HX-35 stock housing??
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HX-35 stock housing??
what is the differnece between the HX-35 used on an automatic, and the one used n a manual truck?
I have an 02 HO 6spd and i am wondering what exhaust housing to upgrade to in order to lower my EGT's and not have to go with a full turbo swap
I have an 02 HO 6spd and i am wondering what exhaust housing to upgrade to in order to lower my EGT's and not have to go with a full turbo swap
#3
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If you want to keep the wastegate your only upgrade option is the 14 cm housing. If you don't mind losing the wastegate you can use the 16 cm housing - it's a very cheap and popular swap.
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Originally posted by wannadiesel
If you want to keep the wastegate your only upgrade option is the 14 cm housing. If you don't mind losing the wastegate you can use the 16 cm housing - it's a very cheap and popular swap.
If you want to keep the wastegate your only upgrade option is the 14 cm housing. If you don't mind losing the wastegate you can use the 16 cm housing - it's a very cheap and popular swap.
Also I believe the '01 & '02 autos use the HY-35, not the HX-35.
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ok...im no newbie to cars but can someone explain the benefit of a waste-gate, i mean i have the banks big head which was installed when i got the truck...
a waste gate pretty much stays close to a certain boost pressure then opens to release excess pressure to keep the turbo from spinning out of its efficiency range correct?
will this hinder me if i get the fueling mods (injectors/chip) and i want to run 40 psi, or will the hx-35 not be able to run that much boost to keep EGT's down.?
a waste gate pretty much stays close to a certain boost pressure then opens to release excess pressure to keep the turbo from spinning out of its efficiency range correct?
will this hinder me if i get the fueling mods (injectors/chip) and i want to run 40 psi, or will the hx-35 not be able to run that much boost to keep EGT's down.?
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as of right now i am assuming its a stock HX-35, in 5th and 6th gears i can runa max of 35psi STEADY at full throttle will EGT's at a steady 1150-1175 (this is at redline doing a steady 110-115mph, closed road of course), never hit 1200 except one time towing and pulling a long grade.
this truck previously had alot of power, it had most mods already installed, the pump wire was tapped, it has the BIG line kit on the FASS (like a garden hose)
Im still curious to find out if my clutch and turbo are stock or not, but as of now there is no way to tell without ripping things apart. I've heard rumors that the previous owner had well over $5k in parts on this truck but thats just word of mouth from another buyer who was looking at my truck and said the previous owner was his neighbor
this truck previously had alot of power, it had most mods already installed, the pump wire was tapped, it has the BIG line kit on the FASS (like a garden hose)
Im still curious to find out if my clutch and turbo are stock or not, but as of now there is no way to tell without ripping things apart. I've heard rumors that the previous owner had well over $5k in parts on this truck but thats just word of mouth from another buyer who was looking at my truck and said the previous owner was his neighbor
#9
$5k in parts could easily = a Banks kit + installation! LOL!
look at dodgeram.org for pics of stock turbos and compare yours.
you don't need to worry about lowering EGT's, you need to focus on raising them first!
look at dodgeram.org for pics of stock turbos and compare yours.
you don't need to worry about lowering EGT's, you need to focus on raising them first!
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If you can see 35 psi, then it's a pretty safe bet that your clutch is NOT stock. Very few stock clutches will hold that much fuel.
Also, the 16cm housing is NOT the easy swap that people want to say it is. The 12wg and 14wg housings use the stock cast iron elbow to attach the downpipe. The 16 and 18 non-wg housings use a different method, so it's NOT just a bolt in swap. The 14wg is an easy bolt up.
The overall fueling you run sounds VERY similar to my setup in terms of max boost and EGTs.
If the wire was tapped, do you still have the fueling box that tapped it? Maybe it was removed before you bought it...
Anyway, if you don't have the wire tap box on anymore, then there are injectors installed that are probably in the 75-90hp range-- something like a DD2.
Note that I have DD2s and an EZ, and have VERY similar results to yours.
Justin
Also, the 16cm housing is NOT the easy swap that people want to say it is. The 12wg and 14wg housings use the stock cast iron elbow to attach the downpipe. The 16 and 18 non-wg housings use a different method, so it's NOT just a bolt in swap. The 14wg is an easy bolt up.
The overall fueling you run sounds VERY similar to my setup in terms of max boost and EGTs.
If the wire was tapped, do you still have the fueling box that tapped it? Maybe it was removed before you bought it...
Anyway, if you don't have the wire tap box on anymore, then there are injectors installed that are probably in the 75-90hp range-- something like a DD2.
Note that I have DD2s and an EZ, and have VERY similar results to yours.
Justin
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my truck has zero smoke, the only time i can even notice the smoke is at ngiht if there is a car on my right side, then i will see a SLIGHT haze in their headlights...but nothign liek a black cloud
also the wire tap is still there but not connected, there is no box...i've checked, and was disappointed when i found it had been removed.
I guess its pointless as of now to worry about it, i am selling the truck ASAP as its no longer affordable on my budget
also the wire tap is still there but not connected, there is no box...i've checked, and was disappointed when i found it had been removed.
I guess its pointless as of now to worry about it, i am selling the truck ASAP as its no longer affordable on my budget
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