Cool idea, man!

 

Loaded round number 7 of dirt into the bed. Been taking half a trucks worth, bed rail high to work to dispose off. Stuffs pretty heavy, had to put some air in the bags but trucks not any slower.

 

That sucks! I did something similar when I did the KDP on my truck. Got it all back together and was feeling pretty good about myself until I saw the dust seal sitting on the rad support.

 

I may be doing that very thing soon. About a mile from my house there is a 92 or 93, 1/2 ton, RCLB 2wd that's been sitting for a few years. Might stop by one of these days and see if they want to part with it. If they want to sell it, worst case its a good parts truck (front clip, bed, doors).

 

Dang it, I still have to do the KDP....guess it's going to have to wait until my first oil change after this truck makes its maiden voyage since being built. Project "RE-DO" might be a better name for my truck.

 

Replaced my water pump and belt tensioner, no more squeaking noise. Also flushed my cooling system via Jim Lane's California style flush, with adapter. I think I will have to do his coolant filter write up for my next upgrade, because it did not look healthy in there....



I did find out my radiator and radiator cap are still original though

 

Been cold up here and yesterday took me 20 min to get the E-brake cables to release.....friggin aftermarket cables with no boots on the front side of the cable, so it allows water to get into the cable. I have 2 new Raybestos cables on the way...and they do have boots over the ends. Also broke the E-brake T-handle while messing around.

 

Modified my 73 column, using some 2nd Gen parts. The shaft is now self supporting with a DD end on it, and bolts right up to the 2nd Gen U-Joint, since my truck now has 2nd Gen front suspension and steering.

 

I need to find a "Dodge" or preferably a "Cummins" horn button sticker for my new wheel. I like this wheel a lot better than the original 73 steering wheel with the ugly bent banana horn button....

 

# 1 lube the crap out of it before putting it in.

# 2 Follow Oliver's tip by installing shrink wrap on the end of the cable facing forwards. I put 3 or 4 different types of shrink wrap, each one heated up over the previous. I then took a zip tie, and zip tied the end so that it will take a big deal to get water in there. The shrink wrap assembly adds 4 to 5 inches over the cable end, and when in use the cable slides fine inside.

So far, so good. Time will ultimately tell.

 

hahahaha!

 

Yeah they are going in a pail of oil right now....the new cables have small boots over the ends...not like the accordion style of the originals though.

I did have the shrink tube seals, but they got damaged in all the moving and water had already got in. I plan on adding the shrink tube seals over the existing ones as added insurance.

 

I would try injecting them with marine wheel bearing grease, and periodically regrease what you can on the ends. Couldn't hurt.

 

I tried that, but the clearance between sheath and cable is just a few thousandths. Just enough to let water or thin penetrating oil in, but the grease can't fit in there. I went as far as sealing a funnel on one end of the cable, and let gravity do it's work. Took forever to migrate through

Water must be kept out, otherwise it freezes no matter what you had in there

 

Not sure what happened today, but after driving for about 15minutes, my new internal regulator must have failed because suddenly I started overcharging again.