Problems problems problems
10-11-2011, 11:13 AM
#1
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Problems problems problems
Okay I need to either buy a new different truck o fix mine. Here is a list of what it needs to the best of my knowledge
It needs 4 front ball joints brakes need some help the front passenger side one has something wrong with it forget what was quoted 1000$ to fix it
and the back ones are seeping one of my u joints is gone or my tranny is almost done my overdrive doesn't like to kick in I think the power steering box is starting to leak on me and I aint sure but I might have some burnt valves I am 18 and I can only afford to And I know there are a few dumb questions in there but please bear with me.
I really need the answers so thanks
It needs 4 front ball joints brakes need some help the front passenger side one has something wrong with it forget what was quoted 1000$ to fix it
and the back ones are seeping one of my u joints is gone or my tranny is almost done my overdrive doesn't like to kick in I think the power steering box is starting to leak on me and I aint sure but I might have some burnt valves I am 18 and I can only afford to And I know there are a few dumb questions in there but please bear with me. I really need the answers so thanks
10-11-2011, 11:44 AM
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Fix it. If you're only 18 anything you can afford will just have a different set of problems that need to be fixed.
I don't have a 2wd so I can't comment on the ball joints, but the brakes and U-joints are easy driveway repairs and usually not too pricey. We'll need some more specific info on the trans to help you figure that out, but there is a cheap fix for the OD jumping in and out - search 'TPS fix' and find the thread about potentiometers.
Seals are available for the steering gear, and I'd be suprised if you have burned valves but they may need adjustment, also in the sticky.
So, don't give up and bail, but if you do call me and I'll come haul it away for you.
I don't have a 2wd so I can't comment on the ball joints, but the brakes and U-joints are easy driveway repairs and usually not too pricey. We'll need some more specific info on the trans to help you figure that out, but there is a cheap fix for the OD jumping in and out - search 'TPS fix' and find the thread about potentiometers.
Seals are available for the steering gear, and I'd be suprised if you have burned valves but they may need adjustment, also in the sticky.
So, don't give up and bail, but if you do call me and I'll come haul it away for you.
10-11-2011, 11:55 AM
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Well my main thing is cause I don't have a shop at present to rip it all apart I really don't want to do it bymyself without someone in the know I would do the work myself just could use an experienced fellow ctd owner pointing out what to do and how to do it and what not to do and with the transmission it clunks real hard when you put it into reverse and when I hit about 50 miles an hour the od should kick in but instead the truck revs and then sorta powers out and only after numerous attempts can you get it to shift up at which point it is all good but to get it to shift up is a pain!
10-11-2011, 12:11 PM
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Well, if you 'ain't sure', I probably wouldn't worry about it.
Let's start at the top:
Ball Joints are a bit of a pain (as a general rule), but they aren't too terrible. There are great write-ups on the ball joints and a lot of the big parts stores will lend you the ball joint presses needed to do it. Ball joints are also generally a pretty inexpensive fix. My truck doesn't have any, so I can't tell you how much or how hard, exactly, but...
Brakes are easy, and any car with a few miles on it needs brakes after a while. Also generally not too expensive, and usually the replacements get a lifetime warranty.
u joints are easy as pie, and inexpensive. $25 should get you a new uJoint...less at a big box store for some chinese stuff.
Why do you say your tranny is done? Have you checked the fluid? Is it red? up to the line? does it smell burnt? OD is generally not the tranny fault so much as a worn out old TPS sensor on top of your fuel pump.
My power steering leaked out of the input shaft for a while. Actually for about 2 years. I looked at it the other day and it quit taking fluid and doesn't leak anymore. Go figure.
Why do you think you 'burnt a valve'? What is your max boost? Do you know your EGTS? If you're stock like your sig says, I find it hard to believe that you have burnt up anything on the motor.
Anyway, basically, I would really look into your problems and decide which ones need fixing right away (brakes & suspension perhaps) and which ones can go for a while (seeping power steering, for example). It doesn't sound like you have anything major going on to me, but I know how it is when you make up your mind to move on to another project.
