Transmission Stuff, and me going crazy - Part 2
03-22-2007, 02:10 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Transmission Stuff, and me going crazy - Part 2
Ok what started Here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=122980
Has become quite the story....
I took the truck to Pheonix Remanufactured Transmission, and they did their thing and I got a newly rebuilt transmission. Ok...so, I drove it back to San Diego and while it seemed to rev a little bit higher than before, (just little teensy bit) otherwise it seemed to be fixed and didn't overheat or give us problems on the way home.
So, I removed the little cutoff thingy (any idea what Dodge CALLS this part so I can replace it if needed?) that cuts out the overdrive if the trans gets too hot (the little sensor on the hot pipe) and installed a trans temp gauge in its place and
So, we got all excited and hooked up the 5th wheel to head out and on the first largish hill realized that A> What was slight revving was now the engine at full throttle just to get up a hill, and B> We still had problems with heat, albeit MUCH less than before.
With the 5er unhooked it runs OK, but still revs higher than I thought it should. So I drove it around a bit for errands and such, and in the process, the stupid lil' sensor which was attached but dangling a bit (I know, I'm dumb, shoulda secured it better) fell off. Now we get no overdrive, which makes me think that this sensor is normally in a shorted state, and when it falls off and opens the circuit, this will cause no overdrive, since it's a safety type thing. If anyone knows, lemme know, as I CAN just ignore the lil sensor and short the pins if need be.
Anyway, Pheonix Re-trans has a warantee and Mike there is a good guy and he says, Take it to a trans place and have em look it over and since you are coming here anyway, see if they can fix it enough to safely get it over the mountains to us.
I take it to a place that was not the greatest and they say "Trans is fine, your turbo is blown and won't spin" then the next day they call and say "no, it IS a trans adjustment that is needed for $150" and they call Mike...who calls me and says they are offering to adjust the band for $150, and says I can do it myself, which I use everyone's advice on here and do.
Doesn't help much.
So I took it this past week, to Dr. Trans here in San Diego, and they say "It's NOT your trans that's fine. But the codes that show up say it is this (I'll get the codes in a bit...need to dig em up).
Now, my check engine light is on, and this stems from the time when I had a "No Charge" situation with the battery and the alternator checked out fine, so I found the info on putting in an aux voltage regulator, because the one in the 92 is in that computer box thingy. SO....the codes all show over voltage, and stuff to do with the computer thingy and the voltage regulator.
Which brings me to my questions:
On a 92, does the computer regulate or do anything that if it blew out, would or could cause the symptoms I'm experiencing? Does it regulate the Injector pump or anything?
Secondly, the little sensor thing on the trans...can I get away with NOT having it, and if so, do I need to short the pins in the connector? If NOT, what the hell does dodge call it?
Thirdly, I opened the tube at the other end of the air-cleaner (at the turbo end) and the little fan wheel thingy in there (in the front end of the turbo) spun easily and pretty freely, and didn't wobble or anything....so I'm assuming those guys were just blowing smoke about my turbo being no good. Is there an easy and more definitive way to test it right now?
Lastly, ANY ideas that bear on this (remember, before my old trans went, it towed this trailer easily for the 15k-20k miles since I bought the truck) I would COMPLETELY appreciate anyone who helps me NOT go completely bonkers.
James
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=122980
Has become quite the story....
I took the truck to Pheonix Remanufactured Transmission, and they did their thing and I got a newly rebuilt transmission. Ok...so, I drove it back to San Diego and while it seemed to rev a little bit higher than before, (just little teensy bit) otherwise it seemed to be fixed and didn't overheat or give us problems on the way home.
So, I removed the little cutoff thingy (any idea what Dodge CALLS this part so I can replace it if needed?) that cuts out the overdrive if the trans gets too hot (the little sensor on the hot pipe) and installed a trans temp gauge in its place and
So, we got all excited and hooked up the 5th wheel to head out and on the first largish hill realized that A> What was slight revving was now the engine at full throttle just to get up a hill, and B> We still had problems with heat, albeit MUCH less than before.
