I have a 92 with the NV4500 upgrade, the transmission finally bit the dust Sunday after a zillion years and hours. I was hoping someone knew someone or a place to take it for a remanufacture transmission and new clutch. I tried to search it up first and couldn't find anything. I guess I will try to search up and basic transmission swap thread to see if I can tackle it but the hardest things I have fixed are the crank seal replacement and complete AC replacement. I watch a video and it didn't look real fun for 1 person with a messed up back I have have zero experiences with clutches. Thanks for any info.

 

Fun or not, i did it myself. My back isnt what it used to be either.

​​​​I built wooden 'adapters' from wood scrap so the tcase and trans would balance on a floor jack. (Remove each separately.) You can also teeter-totter a heavy part up or down with lots of wooden off-cuts.

 

Cool thanks.

 

My old 1978 Chevrolet with 4-speed and New Process 205 absolutely eats clutches; back when it was my main cattle-hauling truck it was not unusual to replace two or three clutches every year --- I learned a lot about dropping transmissions and transfer cases and replacing clutches.

I know somebody is going to ask --- why so many --- no matter the brand, no matter that everything considered was always also replaced, including the throw-out bearing collar, they always ate through the "fingers"; and, one day, I would swing up past the loading chute and push in the clutch pedal to go for reverse and darn near hit the other truck sitting parked there when the throw-out bearing went through the fingers and did not release the clutch --- in every single case, the throw-out bearing would wear through the clutch fingers --- not withstanding the fact that I could cross four states and never touch the clutch pedal.

If I learned one thing from all this, and it was a lesson I will never forget, --- do not separate the transfer-case from the transmission; leave them together.

ALWAYS replace that collar on the front of the transmission that the throw-out bearing rides on - ALWAYS.

If your floorboard lacks a big removable panel over the transmission hump, cut and create one.

On that 1978 Chevrolet, it came factory-original with a huge removable pan over the transmission/bell-housing that makes life far easier.

A Porta-Power is your friend, as are a couple good Come-a-longs; just keep your head out from under there.

 

Get a single jackstand ready under the 5spd. Driveshafts, Tcase, and crossmember out first. Chunk of 2x4 between engine and firewall. Trans next.

I always split the trans and tcase. Chevs, Fords, dodges, Jeeps... too heavy and awkward to deal with together.

Throwout bearing needs surface lube on all the right places or it will be short-lived; along with the input retainer. Input bearing is often shot by the time it needs a clutch. Also dont forget the bronze pilot bushing... often smashed out and gone.

A removable trans tunnel can be helpful, although the dodge floor is plenty tall and the engine can tilt back enough for the tower to clear the floor.

Have not needed a porta power or come along. Be sure to use the clutch centering dongle in your clutch kit.

 

I always had a brand-new Pilot Bearing on hand before starting and always used them; however, curiously, although I have seen them come out of other engines so thin that you could shave with them, in every Chevrolet we ever worked on, the old Pilot Bearing would look as good as the new one; small block or big block, it didn't seem to matter, a GM engine just did not wear Pilot Bushings like all other brands.

 

A lot of good info here, I will read it a few times. Any certain clutch kits you guys recommend? The truck puts out about 300 hp but I kind of baby it. I really appreciate the replies. I forgot to say it's a 2wd. I've called a couple shops asking for some estimates but so far no one is calling me back. Harbor Freight has transmission jacks on sale 60 bucks off for 169.00. I guess I will watch some videos and read up on it a couple days and dive in.

 

One more really question sorry, do I buy a clutch kit for a NV4500 or a D250? I am thinking NV4500 since I am seeing NV4500 clutch kits. Thanks

 

You have two variables that must both be considered.

A kit for the D250 will be for a Getrag transmission.

The NV4500 was available in numerous other applications so you have to be careful there.

If possible, I wouldn't consider any other clutch than a SACHS; I am a firm believer in the SACHS.

As for myself, I never considered the NV4500 as being an "upgrade" over the Getrag; the NV4500 was and is plagued with that nut backing off and destroying things; whereas, with proper lubricant level, the Getrag is pretty much bullet-proof; I know the three I have have always been so.

 

+1 on the 13" Sachs. Also marketted/copied by Zoom, Perfection, and M-Pact. For visual ID, the pressure plate is cast iron and thick. These require the stock type 1stgen lipped flywheel. Otherwise the Getrag and NV4500 can use the same clutch/flywheel package when the input is 1-1/4"

The 1stgen pilot bushing is fairly thin wall (1/8"?) and a worn input bearing will obliterate it. Jmho.... the clutch lasts so long, other things wear out first.

 

Thanks for the replies, I had ordered this one before I read the replies. Will it be okay? It looks like it comes with a new pilot bearing? https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/90/

 

Clutch is probably fine. The only southbend i've put hands on went into a ford 7.3 turbo-idi. Somebody at the shop whined about the engagement threshold. The rest of us didnt think there was an issue.

Roller pilot bearing makes me nervous. They eat input shafts when they fail. I thought SBC was doing kevlar for those.