for sure, I'd hafta say no...

... but Judging by what Btolenti just posted I'd hope the answer is yes.

The CP3 return does the same thing as the existing bypass from our in tank pumps, it's used to help draw fuel into the canister from what Mark (******) tells me.
I'm not doing the install for about a month, after my first fishing trip of the season, I'll let you know.

16 pounds eh? That should be plenty of fuel, especially with the ½ inch hose feeding the CP3, tons more than the 8 PSI the factory pump gives us through that little tiny line from the factory filter.

 

Not sure, but I don't have pressure problems below 1/4 tank. I just took a 700 mile round trip down and back to LA. Went down to about 1/8 of a tank and the pressure was still good. Not sure what would have happened had I had the juice on a high setting and/or I was romping on it hard.

All I know is that my setup now is WAY better than stock. More fuel, better filtration. I wish I would have done it the day I got the truck.

 

Mark, anyone, can anyone tell me if the OEM canister has tat screen across the whole entire bottom of the canister?


Or, can one get that 1/2" p/u tube down to the bottom somewhere around there?

I haven't pulled it yet, but install is getting closer and I'm thinking again.....................and that's always dangerous.

 

I did the traditional AD150 Install with Draw Straw....let it get down to the low fuel light (35 miles to empty, approx 1/16 of tank)....no stumbling or fuel delivery issues....it did drop pressure down to 0 when i stopped suddenly, but other than that, no issues....

 

yeah the OEM canister and the jeep canister both have a screen on the bottom...I am running a flexible 1/2" draw straw inside my oem canister and I left the screen on the bottom of the canister..works great for me.

 

Yes, I saw and read almost everything you've done Mark. However, I want to leave my OEM LP in the canister. Can that pickup tube get to bottom with the pump in there, or does it block access right to bottom?