He's talkin bout have the "feed" line to the AD T'd, 1 going to the factory in tank pump, the other side going to the new AD draw straw.
I think he'd need a check valve in there somewhere.


Seems kinda weird to me know aftermarket companies have come up with a cure to this whole mess.

 

I am getting my truck back this week end from the body shop (after 6 weeks) and I cant wait to put my Air Dog on, its been sitting the whole time. I have no clue which way to install it.
I like the revised way using the cup much better, but are we sure its the best way so far? I am concerned with the suction line not really going down as far as the the straw would if it was not in the cup. Not a big deal?

 

I should have mine back by Friday with the Liberty Canister installed with the 1/2" Draw Straw and will report back ASAP!!! I am dropping the truck off with less than 1/4 tank, so we will see!!!!????

 

yeah I think you would need a check valve of some sort???

it's hard to say...I have had other guys tell me they have done something similar to mine and not had problems....but member "2007 5.9" did have problems....unless he was there to watch his installer we really dont know what he did or did not do...I have yet to see a "0psi" reading since I modded my canister..
I wondered about the drawstraw being slightly higher..but for me it does not seem to be a problem.

yes please do chime back in and let us all know how it's going.
this is ALL good info for the masses

 

The flexible suction tube most likely does sit slightly higher inside the canister. I don't think it's a problem though. You're drawing fuel through the bottom of the canister and also have your return line filling the cup. If you have fuel in the tank probably down to a gallon or 2 you should be able to keep the canister full.

Now since I said 2 gallons think about that same amount of fuel spread out inside the tank. 2 gallons is 462 cu. in. of fuel, we'll say the tank is 60"x12" so 720 sq. in. that would make about 5/8" of diesel resting on the bottom of the tank (lil more than that really).

So you have fuel 5/8" deep sloshing around in there think of the drawstraw in it's fixed position sucking air every chance it gets. Now you imagine every time that fuel sloshes around it gets sucked into the cup which is larger and has a much better chance of grabbing some of that fuel that would be getting by the drawstraw. Plus you are refilling it with, and this is a to some of the guys here, the return fuel which also aids in keeping the cup full. The reason some guys don't like the return fuel in the cup is because they say it's hot fuel. I'll let someone else explain that. Doesn't bother me, but like you said is it the best way?

And as 53willy's mentioned some guys have no trouble at all below a 1/4 tank of fuel. I do think it should be mentioned though that most of the guys never had a problem with going below a 1/4 tank of fuel before installing an aftermarket pump. And I think that is due to having a canister or reservoir inside of the tank (better design?). Could also be because there was less fuel moving through the lines with the stock lift pumps. And one more reason could be some have smaller tanks?

So I wanted to answer bullrider's question then I started writing and all of a sudden I was on a campaign to ban drawstraws
It also made me realize why I am able to go down to E and have my distance to empty on the overhead say 0 miles and still be able to hammer it uphill and on the flats.

I remember when I was getting a lot closer to buying my AD150 I started doing some searches and started finding the 1/4 tank issue threads. That thought got me typing trying to explain the problem and a solution (there are several I'm sure).

Maybe someone can start a new thread and devote it to solutions to the 1/4 tank issue's. Get the info. condensed I guess.

And I am aware that a guy could just keep the tank full, but sometimes you get way out some where and being able to use that fuel is nice.

More guys need to use the drawstraw in the canister method and report in on it so we can eventually get to the point where it is tried and true.

I think that is the longest post I've ever made.

 

Okay, I've been following all these threads, now I see that the drawstraw actually just pushes through a grommet meant for the tank. I always thought it was some kinda "through hull" fitting, but you can see below it's just a friction fit with the grommet:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...2%84%A2/Detail

So, since we all have the vent mod on our tanks we're actually pumping diesel up into the "expansion chamber" of the tank which is higher than the canister. Now I'm worried about leaking fuel there, especially since ****** had a leak there. What happens when we fill up then park in the sun, how well does that grommet seal on the draw straw?

Maybe I worry too much, but I only wanna do this once...

 

Can't help you out there FISHERGUY but good question. Aren't these tanks vented or am I still living in the past on that one?

Anyway, I am going for the cup mod. We need more reports on it anyway as mentioned so I will contribute. However, I plan on cutting a whole in the bed and making a removable access panel. With the tool box and the stacks and the air system from the tool box to under the bed, its too much work. If I just cut an access panel in it will be easy to work on if needed AND I can do the job without the misses even knowing what I'm doing.

 

Cool, take pics and let us see yours!

Thety're vented alright, the vent is on the lower part, that's why it takes so long to fill the tank right up, the cure for that is moving the vent to the upper part of the tank, might wanna do that while you're "in the area".

 

if you undersize the grommet holes they should not leak....it's the same grommet as what I had on my tank and the tank is thicker plastic then the canister lid that why you need to undersize the holes...my grommet never leaked when I had it set up the other way..it only leaked this time cause I did not undersize one of the holes...other then that it should not be a problem..

 

FWIW, the only 1/4 tank issues I am seeing are on the larger tanks and with the AD150's. The FASS's we have installed seem fine, mine included. For the one problem truck that starves going down a steep hill, we are going to try the Jeep Cannister and see how that plays.

Only thing I can figure is that the 150 moves so much fuel that its sucking the canister dry, despite return fuel going there and despite the extra holes in the sides of the canister to promote filling. It definitely proves that the 34 gallon tank isnt baffled very well!

 

I would not recommend drilling holes in the side of the canister...they need to be on the bottom of the canister....I drilled only 5 holes the same size as the flapper holes and I drilled them on the bottom of the canister but placed them toward the sides so fuel is not forced out of the canister when you take off or slow down.
my megacab tank is 34 gallons and I dont have any troubles with the canister mod.....my megacab tank does have a big baffle in the middle of the tank tho.

 

I have the same setup on the bottom of the canister, the side holes were a result of a theory that the basket was draining too fast and the fuel couldn't pour in quickly enough or that the level was too low. Not sure that was wrong, as it helped eliminate fluctuation in normal driving, but we still have the downhill issue.

 

Hmmmm, I wonder if I should drill any additional holes at all in the bottom when I do mine? Anyone have a picture of the bottom of the Liberty unit?


How does it get it's fuel in the Jeep if there's no pump drawing it in?
It must just get in by the factory holes, how many are there?
(my head hurts)

 

You're not the only one. So far, I think it's a good thing that I haven't had the time to do this yet. Hopefully some definitive information gets posted shortly.

 

didn't get a picture of my liberty unit....but basically the bottom has a whole bunch of small holes....looks like a screen....

try here....

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=liberty