1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

Old Jul 4, 2017 | 09:58 AM
  #4186  
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BigRed, I see in your avitar that you and I are basically neighbors. With that said, is your truck originally from here in the west coast? I ask because I'm curious as to why you have corroded brake lines, rust, and all that stuff.

I like O'Rileys pre made brake lines. You can get them from 8" in length all the way to 50", I believe. After 18", it seems the lengths come in multiples of 10". One thing I've found, is 3/16" lines are a pain to flair. The end results are deformed flares or tiny cracks on the flair. I could blame it on the cheap, $25 flair kit I bought from NAPA, but it worked great on 1/4" brake lines and on a 1/2" line I had to flare when I made up a transmission cooler line awhile back. Anymore, with 3/16" lines, I just buy them a little longer and use up the extra with an extra loop here and there, to avoid cutting and re flaring.

Pecken's- I checked out that link you put up, where you get your brake lines from. Man, I'd like to have that 007 flaring tool. That thing is the real deal! Pricey though! Seems anything that makes things convenient is big $$.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 10:05 AM
  #4187  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by bigragu
BigRed, I see in your avitar that you and I are basically neighbors. With that said, is your truck originally from here in the west coast? I ask because I'm curious as to why you have corroded brake lines, rust, and all that stuff.

I like O'Rileys pre made brake lines. You can get them from 8" in length all the way to 50", I believe. After 18", it seems the lengths come in multiples of 10". One thing I've found, is 3/16" lines are a pain to flair. The end results are deformed flares or tiny cracks on the flair. I could blame it on the cheap, $25 flair kit I bought from NAPA, but it worked great on 1/4" brake lines and on a 1/2" line I had to flare when I made up a transmission cooler line awhile back. Anymore, with 3/16" lines, I just buy them a little longer and use up the extra with an extra loop here and there, to avoid cutting and re flaring.

Pecken's- I checked out that link you put up, where you get your brake lines from. Man, I'd like to have that 007 flaring tool. That thing is the real deal! Pricey though! Seems anything that makes things convenient is big $$.
Anymore NAPA stuff is no better than Harbor freight.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 10:11 AM
  #4188  
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From: Nevada Co., CA
"I see in your avitar that you and I are basically neighbors. With that said, is your truck originally from here in the west coast? I ask because I'm curious as to why you have corroded brake lines, rust, and all that stuff."

Commuting to Truckee for years and not keeping up on washing underneath. CalTrans might not use "salt", but whatever they use is seriously corrosive. I've kept a set of brake pads that the friction material separated from the backing because of corrosion. I was going to drop in on CT and ask them "what the heck?". I figured they might sic the highway patrol on me for driving a compromised vehicle!
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 10:54 AM
  #4189  
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From: Winterset, IA
Originally Posted by bigragu
BigRed, I see in your avitar that you and I are basically neighbors. With that said, is your truck originally from here in the west coast? I ask because I'm curious as to why you have corroded brake lines, rust, and all that stuff.

I like O'Rileys pre made brake lines. You can get them from 8" in length all the way to 50", I believe. After 18", it seems the lengths come in multiples of 10". One thing I've found, is 3/16" lines are a pain to flair. The end results are deformed flares or tiny cracks on the flair. I could blame it on the cheap, $25 flair kit I bought from NAPA, but it worked great on 1/4" brake lines and on a 1/2" line I had to flare when I made up a transmission cooler line awhile back. Anymore, with 3/16" lines, I just buy them a little longer and use up the extra with an extra loop here and there, to avoid cutting and re flaring.

Pecken's- I checked out that link you put up, where you get your brake lines from. Man, I'd like to have that 007 flaring tool. That thing is the real deal! Pricey though! Seems anything that makes things convenient is big $$.
I have an inline flare tool that worked much better that I got from my cornwell guy. Don't know who makes it but napa has the same kit (SER 165C).

You can also rent that awesome tool from Fedhill for like $25 a week I believe.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 11:29 AM
  #4190  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by bigredbrick
"I see in your avitar that you and I are basically neighbors. With that said, is your truck originally from here in the west coast? I ask because I'm curious as to why you have corroded brake lines, rust, and all that stuff."

Commuting to Truckee for years and not keeping up on washing underneath. CalTrans might not use "salt", but whatever they use is seriously corrosive. I've kept a set of brake pads that the friction material separated from the backing because of corrosion. I was going to drop in on CT and ask them "what the heck?". I figured they might sic the highway patrol on me for driving a compromised vehicle!
I am north of Auburn Out by the airport (until September then out of this state)and Augie is north of me up Highway 49.
My donor 90' did the commute from Quincy to Reno for many years and is in about the same shape.
It's salt. they just call it Sodium Chloride.