With the 5er unhooked it runs OK, but still revs higher than I thought it should. So I drove it around a bit for errands and such, and in the process, the stupid lil' sensor which was attached but dangling a bit (I know, I'm dumb, shoulda secured it better) fell off. Now we get no overdrive, which makes me think that this sensor is normally in a shorted state, and when it falls off and opens the circuit, this will cause no overdrive, since it's a safety type thing. If anyone knows, lemme know, as I CAN just ignore the lil sensor and short the pins if need be.
Anyway, Pheonix Re-trans has a warantee and Mike there is a good guy and he says, Take it to a trans place and have em look it over and since you are coming here anyway, see if they can fix it enough to safely get it over the mountains to us.
I take it to a place that was not the greatest and they say "Trans is fine, your turbo is blown and won't spin" then the next day they call and say "no, it IS a trans adjustment that is needed for $150" and they call Mike...who calls me and says they are offering to adjust the band for $150, and says I can do it myself, which I use everyone's advice on here and do.
Doesn't help much.
So I took it this past week, to Dr. Trans here in San Diego, and they say "It's NOT your trans that's fine. But the codes that show up say it is this (I'll get the codes in a bit...need to dig em up).
Now, my check engine light is on, and this stems from the time when I had a "No Charge" situation with the battery and the alternator checked out fine, so I found the info on putting in an aux voltage regulator, because the one in the 92 is in that computer box thingy. SO....the codes all show over voltage, and stuff to do with the computer thingy and the voltage regulator.
Which brings me to my questions:
On a 92, does the computer regulate or do anything that if it blew out, would or could cause the symptoms I'm experiencing? Does it regulate the Injector pump or anything?
Secondly, the little sensor thing on the trans...can I get away with NOT having it, and if so, do I need to short the pins in the connector? If NOT, what the hell does dodge call it?
Thirdly, I opened the tube at the other end of the air-cleaner (at the turbo end) and the little fan wheel thingy in there (in the front end of the turbo) spun easily and pretty freely, and didn't wobble or anything....so I'm assuming those guys were just blowing smoke about my turbo being no good. Is there an easy and more definitive way to test it right now?
Lastly, ANY ideas that bear on this (remember, before my old trans went, it towed this trailer easily for the 15k-20k miles since I bought the truck) I would COMPLETELY appreciate anyone who helps me NOT go completely bonkers.
James
03-22-2007, 02:39 PM
#2
Registered User
I suppose there could be some issue with band adjustment. But I doubt it. A new/rebuilt tranny just shouldn't have those issues. It least not from a reputable shop.
Did you get a new torque converter with the trans rebuild? In my opinion, a trailer as large as yours really really really needs an aftermarket torque converter. Since you're dealing with a shop in Phoenix, maybe give Hughes a call. They have a shop in Tucson and Phoenix I believe. But any good manufacturer will do...DTT, et. al.
So...if you got a new "stock" converter, (or if you have an old "stock" converter) that will make all kinds of silly heat. I tow a small 23' 5th wheel, and, right now, mine almost overheats just going down the interstate flat! (I'm doing a hughes converter in a couple of weeks.)
Also, I think you have to have to have to have the oil/water heat exchanger. It's pretty critical for keeping the dern thing cool. Keep your aftermarket add-on. You'll enjoy it for the added security.
Did you get a new torque converter with the trans rebuild? In my opinion, a trailer as large as yours really really really needs an aftermarket torque converter. Since you're dealing with a shop in Phoenix, maybe give Hughes a call. They have a shop in Tucson and Phoenix I believe. But any good manufacturer will do...DTT, et. al.
So...if you got a new "stock" converter, (or if you have an old "stock" converter) that will make all kinds of silly heat. I tow a small 23' 5th wheel, and, right now, mine almost overheats just going down the interstate flat! (I'm doing a hughes converter in a couple of weeks.)
Also, I think you have to have to have to have the oil/water heat exchanger. It's pretty critical for keeping the dern thing cool. Keep your aftermarket add-on. You'll enjoy it for the added security.
03-22-2007, 02:44 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Port Crane (Binghamton) NY
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im no auto trans expert but from my dealings with them, a band adjustment doesnt sound out of line at all. And from what I have read, and learned here about the auto o/d's in the first gens, being a non lockup torque convertor, I wouldnt doubt that POS aftermarket torque converter they stuck in there isnt helping matters at all. I also wouldnt be surprised if the TPS (throttle position sensor) is out of adjustment or needing replaced.
