Bad Ramer Jamer

I got one of those darn quick connect fitting's leaking on me. It's the lower line coming out of the radiator. There's a short peice of hose that the quick connector is on, can I cut that off and do away with the connector. What I'm worried about is leak's and pressure. Has anybody done this. Thank's.

TAS05CTD610

See I told you the fitting you used wouldn't leak

For your fix, I would go find a piece of hydrolic hose. Like used on log splitters ect, it can handle a ton of pressure, or at the least some high pressure fuel tubing. That will hold for now, use 2 clamps per side, and you should be good. Honistly I would buy a new line when time permits. Did you put the quick conecter on yourself, or is this a stock thing?? I'm trying to get info on my truck as well. You do have yourself one nice rig. (you just can't keep the tranny fluid it it, can you )

Bad Ramer Jamer

Boy, ya just gotta poke me in the eye with a sharp stick.

Actually, this is a factory connector leaking. I thought it was the o-ring inside the quick connect, but now I think it's where the line was crimped onto the quick connector. Where ever it's coming from, ,,,it's a leak.

The problem I'm having now is I can't get a hose over the lip on the line comming out of the radiator. I tried a hydrolic and power sterring hose. It has to be rated for trani fluid or it will eat the rubber. I'm going to see if a new line has the same fitting, if so, they can keep it. Check your's. You'll be surprised at how loose they are.

My only other option is to cut off the lip on the line and use a compression fiting on it. That's what the sell for repair kit's in the auto part's store's. Only problem is no one has it in 1/2". But you know how nervouis I am about compression fitting's. So, I was going to see what our freind's at McMaster has to offer.

Crimedog

I agree, I wouldn't use a compression fitting. I used JIC fittings (same as compression ecept it has a double crimp) for my trans temp gauge and after a year or so they finally started to rattle loose and allow fluid to seep out. I used Napa heater hose for my aux. cooler, it has held up just fine for a couple years, no signs on the inside of being eaten away, and it's rated for 250 PSI, which is plenty. Did I mention the hose was cheap, too?

Bad Ramer Jamer

Ya, that's what McMaster fitting's are, double swag, or something like that. I came up with them for our trani temp gauge's. Ok,,,Ok. Before Tas start's having a hissy fit,,,,he came up with them.

TAS05CTD610

"Double Swag or something like that" that right there says who came up with it

And yes the fitting we use are double clamp construction. If it dosn't vibrate loose on a Buldozer, it ain't going to on my truck.

I do believe I know what fitting your talking about, right over the drivers side frame rail? By the shock tower?? I'll have to check them now that you said something. Are you still under warrenty?? You can buy kits that will clamp back onto the rubber hose. Mcmaster should have them. if not Grainger.com will have them too (pricey though) They have quick connecters for high pressure (kinda like for air tools) that you could use for your tranny flush. Plus there double seal disconects, so when you undo them they don't leak. We use them for our Cryovessle freezing, 1.5" about 6,000 dollars each (that's for the good stainless FDA grade) but you can get steel for cheep. You got a picture of this fitting? Maybe we can give more advice.

Sorry about the tranny fluid joke, I know it's gotta be getting expensive for you.

TAS05CTD610

Without seeing your fitting, I'm not 100% sure of what you want, but here are some ideas.

If you want to cut your rubber hose, you can use something like this, it's a fitting with a barb. hose goes over barb, there's a crimp that goes over the hose, and then there's a nut you screw on, this compreses the hose on the barb



Then there's fittings like we used for the transmission. One that clamps onto the aluminum, then you can use a barb and a clamp. They have fuel injection clamps that really compress good, won't leak.

Or go to Mcmaster and type in this number 5929K56

Use that to clamp onto the pipe, then use a 3/8" to whatever the inner diameter of the hose is, use a good clamp. There's a lot of options, give me some pictures and I'll get you the fitting

And I don't work for Mcmaster, we just spend millions of dollars a year on fittings from them, so I've seen a lot. They even have some (keep this a secret) that are instant connect. You just push the tube in, no bolts nothing, and there rated for 250psi. To take it off you push a collet and off it comes. This is one high tech redneck.

Bad Ramer Jamer

Man, I've been going through internet withdrawl's. My modem has been down for 2 day's.

So anyway. The hose end is not the problem. It's a 1/2" hose barb. The problem is where the quick connect clip's onto the lip on the line going to the radiator. Actually, it goes to another cooler in front of the radiator. I'll have to cut that lip off, I just hate to. I put some pic's in my gallery. Waiting for approval.

