Not looking for a discussion of the process, practices, or pitfalls (obviously a different forum)... just would like to hear from those that are/were running WVO to find out some details on the plumbing/mods. The alternative fuel boards are full of WVO powered Cummins, just few VE pumped 12Vs...

Some of the folks I've contacted are reluctant to post anything publicly and felt better with a PM or email

 

I run a WVO blend in the summer. I have thought about the conversion for my 93 but have not gotten around to it. For some reason people don't give details or show pictures of there complete conversion. I think its either because they did a hack job or they don't want people reverse engineering there Ideas. When i did my first WVO 2 tank set up on a rabbit years ago it was mostly just a shot in the dark. I knew all what I need but how to hook into the system was kept in the dark. My thoughts If I were to do it on the truck would be run the coolant lines off the heater lines on the top of the engine. Run them back under the cab in an isulated wrap together along the frame rail. I did learn to run your feed line with the heater lines in the wrap so you don't loose the oils heat in the run up. The pollak dual tank valve you will need but I never thought about how to hook into the fuel system much. I wanted to do quick discount lines in the bed so if the tank need to come out for more bed space or service it was an easy project. Definately consider a priming pump of sorts so you don;t have to suck the WVO up to the engine if you lose prime. Trust me you don;t want a mouth full of that stuff.

As for the VE pump. The rabbit has the VE pump and it did just fine on WVO. With the WVO your idle speed will decrease a little. My truck has run blends up to 35% off and on for the past 30,000 miles.

 

Don't do it in my CTD, due to it being my commercial work truck (dependability a must + fuel is a deductible expense)

I've seen some nice aircraft fuel heat exchangers (coiled over a water pipe) for pre-IP line on VE's

I'd add the banjo bolt with fuel pressure gauge, a piston lift pump, and a WVO tank temp gauge + a racor heated pre filter.

the SS pleated gas lines (for in home NG appliances) make good and cheap "in-tank' heat exchangers. A replaceable WVO tank (like a marine tank) works good and have a couple spares hanging around.

 

i run bio-diesel at 100% or veggie oil in my 92 1ton ram

 

Been running B100 for the last 2 years.

 

Had a Holiday turkey fry at work on Fri, I was tempted to scarf up the 4 pails of used peanut oil but chickened out after seeing all the floaty crud in it. I DID try to get a co-worker to dump it in his D Max tho (he declined,lol).

 

Let it settle inside for a day or 2. then pour it in. I usually do a cubey per tank of fuel and top off on top. That stuff is probally like new.

 

Thanks for the info Marv/all...

Since the truck is predominately a tow rig (w/ light local driving), I'm focusing on 3 season operation for now and will evaluate VO temps when it gets cold next winter...

The plan at this point is to use the existing 80gal AL aux. bed tank and Pollack valve (already plumbed & wired for the gauge senders).
- Tank will get HotFox coolant heated pickup (a combo intank HE & pickup tube)
- Either Racor or (probably) Vormax coolant heated filter
- "Hose-on-Hose" = Coolant hoses run along with VO supply & return lines w. insulation (will keep existing return IF I can keep the VO temps to the Pollack high enough)
- Either electric pusher at tank or Piston LP mod thru the OEM filter (I realize purge times will increase drastically, but it's NOT a DD & I'll just switch over when nearing destination)

A bud with a 2nd Gen (piston LP) ran the summer with only a heated filter & HoH to the Pollack without any issues. I'm hoping the HotFox & insulated lines will gain a few degrees over his system... plus I have the deplumbed auto tranny HE sitting there should I need a little more heat in the line

 

Try a hose in hose design, I have that in my benz, comes through hot-hot-hot, Plus filter to 5 microns, I dump all oil in trash can, and dewater it there, then filter to 5 microns, Your cummins will start like no change with 75% vedge in diesel tank to about 50*, You can run a small amt in tank all year, In summer up to 75% no issues, I have done it alot!
Peter

 

Thanks pred,

While I'm always open to trying things, I'm leery of the potential for gunking the cooling system with VO or worse, coolant contaminated fuel the feed to the IP!

I know, I know!... 100/1000 of folks using HIH, but given the materials (either AL or hard copper) being used for HIH in conjunction with a VERY vibration prone engine & rattly/jarring suspension transmitting through the frame, it seems the potential for cracks goes up exponentially.

IF I can't get the temps high enough, I may have to fall back on Plan B (12VDC Vegitherm) or Plan C (HIH)

 

Lack of heat will kill a VE pump as it is not as stout as a p-pump. Consider 2 complete fuel systems. I originally deadheaded my old stock lift pump and had to replace it and will add a solenoid valve to send diesel to diesel tank while the aux. veg system is on. Piston pump would be better. Heat is priority one and I run my vegetable oil through a hot fox, davco 234 plus (coolant and 12v), walbro fuel pump, adding a plate heat exchanger, solenoid valve, vegatherm 12v heater,and finally the IP.