swordfish

Working on the truck in my signature. I am working on installing my SB DD3250 clutch. I bolted up the flywheel and torqued it down to 100 lbs/ft. At this point I could not turn the flywheel. I thought it might be on a compression stroke so I continued installing the clutches and pressure plate. When lining up the clutches to the flywheel I used the new 1 3/8" input shaft to line them up. I torqued the pressure plate down to 45 lbs/ft as instructed and I could not for the life of me get the input shaft out. When I would wiggle it the whole motor would shake with it.
At that point I decided it was time to punt. I took the pressure plate and clutches back off. I was finally able to get the input shaft out. I also decided to look at the other issue of not turning over the flywheel. I tried again to spin it by hand and then I tried with the alternator nut CCW. That ended up loosening the alternator nut. I loosened up the bolts on the flywheel. When they where all broke free from torque spec I could turn the flywheel by hand. Ok guys....What am I missing here? Any help is greatly appreciated. I will probably be calling SouthBend tomorrow to get their opinion.

swordfish

johnh

did you use the flywheel and bolts that came with the dd3250???

swordfish

Yes I used the flywheel that came with the clutch. The hardware that came with the clutch was also used. Thanks for the input.

swordfish

johnh

is it possible the bolts are too long? do they take washers?

pind

The bolts for the flywheel being too long, would not allow them to tighten properly. I think what is happening here, is the flywheel is contacting the main seal housing, once the flywheel is torqued to the crank. Almost like the pilot bore for the crank is too deep in the back of the flywheel.

I would look for signs of contact between the rear face of the flywheel, and the seal housing, or perhaps the rear face of the flywheel, and the main flywheel housing, to see if this is indeed the issue.

swordfish

Bolts are not too long. The new bolts did not come with washers. I torqued the bolts down in 4's...I did 12:00, 6:00, 9:00, 3:00, 10:30, 4:30, 7:30, 1:30 if that makes sense.

swordfish

scottsjeeprolet

Is there a spacer that goes behind the fly wheel missing?
I'd call Peter and see what he has to say.

swordfish

Thanks Scott. I wasn't sure what time they opened so I was waiting till 9:00 EST to give them a call. There was no spacer that I saw in the packaging.

swordfish

tima

I know i will probably get flamed for this but good luck.

Read my posts about clutch trouble.
Different truck and SB clutch package but same new flywheel problems.
Flywheel rubbing on back of block.
Excuse ( crank with excessive end play).
More likely problem ( improperly machined flywheel blanks).
But hey what do i know.

And by the way mine has not grenaded yet , but still making a hell of a rattling when disengaged and starting.

And for those that will say " Did you talk to the powers that be".
Yes i did and i will leave it at that.
Not going to spend anymore of my money to R&D their product.

swordfish

Good news. I talked to Mensel (not sure on spelling) at SouthBend. He suggested that the flywheel might be hitting the starter Bendix or housing. I took a look and it was hitting the housing. He suggested to put washers in as spacers to keep me going and to get with him on Monday.
I put the washers in and I can now move the flywheel when it is torqued. I am not sure if it is related or not, but when I put the pressure plate on with the input shaft I was able to get the input shaft out aswell.
I now have the input shaft installed in the transmission and the transmission is ready to go back in.
Mensel said my kit should have had a starter spacer in it. I am glad it was an easy fix. Thanks for everyone's input and help.

Swordfish

pind

just for what its worth.

If you have enough crank endplay for the flywheel to hit the block/housing/starter body... you sure won't need a dial indicator to measure it, you could use a standard carpenters tape measure.

South Bend Clutch

Well the fact of the matter is, they were able to move the crank in and out upwords of .100"

And, Totalloser, you post is totally out of line.

Peter

tima

" WHO " is the " they " you are referring too may i ask.

If there are a lot of " theys " buying these clutch kits and installing them on high mileage trucks with possible excessive crank end play , then maybe there should be an install note listing such problems.

Always nice to know these things after everything is buttoned up and has to be removed again.
The shop still has to be paid.