What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
Wondering what a 1993 w250 LE 4x4 manual extended cab 93,000 miles on it is worth?Original Cummins Inline 6cyl Intercooled Turbo Diesel
5 Speed Manuel Transmission
2 Speed Transfer Case
Front Locking Hubs
Newer Geolander Mud terrain tires
All Original Steel Body and Floors
Original Gauges,with added boost and pyrometer gauges
LE Convenience Package
AIRFIFT Air Bags
6IN LIFT
5 Speed Manuel Transmission
2 Speed Transfer Case
Front Locking Hubs
Newer Geolander Mud terrain tires
All Original Steel Body and Floors
Original Gauges,with added boost and pyrometer gauges
LE Convenience Package
AIRFIFT Air Bags
6IN LIFT
Hard to tell by just that little blurb, and no pictures.
Somewhere between $5000 and $15000
The 6 inch lift is not everybody's favorite so that will limit a fair amount of potential buyers.
Lifted trucks usually see a few "rough nights" and collect dents and scratches more that stockers.
That being said my white crew with a 6 inch lift rarely sees much wheeling. When it does it is back roads and easy trails to get to a fishing hole or swimming spot, not mudding though the beaver ponds and bashing down the logging trails.
LED's, as long as the heat sinking is designed for it, would be a different story.
Our trucks are the epitome of an oxymoron.
An engine which requires little or no maintenance on a chassis / body that requires constant maintenance and re-maintenance, and sometimes (but not always) a re of the re-maintenance.
But it's still one of the coolest looking rides out there...
An engine which requires little or no maintenance on a chassis / body that requires constant maintenance and re-maintenance, and sometimes (but not always) a re of the re-maintenance.

But it's still one of the coolest looking rides out there...
I wanted mine to appear when I was making turns. They're multiple times brighter than our turn signals, and when the turn signal bulbs burn out, like one did the other day, I still have blinkers.

I'd make them my fog lights if I was to have a set installed like that. I like the idea so much I think it is on my "to do" list now.
Put It On Craigslist
Sadly, Blort, my ol' '93 LE D250 4X2 automatic is on the market. I'm the third owner, its all original at 118k miles. Grandpa cream-puff. Never wrecked. I'm not in a hurry to sell it, so I put it out there at 6500 bucks. Is this really unreasonable? Helluva good truck. Had it seven years this month. We've had a lot of fun in that truck, and I always get attached to the good ones Is that crazy? Wife got kinda teary-eyed when I told her I was selling it... H.
Sadly, Blort, my ol' '93 LE D250 4X2 automatic is on the market. I'm the third owner, its all original at 118k miles. Grandpa cream-puff. Never wrecked. I'm not in a hurry to sell it, so I put it out there at 6500 bucks. Is this really unreasonable? Helluva good truck. Had it seven years this month. We've had a lot of fun in that truck, and I always get attached to the good ones Is that crazy? Wife got kinda teary-eyed when I told her I was selling it... H.



Sadly, Blort, my ol' '93 LE D250 4X2 automatic is on the market. I'm the third owner, its all original at 118k miles. Grandpa cream-puff. Never wrecked. I'm not in a hurry to sell it, so I put it out there at 6500 bucks. Is this really unreasonable? Helluva good truck. Had it seven years this month. We've had a lot of fun in that truck, and I always get attached to the good ones Is that crazy? Wife got kinda teary-eyed when I told her I was selling it... H.



