FCA, need to know something...
FCA, need to know something...
...what the heck is it?? I have another thread going about my no start issue, and someone mentioned FCA. Well, i asked what it was, and no one told me what it is. So, I figure start another thread dedicated to the FCA. So, what in the heck is a FCA, and how could it possibly cause a "no start" issue?
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Frozen Northern Minnesota, Darn Close To Where Perma-Frost Begins...
Do a search on the FCA (Fuel Control Actuator). There has been volumes written on it here. A defective or weak FCA has caused everything from, no start, slow start, to acne.....
The FCA is an electronically controlled solenoid valve. The ECM controls the amount of fuel that enters the high-pressure pumping chambers by opening
and closing the FCA based on a demanded fuel pressure. It is located on the left side of the CP3 pump.
and closing the FCA based on a demanded fuel pressure. It is located on the left side of the CP3 pump.
OK, thanks guys for the info. Yeah, I had/still have a no start issue, and a guy had mentioned the FCA as a potential problem. No, here is where we stand (and Im gonna add to my other thread as well):
No start, perfect crank, just no compression, so figured no fuel, check TST rail pressure during crank, NO rail pressure during crank, use starting fluid (Yes, I know I know I know) and truck fires right off. Now, I had been running my TST. I got check engine light. Crankshaft position sensor. Well, about that time, is when I had turned my settings WAY down on the TST (no rail pressure, level 3/2, Standard) and I replaced teh crankshaft position sensor. Well, for a week, everything has been fine. Has been starting PERFECT. No problems. Well, last night, feeling pretty comfortable, I turn my rail pressure up to level 4, put on TT05, levels 4/4 and I run it for 10/15 minutes. Get to where I am supposed to be. Truck sets for 30 minutes. Go to start it. NOTHING. Just cranks. No rail pressure. Use starting fluid, fires right off and runs fine. Temps had gotten cold again.
Now, the ONLY things that have remained the same when my truck has a no start:
1)Temp has been 40* or colder (when it warmed up, I had no problems, however, I was also running around with my TST turned down)
2)My TST power levels and rail pressure had been turned up. (when turned down, have had no problems, but weather was also warmer)
Those are now the only 2 things that have been the same during a no start. I am thinking that something with the TST is causing the problem. Guys?
No start, perfect crank, just no compression, so figured no fuel, check TST rail pressure during crank, NO rail pressure during crank, use starting fluid (Yes, I know I know I know) and truck fires right off. Now, I had been running my TST. I got check engine light. Crankshaft position sensor. Well, about that time, is when I had turned my settings WAY down on the TST (no rail pressure, level 3/2, Standard) and I replaced teh crankshaft position sensor. Well, for a week, everything has been fine. Has been starting PERFECT. No problems. Well, last night, feeling pretty comfortable, I turn my rail pressure up to level 4, put on TT05, levels 4/4 and I run it for 10/15 minutes. Get to where I am supposed to be. Truck sets for 30 minutes. Go to start it. NOTHING. Just cranks. No rail pressure. Use starting fluid, fires right off and runs fine. Temps had gotten cold again.
Now, the ONLY things that have remained the same when my truck has a no start:
1)Temp has been 40* or colder (when it warmed up, I had no problems, however, I was also running around with my TST turned down)
2)My TST power levels and rail pressure had been turned up. (when turned down, have had no problems, but weather was also warmer)
Those are now the only 2 things that have been the same during a no start. I am thinking that something with the TST is causing the problem. Guys?
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Have you tried removing the TST from the truck? I would try that just to remove it as a possibility. Also as bradler has said it could be a popped relief valve. You could remove the valve banjo and tap the center of the banjo for a 1/8" pipe plug and re-install with a plug in it.
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