On the larboard side of the pump, forward end, just behind the upper flange-bolt, just ahead and behind the forward end of the KSB, is a hex-head bolt, through a bushing/spacer, that is holding a pointy piece of about 5/8-wide by 1-inch long against a like-shaped protusion on the pump-housing.

The head of the bolt looks to be about 12-mm.

The bolt shows up real good in this picture, except the little pointy thingy is absent :

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/g.../photo_02.html

What is this bolt and pointy thing; what is it's purpose ??


Thanks.

 

Loosen the bolt and rotate the pointy thing so the bolt will go in farther and the pump will be locked in place--the bolt engages the straight cut gear on the pump's inpushaft to lock it.

 

thats so you dont lose the timming when you take the pump off

 

Where do I rotate the pointy-thingie to, in order to acheive this tightening effect ??

Is the surface of that pointy-thing sort of cam-shaped ??

I just ain't seeing in my thick head how simply rotating it will change the depth of the bolt.

Maybe if I could see the bolt and thingie out of a pump.

Thanks.

 

no, you losen the bolt remove that pointy thing then you tighten the bolt untill its tight, that pointy thng will fall right out

 

Right. And there's really no reason to use it. I've had pumps in and out over and over without locking the pump. There's enough play in the slots on the pump housing to compensate for any slight misalignment upon reassembly.

 

its an easy added security so you dont mess the timming up,

 

I'm with Greg, you really don't need it.

If you get a reman pump they are supposed to be locked at TDC#1. One thing though, if you do lock it, make sure you leave the pump loose untill after you torque the nut on the drive gear. The gears are helical cut and the pump has to rotate a little bit when it pulls into the gear, and the gear pulls back on to the pump. If you have the pump locked and tightened up it will turn the engine over when you tighten the gear. Could break the timing pin. In a perfect world you engage the timing pin and with the pump locked, and tightened up the hatch marks should be lined up.

 

The pump drive-shaft is KEYED to the gear that is in the timing-cover, so they are always going to be aligned.

When I remove the oil-tube bung, am I going to be able to see the gears inside, possibly with a mirror, good enough to paint-mark-identify the location of the gear-teeth, such that I am certain I am putting things back together just like they came apart ??


Once I get the pump off, I intend to dis-assemble it and replace every possible seal and O-ring, so at some point, I will have the drive-shaft out of the pump.

Once I have the pump off, maybe I can drop the timing-gear back on the drive-shaft, prior to un-locking the shaft, and mark it's orientation to the housing.

Thanks.

 

The drive gear does not come off with the pump. You have to pull it off the input shaft of the pump while it is inside the timing gear case, and leave it sitting inside the timing gear case.

If you are just going to take the pump off the truck, and put the same pump back on the truck, you do not need to lock the input shaft -- just mark the pump housing to timing cover, and reinstall the pump so the marks line up. You shouldn't need to worry about the gear moving in the timing case -- it is big and heavy enough that it isn't going to jump any teeth while taking the pump out, the key will align the pump with the gear, and your match marks will align the pump with the timing cover.

However, if you want to adjust the timing using a dial indicator to measure plunger lift while the pump is off the truck, you will need to set the engine to TDC, set the pump timing on the bench, lock the shaft, then put the pump onto the truck allowing the the locked shaft to determine the relationship between the pump housing and the timing gear case.

You also might find that if you remove the pump without locking the shaft, the shaft will "jump" when withdrawn from the drive gear, because it was at the top of the cams and the plunger return spring will want to kick the cam down to the bottom.

My opinion is that it's worth taking the pointy washer out from under the lock screw, and locking down the shaft for pump removal and installation, but no, you do not have to.

 

the case and pump housing are factory marked, to take it off and put it on lock the saft and put the pointy thing back in you need it to help put pressure on the the bolt to seal

 

So the drive-gear remains inside the timing-cover and is too big to come out the oil-tube hole, right ??

Thanks.

 

Yup. I use a screwdriver against the end of the IP shaft to make sure I don't drop the nut or lockwasher into the case.

 

completly off topic but Wannadiesel, what do you mean by "I Kll KDP's for fun" in your sig, im not fallowing the short term

Joel

 

he kills killer dowl pins for fun