Lucky for me mine spent most of it's life down here In the winter anyway. I have had it 21 years now and the PO used it to tow a filth wheel RV. from the chips and some little door dings I think it sat in a two car garage before I got it.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 02:14 PM
  #4191  
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From: Prince George, BC
Got back last night from a 1300km trip in Patches. Went to see my brother and his wife at there "get away" house in Bralorne BC. Brought my oldest daughter along for the trip, we did some 4wheeling in my brother little jeep while we were there.....lots of trails and abandoned houses and stuff up that way. Also picked up an older wood burning stove for the new shop, and few other things while I was there.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #4192  
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From: Commerce, OK
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
The fastenal spring is SKU # 110166720, .938 (15/16) OD, 2" tall, x .080 wire diameter, but I have found the comparable spring in another manufacturer and will see if I can find a seller for that one locally. That one is Century Compression Spring, C-752 or CR-752.

If not I will PM you Edwin.....I appreciate your willingness to doing that for me!
Now that my lift pump has gone out I'm going to upgrade to the piston pump. Does changing the spring reduce the pressure or the volume?

Did you get your spring locally? I can easily get 2 when I get one and mail the other to you.

Edwin
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 04:19 PM
  #4193  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by edwinsmith
Now that my lift pump has gone out I'm going to upgrade to the piston pump. Does changing the spring reduce the pressure or the volume?

Did you get your spring locally? I can easily get 2 when I get one and mail the other to you.

Edwin
Just the pressure.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 10:05 PM
  #4194  
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From: Nevada Co., CA
OK, what's the deal with replacement right rear parking brake cables? They all have the wrong end for connecting to the arm at the brake. Or, am I just stupid? Yes I know I'm stoopit. I looked at all the pictures on rockauto and checked at NAPA and they're all the same, wrong. The Dorman part number and NAPA part number are close enough for me to say they're the same. What do I have to do, try to swap the end from the old cable onto the new one? The left side had the correct end!
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 10:19 PM
  #4195  
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From: Nevada Co., CA
"(until September then out of this state)" by mknittle

Can I ask where you're going? Right now, Wyoming and Missouri (Ozarks) are the 2 states I want to check out.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #4196  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by edwinsmith
Now that my lift pump has gone out I'm going to upgrade to the piston pump. Does changing the spring reduce the pressure or the volume?

Did you get your spring locally? I can easily get 2 when I get one and mail the other to you.

Edwin
Haven't had a chance yet to see if I can find one locally yet. I want to see if I can find one first before I choose the option you offer.
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 07:48 AM
  #4197  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by bigredbrick
"(until September then out of this state)" by mknittle

Can I ask where you're going? Right now, Wyoming and Missouri (Ozarks) are the 2 states I want to check out.
We are moving east of Tulsa Oklahoma.
between Wyoming and Missouri especially the Ozarks I would go for the Ozarks. I would rather go there myself but we got a killer deal on my brother -in-laws old house.
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 01:04 PM
  #4198  
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From: Commerce, OK
Originally Posted by mknittle
We are moving east of Tulsa Oklahoma.
between Wyoming and Missouri especially the Ozarks I would go for the Ozarks. I would rather go there myself but we got a killer deal on my brother -in-laws old house.
I grew up in that area. In a little town called Coffeyville, KS 60 miles north of Tulsa. Really nice people in OK.
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 02:39 PM
  #4199  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by edwinsmith
I grew up in that area. In a little town called Coffeyville, KS 60 miles north of Tulsa. Really nice people in OK.
I have heard a lot of good things About the Tulsa area. I have also heard of Coffyville. There is a lot of history in that area.
I am really looking forward to getting there.
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 09:27 PM
  #4200  
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From: Winterset, IA
Originally Posted by bigredbrick
OK, what's the deal with replacement right rear parking brake cables? They all have the wrong end for connecting to the arm at the brake. Or, am I just stupid? Yes I know I'm stoopit. I looked at all the pictures on rockauto and checked at NAPA and they're all the same, wrong. The Dorman part number and NAPA part number are close enough for me to say they're the same. What do I have to do, try to swap the end from the old cable onto the new one? The left side had the correct end!
I noticed this as well... I saved my old cables so one day I could send them in for some custom stainless ones.
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