Took the 91.5 out for a evening drive in the first snow in over 2 years. Snow like this is a rarity in SE AZ. Found out the heater grid is working intermittently, but it started in spite of it.

 

The rod knock comes and goes. For the most part, it's gone. Sometimes when you start it, it sounds a bit weird, like a big clunk, then it starts up just fine. Rod knock isn't happening now, simply because it's not running yet.

Changing out the lift pump with the HVLP from the Hungry Diesel, and then we'll check the FSS again

Keep ya posted as to how it all turns out.

T.

 

Anyone who says that doing this is easy, is lying.

Hanging my 200 lb body over the top of the fender, unable to see like a 20 year old could, is no easy task. I'm sure the next one would be easier, but still.


So does this yellow metal protrusion part of the tappet cover ? Not the yellow flaky insulation, but the metal I would up gouging pretty good with the grinder.

Thanks.


Ready to roll

OLD Cummins LP

Slightly damaged metal on each lump. Hopefully doesn't start leaking

New LP installed

 

T-man,
That yellow metal is the tappet cover itself behind the insulation.

 

Oh, yippie.

 

So far, no leaks.

I've never seen FP like this before, and the truck definitely has more power, although it's still not a brand new Corvette fast.

14 psi

 

Glad to hear the truck responded well to having more fuel pressure to the VE pump.
I have installed those LPHV piston lift pumps to replace almost all of the diaphragm pumps on my 1st gens.

 

These are the pumps that have to be "re-sprung" to lower the pressure to a safe level correct?

 

I bought 3 or 4 HVLP set ups from Eric @ The Hungry Diesel years ago.
They came with the needed hard line to the filter, a couple of gaskets and a metal spacer for behind the LP.

The pressure is higher than a factory 1st gen diaphragm pump but the fuel volume moved is also increased.

There are plenty of people who swap out the springs on a 2nd gen LP to lower the fuel pressure. I have heard a few people using a spring they get from Fastenal.

 

It sounds like you've been busy with some solid maintenance and upgrades on your Gen 1! Great work on tackling the rust belt bleeder screws and getting half of them sorted. Replacing a wheel bearing, packing the rest, and installing new brake pads are essential tasks for keeping your truck in top shape. The new battery and fixing the cable end are also crucial for reliable performance. It's interesting to hear about your experience with the front end of a 2WD truck compared to 4x4s. Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your progress!

 

I did the 2ng Gen lift pump with the Fastenal spring last year....I'll tell you it is not a drop in and go deal!

-First off the spring was to wide to seat into the piston and the cap that the OEM spring sat in so I had to force it in a little but was not seated on the bottom of either but figured I'd give it a try, once together I installed the pump.
-I have a manual fuel pressure gauge under the hood and when I fired it up first time it went up to 18-20lbs fuel pressure at idle...so got shut down immediately.
-Took it all apart again and carefully bent the springs so it had a bit of a beehive taper to each end of the spring so it would sit inside the piston and cap this time and put it back in...this time it was hovering around 15-16lbs at idle but bringing the RPM up it started to climb to 18+lbs so shut it down.
-Took it out again and this time removed half a spring coil from each end and again worked the spring to seat properly...installed it and tried again. This time it was idling at around 10-12lbs but higher RPM was bringing it over 16lbs and I wasn't comfortable with that so out it came again.
-Removed another half coil from each end and did the spring manipulation and installed...now was idling around 8lbs and full RPM it was around 12lbs....Perfect!

It has since settled down a little and idles around 7lbs with high RPM pressures in the 10-12lbs range. Bit of a PITA and I would not attempt this "upgrade" unless you had a fuel pressure gauge to monitor your pressures.

 

The HVLP has already had the spring swapped.

There is 2 different sized piston pumps. I bought the smaller one not knowing what I had bought. (still better than the diaphragm original) Got the hard fuel line too. I bought them from https://poormansdiesel.com/ Also got the stud/spacer kit. I bought a bag of the bigger diameter springs from Grainger. The don't sell individual springs. So I ordered a bag of the smaller springs for the piston pump I ordered from Poorman's.

Never have ran the setup as I went a different route. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...el-ish-335655/

I spent at least 2 weekends with decent weather after I got my IP my girl friend when I should have installed my THD hotrodded IP. Last weekend, this weekend aren't ideal for working out in the driveway.

 

So yesterday, I hop in the brick after about a week and a half of sitting. When I went to start it, the "bang" I heard when I clipped the key, was the same "Rod Knock" I had a while back, but then mysteriously went away.

As I roll backwards down the driveway, I see a line of drips under the truck, now exposed.

I pull into the driveway, letting the truck front sector over the walkway, hop out, and wallah, the engine is pizzing oil out the rear main seal.


So this means the brick will be shipped to the trans guy, have the trans removed, check the flex plate (which is one of these fancy SFI super duty units off Amazon), and see what happened. Something failed, and seems to have wiped out the rear main, or as some would say, really bad timing, rear main failing at the same time I really didn't need it to fail.

Oh well. Life serves lemons

pizzing

Failed the last time it was parked
.

 

Ouch!

 

That sucks.
Hope it’s nothing more than a rear seal and maybe a flex plate.

-Niemand