I ordered it and it gets here tomorow morning. I see it on the side of the bell housing so it looks pretty accessible but i know it cant be easy. How do you bleed the system and stuff when your done

 

Usually they come as a full replacement setup, master and slave, pre bled. Just remove the two nuts on the bellhousing and its out. If it is the full meal deal, disconnect the pedal fromt he master rod (stupid spring clips there), the clutch safety swtich, and then rotate the the whole master cylinder CCW from under the hood to unlock it from the fire. Unbolt the reservior, and pull the works out. Just reverse for installation.

If you have to bleed it, you'll have to wait for somebody else to chime in.

 

Hmm. well the one I ordered isnt a complete unit... Its just the slave. Do I need any special tools do work on these "stupid springs clips"?

 

where did you order it from?

 

individual parts can be replaced in these systems. i would remove your whole system, get a small medicine dropper and fill the slave and master cylinder with brake fluid. assemble the system, fill the reservoir with fluid. hold your hand over the end of the slave cylinder and VERY lightly bump the master cylinder to remove air. keep your reservoir above the other parts while doing this. install the system and before you bolt your slave in push the rod in and out several times to bleed the air and install the slave. ive replaced the slave and master cylinder on my truck on two separate times and this is how i did it. it seemed to work for me. good luck!

 

I just changed mine about 2 months ago.

The unit I removed was all one part. Reservior, Clutch attachment and Slave Cylinder that bolts to the bellhouse. What I got was a two part system.
It appears now you can replace the slave cylinder seperately from the reservior and clutch pedal assembly. It had a quick disconnect in the pressure line to the slave cylinder. The master cylinder was full of fluid.

I was concerned about getting air in the system. I left the plastic supports on the slave cylinder, which break the first time you depress the clutch pedal.

Took an hour to do it. Most of the pain was in the floor under the steering wheel at the clutch pedal.

Dave

 

Well i got it on. Sry I havnt answered in a few days. I ordered it from auto zone. I dont know if this is correct but its the only Way I could figure out how to do it. I had the slave cylinder off of the bell housing but still connected to the fluid line. Then I would sit there and pump the slave cylinder in and out with my hand until my buddy didnt notice any bubbles coming up through the resovour (sp?). Then, once that was complete, I had somebody compress the clutch pedal while I held the piston in the slave cylinder from going all the way out the end with my hand as best I could. Once the pedal was depressed, I would quickly pull the fluid hose off of the slave cylinder and put it back on. When I did this I could hear a little gurgling noise in the cylinder until it filled with fluid. Once it did I would get a little squirt of fluid when I perged the line. so I think I was doing it right. I did it over and over again until I simply could not hold the piston in with my hand any longer due to the pressure being so great. After putting the whole thing back together, it worked, but not as well as I think it should be working. When the old slave cylinder was still on, the clutch would start to engage with the pedal much further out. Really far out actually. Was this because my old slave cylinder was bad? I do have almost perfect clutch pedal pressure and it seems to be getting better and better as time goes on. What do you guys think? Also, with the old slave installed, the truck def did not shift correctly with out double clutching and it was very hard to get it into gear from a stop. With the new one on its like night and day how much better it shifts. The only thing I can think to do at this point is to take it to a shop and tell them to bleed the system. However, im pretty confident that A, you guys no better than any shop and B, a shop will prob charge me two hours of labor just to come out and say "yup, ur gona need to buy a sealed unit" cause there not gona now how to do it and they will never admit that haha.

 

What year do you have? From the 01 FSM:

REMOVAL
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected. The individual components
that form the linkage assembly cannot be overhauled
or serviced separately.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 35).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the lower dash panel
flange.
(5) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the upper dash panel
stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires.
(8) Remove retaining clip (Fig. 36).
(9) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(10) Inspect condition of bushing in the clutch
master cylinder pushrod (Fig. 36). Replace the clutch
hydraulic linkage if bushing is worn or damaged.
(11) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(12) Remove the nuts holding the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reservoir
to dash panel.
(14) Remove the clutch master cylinder from the
dash panel.
(15) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and connecting
lines from vehicle.

 

Ya I have an 01. That doesent really make sense to me though. How does it say that you arnt supposed to tamper with the quick disconect but it comes in two pieces. And that description doesnt say anything about bleeding the system...?...?...? im confused

 

master cylinder may be getting weak? found out my mc was weak when i went from a heavy single to a dual disk. had problems getting it to release with a new slave. if i had to do it all over again i would buy one of the heavy duty kits available from valair or southbend.

 

Once it's together, you replace with another set that hasn't been put together. I didn't see bleed procedure but haven't spent much time looking. Seems like another example of things being more complicated than necessary. 2 part systems have worked fine for many years.

 

Ya it still works and im driving it. I cant tell if im just getting used to it or if its getting slowly better. I wish i had another truck to compare it to ha. But i dont. I will let it ride for a few weeks I guess. I may end up giving up and buying a complete unit some time in the future. Moneys tight though im a college student so well see

 

I replaced my clutch master slave last fall. I got mine from a dealer. The replacement comes in two pieces as CoastalDav said. I was quite concerned about getting air in the line when I connected the two lines but had no problems.
Captain coop your situation is different since you replaced only the slave. It sounds as though you did okay. Keep an eye on your reservoir to make sure it stays full. If your clutch disengages without as much peddle travel you should be okay.
Stan

 

One of issues is time. If the slave is worn out, can the master cylinder be far behind or is it really the MC to start with. With the complete kit from Dodge or Southbend (donit know any other players, but there probablly is) the job is done in 30 minutes and no worries for an inexperienced owner/parts replacer.