Let's start at the top:
Ball Joints are a bit of a pain (as a general rule), but they aren't too terrible. There are great write-ups on the ball joints and a lot of the big parts stores will lend you the ball joint presses needed to do it. Ball joints are also generally a pretty inexpensive fix. My truck doesn't have any, so I can't tell you how much or how hard, exactly, but...
Brakes are easy, and any car with a few miles on it needs brakes after a while. Also generally not too expensive, and usually the replacements get a lifetime warranty.
u joints are easy as pie, and inexpensive. $25 should get you a new uJoint...less at a big box store for some chinese stuff.
Why do you say your tranny is done? Have you checked the fluid? Is it red? up to the line? does it smell burnt? OD is generally not the tranny fault so much as a worn out old TPS sensor on top of your fuel pump.
My power steering leaked out of the input shaft for a while. Actually for about 2 years. I looked at it the other day and it quit taking fluid and doesn't leak anymore. Go figure.
Why do you think you 'burnt a valve'? What is your max boost? Do you know your EGTS? If you're stock like your sig says, I find it hard to believe that you have burnt up anything on the motor.
Anyway, basically, I would really look into your problems and decide which ones need fixing right away (brakes & suspension perhaps) and which ones can go for a while (seeping power steering, for example). It doesn't sound like you have anything major going on to me, but I know how it is when you make up your mind to move on to another project.
10-11-2011, 12:35 PM
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Yea I guess my main problem is at my age the lack of tools my dad isn't into trucks so hence no tools and no shop at present might get one soon I'm hoping and That little electrical thing on top of the fuel filter mount? and yea the brakes shouldn't be major hopefully
10-11-2011, 01:18 PM
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man if your only 18 ,then you have a really good project truck,,dont get overwhelmed by what needs to be done,,or your lack of tools,,most jobs on these trucks can be done with the most simple tools ,,and what you cant find try auto zone they usually have a lend a tool program,,id start with the brakes,,get a buddy and some pb blaster,,and dont be afraid to tear into it,,and read through the articles on the sticky they are a godsend ,,always think safety never trust a jack by its self and always scotch the tires,,it could be something real fun,,,and when you start take lots of pics it could help put it back together plus every one on here likes to see them,,,,and whatever it is dont be afraid to ask questions on here these guys know about everything ,
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10-11-2011, 01:34 PM
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Have a look on here for parts: rockauto.com
Depending on how bad of shape your brakes are in you may only need pads and shoes for now, all 4 wheels should cost less than 150 if you buy budget friendly parts. If you need rotor and drums you can budget $500 for all four wheels. As far as tools, the brake pads and shoes can be done with a lug wrench, Allen wrench, c clamp and vise grips, and a basic socket set. If you need to do drums and rotors you will need a few more tools but not too bad.
If you suspect burnt valves because the thing feels slow and under powered, thats just what a stock motor feels like. Just doing the free mode found in he stickey will have you feeling safe and able to merge into traffic without problems.
The overdrive TPS thing mentioned be bought as parts or five bucks, of buy one made already for 20-30 bucks. Plug it in and that problem is solved.
Keep it and run it. Good luck.
Depending on how bad of shape your brakes are in you may only need pads and shoes for now, all 4 wheels should cost less than 150 if you buy budget friendly parts. If you need rotor and drums you can budget $500 for all four wheels. As far as tools, the brake pads and shoes can be done with a lug wrench, Allen wrench, c clamp and vise grips, and a basic socket set. If you need to do drums and rotors you will need a few more tools but not too bad.
If you suspect burnt valves because the thing feels slow and under powered, thats just what a stock motor feels like. Just doing the free mode found in he stickey will have you feeling safe and able to merge into traffic without problems.
The overdrive TPS thing mentioned be bought as parts or five bucks, of buy one made already for 20-30 bucks. Plug it in and that problem is solved.
Keep it and run it. Good luck.
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vanman (12-28-2023)
10-11-2011, 04:59 PM
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I agree with the others...start with the brakes. New brake hoses for sure if they are still original, then new calipers and rear wheel cylinders, and then new pads. If the rotors don't shudder badly when your braking then they should be good enough for a little while. Just give them a good scrub with some 100 grit sandpaper to break the glaze on the rotor face. Same thing with the back drums, sandpaper the braking face and clean with brake cleaner.
