I finally tracked down what was making the "clunk" sound when i go over bumps. The problem is i have no idea what it is. It can't be stock it looks way too flimsy to be there from the factory. In pic 1 and 2 you can see the lever and the little strut (looks like a strut from a trunk lid or hatch). The lever is connected to something that has a brake line connected to it. the other end is connected to the axle.

Pic 1
Pic 2

Pic 4,5 and 7 you can see what the lever is attached to better. The strut is totally loose and can easially come off the lever thus causing a most annoying clunk.

Pic 4
Pic 5
Pic 7

Pic 3 and 6 show the connector that is on the axle where the brake lines connect to. There is a rubber hose (like an air hose) that comes off the top and extends to just under the bed. Pic 6 shows the end of it.

Pic 3
Pic 6

What is that thing there for? When there is weight in the bed the strut would force the lever up so i dont know what it is there for. Can i safely remove the stupid strut? Also it looks like that brake connector on the axle is leaking. Can I safely eliminate that or is it suposed to be there?

 

I believe thats the load sensor for the brakes. If thats what it is, it makes the rear brakes come on earlier when a load is on the back of the truck(ie, trailer).

By the way, those are some nice clear pics!!

 

That's the porportioning valve for the rear brakes. Like DZLPWR said, it makes the rear brakes apply harder as more weight is placed on the rear axle. Guys who have had problems with weak rear brakes have eliminated the valve, either by disconnecting the strut and and securing the lever all the way up or by replumbing the rear brakes. The only drawback to this is you have full rear brakes even when empty, which can make it "touchy". The "air hose" is the axle vent tube, don't ask me why they run it through the brake connector. Probably saved 'em $.05 per truck. Obviously you need to fix the leak. Making the valve operational is up to you, but for right now you should at least secure the lever in the full "up" position so you have rear brakes.

 

To eliminate the function of the valve, disconnect the link, tie wrap the lever to the body of the valve. That will be in the open position.

 

Some guys have the cut lever and threaded it and put a turn buckle on it so they can adjust it. Just another suggestion.

 

My wife's 2000 is doing the same thing... Since we dont tow with this or even carry heavy loads with it..would there be a problem with taking this loose???

Rick

 

There is a TSB on this issue and the conditions for removing it.

 

Haulin,

Do you have a copy of the TSB?

 

No but it was on Geno's and it was discussed on this board a year or two ago. May be a copy if you do a search.

 

This was me, and I put the turnbuckle into the rod to make it adjustable. Now I can increase length a bit to get a bit more rear brakes without the touchy feeling of a fully up proporioning lever. (It annoyed me in the rain, rears were grabbing)

AlpineRAM

 

I always wondered what caused that grabbing during wet conditions!