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FCA Bolt Removal 2 are stripped need advice Please

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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:18 PM
  #1  
Sittingbull2's Avatar
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From: Vidor, Texas
FCA Bolt Removal 2 are stripped need advice Please

First off let me say I have removed the FCA previously when i had to put a new one in. No problem busting the bolts loose. I got a hold of some more bad fuel. Truck ran bad and I figured this time I would drop tank clean it out and put a fuel water separator on the truck before the AIRDOG and replace the FCA valve again. Well this time I have 2 of the 3 25 Torx boltheads strip. How do you bust them loose. It's the Top one looking down from the motor and the Bottom one looking up from underneath the truck. Any help is much appreciated.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 10:32 PM
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From: Long Island, NY
Check out the "Cold start woes" post which is a few down from your post.

The text below came from that string and is a pretty straight forward solution:

"Just a couple weeks ago I finally got around to replacing the FCA on the CP3 pump. Wish they would mention that the stock bolts are Torx heads and loc-tite'd in like nobody's business. had to use the dremmel tool to cut a slot in the heads and use a screwdriver bit on a ratchet to get two of them out after they stripped."
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 11:59 PM
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From: Waconia, MN
I'd do what Kaysee recommended.
I had a similar problem on a common rail ISL and the next time I had to take a FCA out I used a punch on the center of the screws and gave them a good tap with a hammer and they came out fine.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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From: Tomball, Texas
I shocked the bolts with a drift and a hammer before removing.

MikeyB
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:19 AM
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From: Alberta
Not going to help you now, but you can get impact torx bits that work with an impact wrench (3/8 or 1/2 drive). Make sure the torx head is properly cleaned out, use a scribe and air. Select the right bit, a size down will fit and may seem right, but will have too much play.

Torx and allen drive screws and bolts, why they use them in some applications is beyond me. I replaced the torx bolts on my front drive shaft with hex head after I got them out. Silly place to use them.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Kaysee got to this before me, but the quote he put up was mine and be sure you're careful with the dremmel tool if you use one. I also pulled the inner fender-well to get better access. If you go through T&C diesel he'll send new bolts that are "Allen" heads with the new FCA. You could even go to the hardware store and get good bolts to put back in.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeyB
I shocked the bolts with a drift and a hammer before removing.

MikeyB

This is solid advice.

For situations like this I do the above first, if no luck then I take a heat gun on medium heat and heat the housing boss. They come right out after that.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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Sittingbull2's Avatar
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From: Vidor, Texas
Originally Posted by MikeyB
I shocked the bolts with a drift and a hammer before removing.

MikeyB
I did wack em with a drift and hammer no go. But I will put some heat on it and probably cut a slot in it. What about Craftsmen screw extractor or something similar you think might work before i put a slot on them? Oh and BTW thanks yall for the help and advice.

MTB1982 I did pull the inner fender out but dummy me it was after it stripped I will be working like that for now on though. Thanks
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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A screw extractor or something like that could work if you have the room to get in there. Also, you could try using vice grip pliers to lock on and break them free.
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