If you look at the close up of the connector, you can see a second lip. There's another lip inside the connector just like that one that will have to be cut off.

What I need, is to go from 1/2"" compression, to 1/2" barb. I think I can get a male thread to barb fitting. What would be great is a fitting that was compression on one end, and female thread's on the other. Otherwise I'll just have to use a straight 1/2" compression, and put a line in it. But then I'll have to flare it, or something so the hose will hold onto it. I've seen the repair kit's with a short piece of tubbing that has a small lip for the hose, But I can't find a 1/2" one.

Well, there's my order. I'll be impressed if you come up with that.

SafeHarbor

BRJ, I can sympathize. My internet service went out on a Saturday and they didn't fix it until Monday. I telecommute to work, so this really had me worried. Can we, in this day and age, call the internet an "essential service?" Without it, I'm on sick days or vacation.

Bad Ramer Jamer

Ok, here's a pic. BTW. The connector is right next to the bottom of the washer fluid jug. And, just so you know. I came up with the coonector. So what it was right under the part # you gave me. J/K of course. I couldn't have found it with out you.

It's part # 5929K57. Now I just have to see if I can find the threaded to barb fitting to go with it. I don't know if that would be a NPT thread or not. Do you. BTW, I really do appriciate all your wisdom and help.

Bad Ramer Jamer

Wow, I guess it's true. That say alot of stuff you see on Star Trek really happen's.

TAS05CTD610

Yes I'm familliar with those fittings, and there basically a cheeper way to make something fail faster. Those suck

Your part number will work as well as this one from mcmaster
5929K56

Watch with Pipe thread as they will be very big. I.E. a 3/4" pipe thread measures about 1 inch, so I would say to go with the 3/8"s NPT x 1/2 yor lok fitting. This is about what our senders would be. The part number above is the 1/2" pipe yor lok to 3/8" NPTF NPT = National Pipe Thread, F = Female. So the barb you would need would either be 1/2 barb to 1/2 NPT (if there is no F on the end, it's supposed to be Male) Or you can do 1/2 barb to 3/8" NPT. If you look at the drawings you'll find the 3/8" pipe thread inner diameter is still bigger than 1/2" inch, you won't have a flow problem.


Personally I would do this:

5929K56 (1/2"yor lok by 3/8" NPT) This clamps on the 1/2 line and provides a 3/8"s female thread

5350K66 This is a 3/8"s Male pipe thread to 1/2" barb. it's thick walled for higher pressure. (still use a hose clamp)

Plus a Quart or two of fluid (not saying anything)

That's what I would put in my taco. Mcmaster is a great site, but it's very hard to go through as they have too much stuff. You could litteraly do anything. I'm actually looking at making a fuel pressure isolater for about 20 bucks in parts, vrs. the 100 that people sell them for. Very simple idea that will be identical to the ones they sell. Ok I'm using stainless steel instead of aluminum but I don't think people would mind.

Any questions let me know. I also love there shipping, it's literally there in a day or two.

Tom

Bad Ramer Jamer

Well Tom, ya want to hear something funny. I think the darn thing quite leaking. There's a couple of thing's that could of happened. I looked inside the fitting to try and see the o-ring, and it looked pretty dirty in there so I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and a Q-tip. That may have fixed it. I also had the line pointing up so fluid wouldn't run out. I think maybe some ran back around the crimp and has slowly been running out, and that may have been what I thought was a leak. Anyway, it doesn't seem to be leaking now. I'm going to give the whole area a good cleaning and keep my eye on it.

And ya, I guess I gotta give you credit for this too. By you asking for a pic, I looked at the close up and didn't see any fluid, hence no leak. I just don't know what I would do with out you. I'll keep you posted

TAS05CTD610

Now I'm helping you fix something that wasn't broken??? All that time.

Hey at least it was dirty from using your truck. It's another if it broke and was a show truck. Those fittings are just like the quick connect fuel fittings. Just a small o ring and press on. The "high quality" ones can hold an insane amount of pressure by just pushing them on, no fitting. But these arn't that good. I still have to check mine later. I calked my tool box handle (was leaking) and no, now it's sleeting and raining so it looks like I'll be working on that again this weekend. Stuipd rhode Island.

Glad I could help. Sometimes it's like at work, when my friend has a computer problem, I just watch his screen and it works fine, sometimes having an answer scares the problem away