A/C Problems
#16
Registered User
Ok I think I understand it better. The adapter and motor "appeared" ok when removed, I even opened the housing and the gears looked ok. I will have someone adj the temp from cold-hot and make sure it's working. When the issue happens, you can definitely hear a mode door close...and then heat and yes a slight change in the fan noise. Thanks for the ideas..will ck things again tonight.
#17
Registered User
I've come to the conclusion it's a vac line. When I let off the throttle sometimes I hear one of the doors close and then hot air. Now to find which one it is and the bad vac line.
#18
Registered User
Try running on just AC not max ac, this will ensure the recic door stays open to outside air and no vacuum applied. The recirc door is the ONLY vacuum door that can possibly effect the temperature. If it was a vacuum loss then the air would start blowing from the defroster vents.
One thing I might add is to ensure that the rubber seal and "L" shaped foam seal between the hood and the firewall is still in place if not hot air from the engine compartment will be drawn in and if the recirc door was losing vacuum then the temp could change when the door opened.
One thing I might add is to ensure that the rubber seal and "L" shaped foam seal between the hood and the firewall is still in place if not hot air from the engine compartment will be drawn in and if the recirc door was losing vacuum then the temp could change when the door opened.
#19
Registered User
Busboy...I appreciate all the ideas. I know the rubber seal is still in place but will ck the foam one. I've been running it on max and haven't noticed the "thud or clunk" noise of a door closing but will try "just AC" mode to ck this again.
#20
Registered User
So the prob is that the blend door -or- the motor that controls it just keeps turning, I watched it. So does that mean the blend door is broken at this point? I'm confused b/c when I removed the motor I could turn the door left/right. So it's either the motor stripped out but it barely turns or?
I removed the a/c switch and pulled the medium size plug this eliminated power to this motor and the blend door seemed to stay closed when testing. I'll drive and confirm in the 105* heat tom. Would it be the switch?
I removed the a/c switch and pulled the medium size plug this eliminated power to this motor and the blend door seemed to stay closed when testing. I'll drive and confirm in the 105* heat tom. Would it be the switch?
#21
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Diamondhead, Mississippi
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Were you able to find a fix? Same thing going on with my truck. Just ordered and awaiting the Heater Treater mod. Hope it works.
Glad the A/C is working fine but working on getting the heater running for winter time.
Glad the A/C is working fine but working on getting the heater running for winter time.
#22
Registered User
the motor that controls it just keeps turning
#24
Registered User
Its African hot here and working on it hasn't been a priority. I unplugged the small blend door switch behind the main controller in the dash. This has kept the blend door from moving and it's blowing ice cold. Thanks to my "cracked to $hit dash" repair and replacement this fall s/b easier.
#25
Registered User
#26
Thanks,unpluged the switch and jumped it still nothing put gauges on last night and low side was about 110 and high side was about 125 took and tried to turn compressor clutch but could not move.
#27
Registered User
If you can't turn the compressor at all I'll bet it's locked up. When you turn the a/c switch on does the comp engauge at all? You can jumper the high/low switch to ck it and/or apply 12v+ to the compressor to force it to engauge. If this doesn't work then it's beyond my knowledge to troubleshoot. Hopefully Busboy will chime in.
#28
Registered User
Yeh, if you can't turn the compressor by hand then it's seized, are you 100% sure you can't turn it? If it seized cleanly then you may be OK but chances are it didn't and chewed itself up. At the very least you will need to replace the clutch and compressor, the fixed orifice tube and the dryer/accumulator, flush it evacuate and recharge, don't forget to add the correct amount of oil to the system depending on what you do. I say the clutch also because if you have power (12v) at the compressor and the compressor is seized then the belt would have burnt off, so if the belt is still there then the clutch didn't engage and is toast.
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