If ya have a pyro, u would know if yer turbo is shot, pulling that kind of weight u would be seeing HIGH EGT's I would immagine, that guy is totaly blowin smoke!
I think the higher RPM's would be a cause of the torque convertor, sucky stall rating, sucky fluid coupling, more throttle required.
I didnt read the whole post on the last tranny going. I had an 86 camaro for a little bit and the cooling coil in the Rad developed a crack and allowed antifreeze in the trans. the glycol eats the bands. I found this out 1000 dollars and 3 transmissions later
And yes when antifreeze and ATF mix, it looks like a strawberry milkshake.
I believe if Chrysler says to use the ATF+ whatever, I would run that and only that.
Cummins says we can burn kerosene, and jet fuel under emergency situations, but thats just that, an emergency situation.
Make for certain its the chrysler recommended fluid, check the TPS, and TV cable adjustment, and find yerself a better TC.
If ya have a pyro, u would know if yer turbo is shot, pulling that kind of weight u would be seeing HIGH EGT's I would immagine, that guy is totaly blowin smoke!
I think the higher RPM's would be a cause of the torque convertor, sucky stall rating, sucky fluid coupling, more throttle required.
I didnt read the whole post on the last tranny going. I had an 86 camaro for a little bit and the cooling coil in the Rad developed a crack and allowed antifreeze in the trans. the glycol eats the bands. I found this out 1000 dollars and 3 transmissions later
And yes when antifreeze and ATF mix, it looks like a strawberry milkshake.
I believe if Chrysler says to use the ATF+ whatever, I would run that and only that.
Cummins says we can burn kerosene, and jet fuel under emergency situations, but thats just that, an emergency situation.
Make for certain its the chrysler recommended fluid, check the TPS, and TV cable adjustment, and find yerself a better TC.
03-22-2007, 02:48 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Port Crane (Binghamton) NY
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tuckerdee got in there before I did and brought up a good point, I have read on here that the sensors n junk for the OD, will not kick in OD unless the fluid has rached a specified temp, so the heat exchanger on the block is probably a must have. I immagine there is a way to get around this by fooling the heat sensor. And a good add on trans cooler is a very good thing!
03-22-2007, 02:58 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here's what I have, exactly.
Exactly what Pheonix Retrans put in, including the HD Billet TC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...spagenameZWDVW
There ya go...
J
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...spagenameZWDVW
There ya go...
J
03-22-2007, 03:07 PM
#7
Adminstrator-ess
There's a lot of confusion about how the OD is controlled so I'll try to clear it up. The OD solenoid gets 12 volts on the blue wire any time the ignition is on. The PCM turns on the OD solenoid by grounding the other wire. The PCM determines whether or not to ground the OD solenoid by looking at the following inputs:
TPS (throttle position, adjustable)
VSS (speed sensor on trans or xfer case)
ECT (coolant temp sensor, must be over 60 degrees F for OD operation)
Transmission thermo switch (opens at 273 degrees F and locks out OD)
OD request signal (generated by pushing the OD button on the dash - this is a momentary switch with a light bulb controlled by the PCM, not a real switch)
Since you have a trans temp gauge, jumper the thermo switch.
TPS (throttle position, adjustable)
VSS (speed sensor on trans or xfer case)
ECT (coolant temp sensor, must be over 60 degrees F for OD operation)
Transmission thermo switch (opens at 273 degrees F and locks out OD)
OD request signal (generated by pushing the OD button on the dash - this is a momentary switch with a light bulb controlled by the PCM, not a real switch)
Since you have a trans temp gauge, jumper the thermo switch.
Trending Topics
03-22-2007, 03:27 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have a way to lock that TC? If not, that is were your reving and heat are coming from.
I don't remember if the PCM controls the OD or not, but if the PCM is totally shot, it might be keeping you from having OD engage properly. There are a few threads on here that discuss how to manually activate the OD and the lockup.
I don't remember if the PCM controls the OD or not, but if the PCM is totally shot, it might be keeping you from having OD engage properly. There are a few threads on here that discuss how to manually activate the OD and the lockup.
03-22-2007, 04:13 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok....codes....Looking for #'s still but here's the readings.