As for ball joints...the upper thread in, so you should do them while the upper control arms are still installed in the truck. Pop them loose from the spindle then spin them out, you will need a ball joint socket for this...NAPA or Autozone should rent you one for free. Then use a breaker bar and a big honking piece of pipe ove the breaker bar for leverage. Make sure you have someone hold the ball joint socket down tight against the ball joint, and then you walk the bar. I found that if you don't have someone hold the socket down tight you run the risk of rounding off the ball joint and then your hooped!! I know this for a fact!!
Lower ball joints...I have not done mine yet but from what I've read in the sticky they are pressed in.
Get your parts off rockauto...and go to this site for a on-line coupon...
http://www.retailmenot.com/
Power steering leak...you can try one of those power steering leak stops. They swell the dried up seals and can lessen, or stop the leaks for a while. Not a permanant fix but can get you through unitl you can afford a reman unit.
Don't get too over whelmed, keeps the projects small so you have a sense of accomplishment. Take your time, do your research and ask lots of questions before you start.
Good luck!!
As for ball joints...the upper thread in, so you should do them while the upper control arms are still installed in the truck. Pop them loose from the spindle then spin them out, you will need a ball joint socket for this...NAPA or Autozone should rent you one for free. Then use a breaker bar and a big honking piece of pipe ove the breaker bar for leverage. Make sure you have someone hold the ball joint socket down tight against the ball joint, and then you walk the bar. I found that if you don't have someone hold the socket down tight you run the risk of rounding off the ball joint and then your hooped!! I know this for a fact!!
Lower ball joints...I have not done mine yet but from what I've read in the sticky they are pressed in.
Get your parts off rockauto...and go to this site for a on-line coupon...
http://www.retailmenot.com/
Power steering leak...you can try one of those power steering leak stops. They swell the dried up seals and can lessen, or stop the leaks for a while. Not a permanant fix but can get you through unitl you can afford a reman unit.
Don't get too over whelmed, keeps the projects small so you have a sense of accomplishment. Take your time, do your research and ask lots of questions before you start.
Good luck!!
10-11-2011, 08:45 PM
#13
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Don't be overwhelmed. Only fix what's broken and/or worn out as you discover it. Take the time to drive it... best way to identify problems.
Also get under it with a flashlight and LOOK... CAREFULLY. Shake and jiggle things. Look for slop and play. Grease your zerk fittings - look for movement in joints as the hydraulic pressure of the grease moves the joint (i.e. a bad joint). Jack up the front end and have a helper turn the steering wheel. Look for parts that don't move in unison. Try to physically steer the tire with your arms as a helper holds the steering wheel tight. Jack up the rear and run the truck in gear. See how effective your rear brakes are. May only need to be adjusted.
Avoid changing parts just because they 'look' old or nasty.
Also get under it with a flashlight and LOOK... CAREFULLY. Shake and jiggle things. Look for slop and play. Grease your zerk fittings - look for movement in joints as the hydraulic pressure of the grease moves the joint (i.e. a bad joint). Jack up the front end and have a helper turn the steering wheel. Look for parts that don't move in unison. Try to physically steer the tire with your arms as a helper holds the steering wheel tight. Jack up the rear and run the truck in gear. See how effective your rear brakes are. May only need to be adjusted.
Avoid changing parts just because they 'look' old or nasty.
10-11-2011, 08:47 PM
#14
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The secret is to divide and conquer. Decide what is the most necessary task and ONLY address it, without worrying about anything else until it is accomplished.
Also, to avoid confusion and too much information to chew on at once, address each issue in a new thread all it's own.
Stepping on one rock at a time, it is possible to get all the way across the creek without getting one's feet wet.
Also, don't switch horses in the middle of the creek.
10-11-2011, 08:50 PM
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Yea thing is I don't just want anyone helping me with it and the brakes and ball joints have to be done to pass the insurance inspection duh!