Top Dead Center Pin Thingie Question ??
On the son's truck, on the fire-wall side of the timing-cover, just under the injector-pump and just above the vacuum-pump, close to the block, WAS a plastic pin-thingie and a blob of dried-out silicone-goop.
When I investigated, the goop, along with the plastic pin, fell into my hand, leaving an open hole into the entrails of the timing-cover.
This plastic piece is about 1-1/2" long, about 3/4" diameter, peg-shaped on the end that was exposed, conic-shaped on the bigger end, with about a 1/8" long by 3/16" diameter "tip".
There is a green O-ring in a slot around the body.
Other than the goop of silicone, I see absolutely nothing to hold this in.
Is this the peg that locates TDC ??
I sort of expected it to be spring-loaded.
What retains this in the engine ??
Is something missing on this one ??
Please help.
Thanks.
When I investigated, the goop, along with the plastic pin, fell into my hand, leaving an open hole into the entrails of the timing-cover.
This plastic piece is about 1-1/2" long, about 3/4" diameter, peg-shaped on the end that was exposed, conic-shaped on the bigger end, with about a 1/8" long by 3/16" diameter "tip".
There is a green O-ring in a slot around the body.
Other than the goop of silicone, I see absolutely nothing to hold this in.
Is this the peg that locates TDC ??
I sort of expected it to be spring-loaded.
What retains this in the engine ??
Is something missing on this one ??
Please help.
Thanks.
yes thats the top dead center pin, its not spring loaded, it shouldnt pop out, i dont know what holds it in on the other side probaly a c clip, but you must of had to pull really hard to get it out, or its broken and the other piece is in the gear or at the bottom of the cranck case, just stick it back in there and see what happens if its really lose put some silicon on it
Joel
Joel
The circlip is kind of like a star washer that pushes into the plastic housing, after the pin. Its little teeth bite into the bore of the housing and prevent the pin from pulling right out of the housing. However, I've seen several that have the circlip missing, and there is enough friction on the pin's o-ring to prevent it from moving or falling out. Try installing the pin with a new o-ring.
The little tip isn't very long on the pin, seems to me they're only about 1/4 inch or so.
This is the only pic I could find, it shows the location of the pin, but you already knew that.
The little tip isn't very long on the pin, seems to me they're only about 1/4 inch or so.
This is the only pic I could find, it shows the location of the pin, but you already knew that.
Is that sorta oval-shaped base that has the hole for the peg removable, as in can I get it out on the work-bench in order to re-engineer the thing, or maybe just put a piece of solid plastic between it and the timing-cover that will seal off the hole and not worry with the peg ??
In the picture just posted above, it appears that there might be two screws that, once removed, will allow the hole thing to come off.
If so, I will just block off the opening and put the peg in the tool-box.
Thanks.
In the picture just posted above, it appears that there might be two screws that, once removed, will allow the hole thing to come off.
If so, I will just block off the opening and put the peg in the tool-box.
Thanks.
yep, two phillips head screws, but they are a real PITA to get at....
every CTD I have had, that pin has been broken off, adn I tried removing one to replace it, could never quite reach the top screw without stripping the slots out of it..
every CTD I have had, that pin has been broken off, adn I tried removing one to replace it, could never quite reach the top screw without stripping the slots out of it..
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Have you ever tried it with the injector-pump not on the engine ??
It's dark out there now, but I believe that, once I get an inch of grimy-gook gone so that I can actually see the screws, getting them out should be pretty straight-forward.
I just don't like to think about him driving around and that silly peg dropping out on the road, letting all the oil out.
Thanks.
Have you ever tried it with the injector-pump not on the engine ??
It's dark out there now, but I believe that, once I get an inch of grimy-gook gone so that I can actually see the screws, getting them out should be pretty straight-forward.
I just don't like to think about him driving around and that silly peg dropping out on the road, letting all the oil out.
Thanks.
It's dark out there now, but I believe that, once I get an inch of grimy-gook gone so that I can actually see the screws, getting them out should be pretty straight-forward.
I just don't like to think about him driving around and that silly peg dropping out on the road, letting all the oil out.
Thanks.

Mine were all broken off flush with the pin-mount, so there wasnt an open hole, you just couldnt use it...
never have been able to set valves with any certainty.....
Is that sorta oval-shaped base that has the hole for the peg removable, as in can I get it out on the work-bench in order to re-engineer the thing, or maybe just put a piece of solid plastic between it and the timing-cover that will seal off the hole and not worry with the peg ??
In the picture just posted above, it appears that there might be two screws that, once removed, will allow the hole thing to come off.
If so, I will just block off the opening and put the peg in the tool-box.
Thanks.
In the picture just posted above, it appears that there might be two screws that, once removed, will allow the hole thing to come off.
If so, I will just block off the opening and put the peg in the tool-box.
Thanks.
) and the holder and pin are installed. If you want to remove the holder to repair the problem, use the pin to set TDC and don't disturb the engine until you reinstall the pin/holder assembly.
If you take off the timing pin holder, it needs to be reset to TDC when reinstalled. At the factory the engine is set at TDC (or as close as the assembler feels like setting it
) and the holder and pin are installed.
If you want to remove the holder to repair the problem, use the pin to set TDC and don't disturb the engine until you reinstall the pin/holder assembly.
) and the holder and pin are installed. If you want to remove the holder to repair the problem, use the pin to set TDC and don't disturb the engine until you reinstall the pin/holder assembly.
Are those two little screws in slots or something ??
How do the people whose locater has sheared off ever set their valves ??
How about if I draw an outline around the base, remove it for repair, and replace it back in the outline ??
Or, if I just blank it off, will I still be able to set the valves occassionally ??
Thanks.
Are those two little screws in slots or something ?? There is appreciable slop.
How do the people whose locater has sheared off ever set their valves ?? You don't have to be perfectly on TDC to set the valves, just on the base circle of the cam will do.
How about if I draw an outline around the base, remove it for repair, and replace it back in the outline ?? I don't know how you're gonna see it to do that unless the pump is off the truck.
Or, if I just blank it off, will I still be able to set the valves occassionally ??
Thanks.
How do the people whose locater has sheared off ever set their valves ?? You don't have to be perfectly on TDC to set the valves, just on the base circle of the cam will do.
How about if I draw an outline around the base, remove it for repair, and replace it back in the outline ?? I don't know how you're gonna see it to do that unless the pump is off the truck.
Or, if I just blank it off, will I still be able to set the valves occassionally ??
Thanks.
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