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Ok guys so I have a 2005 3500 6spd with 76k miles on it. Three weeks ago I swapped my 22.5 Alcoa wheels on it so I took my Hypermax programmer into it to adjust the tire size and noticed it was stating I had two codes (PO483 and P2509). Both are pointing to a fan clutch issue. So I looked around and ordered a replacement clutch fan assembly from Napa (part # TEM 281671 for $230). I didn't get a chance to install with being busy at work and due to taking the truck out without any issue. Here is what has me baffled. The truck has never had the CEL in the dash come on. This weekend I took the truck out towing my 7k pound camper in 90*+ heat and still the CEL didn't come on. Now with the symptoms. With the AC on the truck will run just a hair over the middle on the gauge but the biggest red flag is the AC itself. It doesn't blow cold air at all on the p-side and just slightly cold on the driverside. I know its sounds made up but the d-side vents do still blow cool air while the p-side blows flatout warm air. I tried my best to see if I could hear the fan clutch kick on or off and couldn't hear it come on. Here is the real puzzle. Even after driving it around last week not towing and putting 200 miles towing my camper in the high temps the previously mentioned codes never came back. Honestly if the truck didn't have AC issues you would almost think there was no issues at all. Now I know what most will say. Go ahead and install the clutch fan. Reading others with similar issues I think if the fan was faulty that the truck would be throwing a CEL especially with the close to 100* temps we have. I read others had similar symptoms with a faulty relay. Before I pull the clutch fan and potentially hurt my radiator or something I thought I would ask others for recommendations first. Does anyone know the location of the low speed fan relay or its part # so I can try replacing it first? Did anyone else who had the exact same symptoms have luck fixing with a new low speed fan relay? Please let me know as we have another weekend camping trip coming up this coming weekend. Thank you. Below is the truck in question.
Thanks in advance for any and all helpful information RAM
Fwiw, my 06 did the same thing. I didn't know I had a fan clutch issue, no real changes in temp and ran fine. My complaint was the a/c wasn't cold so I took it to an a/c shop and they diagnosed the fan clutch. When the shop ran water across the condenser the a/c temp changed. I also did not hear any fan clutch noise but after changing the clutch the a/c was cold again and I can now hear the fan roar as it cycles.
I don't have any first-hand experience with this problem, but I have heard from others that aftermarket fan clutches will not do the same job as OEM...Caveat emptor......Ben
Guys I went ahead and swapped the fan clutches. Sadly it didn't fix my AC issue. I didn't drive the truck, I just started it under the carport I keep it under and tried the AC. Here is a better description of what is going on. My wife described it to me. I should have given more information. I really only drive this truck to tow my camper in the Spring/Summer as my wife didn't want to ride in my 1st gen. So this truck only moves a few times a year. Hence why its mileage is so low. I bought it in Feb of 2013 with 71k miles on it and it currently has 76k miles on it. So with that now stated back to my wife's input. She feels that on possibly the last camping trip 2years ago (we didn't go camping last year due to building a home) that she noticed that her vents weren't blowing cold air. Fast forward to this years camping trips and sure enough. Even after replacing the fan clutch when I start the AC my side does blow noticeably cold air but her side (p-side) starts off cool and almost immediately gets warm. I cant say with 100% certainty that the D-side is down to the temp its supposed to be but it does feel cold and stays cold. Now yesterday driving it around central PA I am certain my vents would start cold but fluxuate temp warm and cold while the P-side would get almost warm. So as weird as this sounds what in the world would cause the driverside vents to blow cold air but the p-side to blow warm?
Do you have dual-control temperature slides?...One for driver and one for passenger?......Ben
Not to my knowledge. I tried regular vent discharge (face), foot discharge, both feet and face and the temps were vastly different. Now when I put it in defrost a difference in temp from the D-side to the P-side wasn't present. But only in defrost. Is there baffles inside the HVAC duct that are electronically controlled that aren't opening or closing to provide cool air to her vents? If so why do they blow the same air pressure as my side, just warm air though?
I had an issue with my AC blowing warm on Pass. side while still cool on drivers. It happened a number of times and I was able to get it to balance by adding refrigerant. During my recent trip to AZ, it happened again. After a day or so, the drivers side also quit cooling. The shop I took it to said the compressor wasn't working correctly. I had them put a new kit in, including compressor, lines, condenser, etc. and now it cools just fine. I should note that it was up to 116*F in Yuma while we were there.
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,256
Likes: 207
From: Central Mexico.
No idea about the 2005's, but the earlier models were notorious for losing freon and the passenger vents blowing cold. Top up the freon, keeping the pressures on the high side and everything works fine. On my truck have checked for leaks (except under the dash) numerous times and have never found any, but still need to top up the freon every couple of years, Another symptom of low freon is the A/C freezing on long trips. For as long as I have owned this truck have had the same problem. While it was still under warranty the dealer worked on it a few times but could never find a problem. All they did was top up the freon. I know now that whoever is sitting in the right seat that if they tell me that the vent is blowing warmer air that I need to top up the gas. For years now, when this happens, I just go to Autozone (or similar) and buy a small can of freon and top the system up. After that it as always worked perfectly again.
Mexstan does our trucks have to have a specific version with a specific PAG equivalent? I have added R12 to my 1st gen years ago and it wasn't specific at all. Would a big can of Becool or Sub-Zero synthetic AC booster work (one with a gaugev in its hose) or should I just get a small can with a puncture hose (with no gauge in the hose)? Is all R134a the same? Sorry for all the questions. I just want to get the correct thing and not put something in that would lock up my compressor or something
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,256
Likes: 207
From: Central Mexico.
No idea about the PAG. All I have done repeatedly in the past is just use the regular R134a and a cheap hose with a temperature gauge and dumped the can into the system. The A/C purists will no doubt be horrified, but so far this has always worked for me and is a cheap and easy fix.
Mexstan I added a can of ACPro refrigerant this afternoon and it did the trick. Both sides now are blowing ice cold. I wish I would have added the refrigerant before swapping the fan clutch Sun. I haven't driven the truck but maybe towing the camper in the 88* heat this weekend I will see a slightly cooler running temp towing in the mountains of WVa. Last weekend it was close to 100* but not really any mountains in central PA to speak of and the trucks temp gauge was running slightly above the middle mark. When I wasn't towing it was running right on the middle mark. Thank you