banks twinram

ok i got a 94 dodge with a 5 speed and i recently got a master-slave assembly from a 97 dodge. question is, when i try to put the rod on that connects to the clutch pedal, i have to mash it up in the master cylinder about 1-1/2 inches, aqnd then the clutch pedal sticks WAY out in front of the brake pedal resting place. do i need to shorten this rod?? its from a 97 and may be different. also, the clutch pedal is very easy to push. i just replaced the clutch and also do not know if the clutch disengages or not because i have no driveshaft on it yet. another thing, the clutch pedal goes down to the same level as the brake pedal and stops. if this was a ford, i'd have it running by now, but its not, and im pretty new to dodge so i need lots of help. thanks

Hemi Cat

I don't know for sure on the interchangeability of those parts. Try setting all the parts side by side and compare the parts. It may be something simple like changing the pedal rod.

banks twinram

i'm sorry, i forgot to mention that i do not have the old one from the truck, i bought the truck disassembled and with many, many lost, broken, or sold parts. i think the master cylinder was in the sold category. do you know if the clutch edal is suposed to come up and hit the hood release under the dashboard if the master cylinder is unhooked? it would swing a lot farther if the dashboard wasn't in the way. i will just try to shorten the rod since i got the slave for free. you only live once right?

Hemi Cat

You should have the clutch master on the fire wall, the safety switch on the inside of the fire wall and the rod comming out the switch to the pedal. The pedal does not have a stop bracket like the old mechanical units had. My pedal has aprox 8 inches of travel. Hope this helps

banks twinram

yes, that definately helps, i was wonderin why it did not stop like the fords do. this is my first dodge, but i can't wait to drive it, it will be a lot better truck than my 89 ford with 340,000 miles on it!

dodgeman01

Well I have a good used master and slave outof my 94. it was starting to get weak because of the 3850 plate load on my DD but it still did its job. if your needin another one give me a shout.
With the master and slave hooked up the clutch pedel will set a little closer to the driver than the break pedal. You sid you can only push it down so far and it stops well thats not right. Did you buy then whole kit pre bled or one piece at a time?
DM01

banks twinram

the master-clutch, slave was given to my by a friend of a friend it was all in one piece and was bled, but i broke the plastic nipple off that goes to the reservoir and at that time it got air in the line. so i fixed the nipple with a rollpin and super glue and re-bled the system. "i guess i bled it good enough" and installed, i think i could mash the cylinder under the dash all the way in with by hand and not using the clutch pedal. it would be tough, but i think i could do it. it seems VERY easy to push with the pedal hooked up. no way to tell if the clutch is ctuall releasing-engaging like it should untill i get the radiator-intercooler hooked up.
i am working on a way to mount the power steering pump WITHOUT the vacuum pump being hooked up. i will place a vacuum pump off a ford doesel in place of the air conditioner compressor untill i can fund a new a.c. and vacuum pump. i know that there is a way to run the belt if there is no a.c. but the thing is that the water pump would be running backwards and the tentioner pulley would also be running on the wrong side of the belt. i would have to buy a new water pump that is made to turn the opposite direction. so i figured i could get around this cheap and fairly easy. any ideas about the power steering pump? and i have also been pondering the idea of a vacuum booster or hydraulic straight from the power steering pump to go on the CLUTCH for those with high pressure clutches requiring a lot of leg muscle to release the clutch. wouldn't that be nice.
the way i bled the system was by holding the slave cylinder upside down and mashing it in and out. i could hear air bubbles surging through the line and into the reservoir. had to fill the reservoir 3 times before i was suffice that all air bubbles were gone.

banks twinram

ok, i just bought a ac compressor so i would not have to buy another belt later on, and come to find out, the water pump runs the same way with or w/o a.c. i dunno why i thought that, but anyways, i got my rod to the master cylinder all rigged up and the clutch mashes in and out EASY, also it does not release the clutch at all, i tried mashing the clutch to the floor and cranking the motor over in gear and it jumped forward so i know its not releasing, i did buy this used and don't know exactly if it worked when pulled off or not, the guy "said" it worked... and do you know what kind of pressures those are putting out to the slave cylinder? i may make one that runs off air pressure with onboard air if i can get by with 150-175 psi to mash the clutch, or i may rig up some kind of air actuator off 18 wheeler brakes to it... it would sound like a blow-off valve like those ricers, rev the truck up and right when i let off hit the clutch just to see the look on their face or every time i shift