I will let you guys know as I now have the Thermo sensor in (found it). Gonna go drive it. Until then, the Dr. Trans said these codes were what showed up on the "Check Engine" light...
1. Battery Voltage too high when charging. (this is surely the Autozone Voltage Regulator I put in when we weren't charging...followed the directions on here for when the Computer Box goes out and stops voltage regulating).
2. No Voltage sense with ASD on. (I have NO idea)
3. Alternate field control circuit open - short. (This makes no sense to me...since open and short seem to contradict each other here, but this is what they read off to us. Now I'm looking for the invoice to see if they wrote anything more down to give clues.)
Any of this affect my situation at all?
James
1. Battery Voltage too high when charging. (this is surely the Autozone Voltage Regulator I put in when we weren't charging...followed the directions on here for when the Computer Box goes out and stops voltage regulating).
2. No Voltage sense with ASD on. (I have NO idea)
3. Alternate field control circuit open - short. (This makes no sense to me...since open and short seem to contradict each other here, but this is what they read off to us. Now I'm looking for the invoice to see if they wrote anything more down to give clues.)
Any of this affect my situation at all?
James
03-22-2007, 04:16 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Do you have a way to lock that TC? If not, that is were your reving and heat are coming from.
I don't remember if the PCM controls the OD or not, but if the PCM is totally shot, it might be keeping you from having OD engage properly. There are a few threads on here that discuss how to manually activate the OD and the lockup.
I don't remember if the PCM controls the OD or not, but if the PCM is totally shot, it might be keeping you from having OD engage properly. There are a few threads on here that discuss how to manually activate the OD and the lockup.
92 is a non-lockup TC. Ok, going to test-drive with the thermo in, will report back. Oh, and I did change out the fuel filter yesterday, and it seemed to make a difference, but without OD I can't tell how much.
James
03-22-2007, 04:21 PM
#12
Adminstrator-ess
I will let you guys know as I now have the Thermo sensor in (found it). Gonna go drive it. Until then, the Dr. Trans said these codes were what showed up on the "Check Engine" light...
1. Battery Voltage too high when charging. (this is surely the Autozone Voltage Regulator I put in when we weren't charging...followed the directions on here for when the Computer Box goes out and stops voltage regulating).
2. No Voltage sense with ASD on. (I have NO idea)
3. Alternate field control circuit open - short. (This makes no sense to me...since open and short seem to contradict each other here, but this is what they read off to us. Now I'm looking for the invoice to see if they wrote anything more down to give clues.)
Any of this affect my situation at all?
James
1. Battery Voltage too high when charging. (this is surely the Autozone Voltage Regulator I put in when we weren't charging...followed the directions on here for when the Computer Box goes out and stops voltage regulating).
2. No Voltage sense with ASD on. (I have NO idea)
3. Alternate field control circuit open - short. (This makes no sense to me...since open and short seem to contradict each other here, but this is what they read off to us. Now I'm looking for the invoice to see if they wrote anything more down to give clues.)
Any of this affect my situation at all?
James
03-22-2007, 04:24 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Port Crane (Binghamton) NY
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If a 47RH went in (according to the ad, in the link u posted) It is supposed to lock-up, thats not the right transmission for the year of the truck. If thats what u got put in (47RH) u got a good trans, but u need to put in a manual lock-up switch.
03-22-2007, 04:57 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
James
03-22-2007, 05:02 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
OK, so with the test drive (without the 5th wheel thusfar) it feels better than it has...but it still feels oddly a little "spongy" compared to when i bought the truck...like it doesn't have snap and like it COULD be slipping just a little teensy bit all the time...know what I mean? Like it isn't REAL solid, which is why I thought something still wasn't right with the trans, but then two trans places said "Trans is fine!"...So I started thinking it's SOMETHING with the turbo, or the injectors or something that is making it rev higher than it should. You know how you YOU KNOW your truck and where it should be revved at 70 empty and stuff, right? Well, with the new trans it seems high, and with the trailer it was definitely WAY too high...now it seems better, but I need to see with the trailer...I will keep you guys posted, but once again, any suggestions are deeply appreciated.
You guys are amazing...thanks!!!
James
You guys are amazing...thanks!!!
James