Last September, I put new pads, cut the rotors, and lubed the shinola out of my brake glides on my brick. I bought the most expensive raybestos pads out there thinking of better stopping performance. They worked very good.
The other day, I noticed my braking wasn't as good as it had been, so yesterday, I took the wheels off and found that the caliper glides had frozen, and the reason the brakes didn't work as good, was because they were getting too hot. Luckily this just started, and nothing was warped or damaged in the interim.
So, I cleaned up the glides and the caliper, reset the tension on the outer pad (bent the tabs so that the pad had to be pressed onto the caliper with force) and lubed the crap out of them with ceramic brake lube by permatex (the purple stuff). I also ground off that "lip" that forms on the outer most part of the inside and outside of the rotors (in rust) with my die grinder, so that there would be no interference with the pads as it was put back together.
I bled the old fluid (from september) out of the calipers, vac-u-bled the master clean, and filled the reservoir with new fluid, bleeding out the calipers with new.
Result ? brakes work wonderful again.
Really sucks that our environment here corrodes these parts this fast, even with all the lube I used last year..
The other day, I noticed my braking wasn't as good as it had been, so yesterday, I took the wheels off and found that the caliper glides had frozen, and the reason the brakes didn't work as good, was because they were getting too hot. Luckily this just started, and nothing was warped or damaged in the interim.
So, I cleaned up the glides and the caliper, reset the tension on the outer pad (bent the tabs so that the pad had to be pressed onto the caliper with force) and lubed the crap out of them with ceramic brake lube by permatex (the purple stuff). I also ground off that "lip" that forms on the outer most part of the inside and outside of the rotors (in rust) with my die grinder, so that there would be no interference with the pads as it was put back together.
I bled the old fluid (from september) out of the calipers, vac-u-bled the master clean, and filled the reservoir with new fluid, bleeding out the calipers with new.
Result ? brakes work wonderful again.
Really sucks that our environment here corrodes these parts this fast, even with all the lube I used last year..
I have been fixing up a stock motored, basically rust free California '91 RCLB W-250 with 232,xxx miles on it for the last two months.
I just got it back on the road yesterday and put 60 miles on it.
Things that where done to fix the old girl up:
Rebuilt a different Getrag, as the previous owner RUINED the last Getrag with 75W-90 in it
.
Fresh South Bend Con O clutch
Dis assembled, inspected and re-sealed the NP-205
Rear main seal on 12V and some fresh drive shaft joints.
Newer set of tires and rims as the old set had a busted tire belt on a front tire giving it the shakes.
Addressed some ghetto wiring - the head lights came on when you put it in reverse!
I pulled the AM/FM tape deck for a CD player I had on the shelf.
The exhaust needed a few hangers.
Removed the goofy K+N filter and re-install a factory air box.
Hammered out a dent on the fender.
Swapped in fresh head light bulbs, and tail light lenses.
Checked all the fluids, changed some.
Swapped a color matching fiberglass capper on it that I had already.
Yesterday I had a local shop install one of my spare OEM Mopar windshields for $40 which was the last stumbling block in getting it an inspection sticker.
I still would like to address the sun burned west coast interior that looks like it housed a dog for many months.
I'll be swapping the shredded bench seat, driver's door panel, seat belts, the rubber floor mat and jut padding and also adding some good 6X9 speakers to the doors at the same time.
The drivers window track needs some love, as it will not go all the way down.
Oh, and I will also tune the pump soon.
Right after I get the pyro and boost gauge off the bench seat where it sits, and hooked up.
I will adjust the governed RPM up, the fuel up and then the idle down.
My next big hurdle will be getting the post that the tailgate straps hang on welded back in as the last guy
saw-z-alled them off to install a large metal, old school, gypsy style camper.
I have the mint tailgate and straps for it, just no strap posts on the bed to hang it from…
I am planning on cutting out some sheet metal and the stud out of a rotten bed, then weld them in from behind, removing the tail lights for access.
Time for me to dust off the welder.
I just got it back on the road yesterday and put 60 miles on it.
Things that where done to fix the old girl up:
Rebuilt a different Getrag, as the previous owner RUINED the last Getrag with 75W-90 in it
.Fresh South Bend Con O clutch
Dis assembled, inspected and re-sealed the NP-205
Rear main seal on 12V and some fresh drive shaft joints.
Newer set of tires and rims as the old set had a busted tire belt on a front tire giving it the shakes.
Addressed some ghetto wiring - the head lights came on when you put it in reverse!
I pulled the AM/FM tape deck for a CD player I had on the shelf.
The exhaust needed a few hangers.
Removed the goofy K+N filter and re-install a factory air box.
Hammered out a dent on the fender.
Swapped in fresh head light bulbs, and tail light lenses.
Checked all the fluids, changed some.
Swapped a color matching fiberglass capper on it that I had already.
Yesterday I had a local shop install one of my spare OEM Mopar windshields for $40 which was the last stumbling block in getting it an inspection sticker.
I still would like to address the sun burned west coast interior that looks like it housed a dog for many months.
I'll be swapping the shredded bench seat, driver's door panel, seat belts, the rubber floor mat and jut padding and also adding some good 6X9 speakers to the doors at the same time.
The drivers window track needs some love, as it will not go all the way down.
Oh, and I will also tune the pump soon.
Right after I get the pyro and boost gauge off the bench seat where it sits, and hooked up.
I will adjust the governed RPM up, the fuel up and then the idle down.

My next big hurdle will be getting the post that the tailgate straps hang on welded back in as the last guy
saw-z-alled them off to install a large metal, old school, gypsy style camper.I have the mint tailgate and straps for it, just no strap posts on the bed to hang it from…
I am planning on cutting out some sheet metal and the stud out of a rotten bed, then weld them in from behind, removing the tail lights for access.
Time for me to dust off the welder.
Last weekend, I installed a B&W receiver hitch on my pile, HDRH25122, rated for 16,000lbs trailer weight and 1,600lbs TW with a weight distribution system; 15,000lbs trailer weight and 1,500lbs TW without weight distribution. Picked it up on Amazon through a place called Autoplicity for $157(?) with free shipping. Not bad at all considering MSRP is around $250.
What a stout and solid unit! I don't have any near future plans to tow anything but just wanted to ability to if the need ever arises. And, although, it's rated for so much weight, I wouldn't plan on coming near that with a conventional tow. Should I start to push 12,000lbs, I'd prefer to go gooseneck. Just the added assurance of having a buffer. I've always gone a little overkill on some things
.
What a stout and solid unit! I don't have any near future plans to tow anything but just wanted to ability to if the need ever arises. And, although, it's rated for so much weight, I wouldn't plan on coming near that with a conventional tow. Should I start to push 12,000lbs, I'd prefer to go gooseneck. Just the added assurance of having a buffer. I've always gone a little overkill on some things
.











