NJTman

Have you guys experienced what you would call excessive lateral play in the throttle shaft assembly ? I went to adjust my TV cable, and found that the throttle assembly pivot has a lot of lateral movement. There is a plastic bushing inside there, but its only on the side of the shaft towards the drivers side. I think this is why I have so much play. Instead of holding the shaft in place during rotation, its moving or pivoting laterally.
How many bushings supposed to be in there? One on the outside or both inner and outer. They made the assembly serviceable with the removable rear clip

TIA

NJTman

Thanks Guys !

Lol

Just kidding....

So, I took the assembly apart again. There was no way I was able to properly adjust the TV cable because of all the lateral play in the shaft. It just wouldn't function properly, as when the accelerator was pressed, instead of pulling the arm back on the shaft, it was shifting laterally first. This meant that there was a delay in the actual application or pressure against the TV Cable hoop.

So,

After disassembly, I found that there are indeed 2 bushings. One front and one behind. I didn't know this until I reinserted the shaft back in the tube after removing the clip and washer. This pushed the nylon bushing out into my hand, which allowed me to clean and inspect it.

Once I had the arm / shaft assembly cleaned, I realized that the lateral play wasn't the bushings at all. They were in good shape, and didn't need replacing. The actual problem was the shaft / arm assembly itself.

Chrysler or Cummins, in order to save time, I guess, decided that a "press fit" was the way to assemble the shaft / arm assembly. Well, I guess it was loose forever, or just over time loosened up the "tightness" of the press fit where the shaft goes though the arm assembly plates. I first thought I would weld the two together, but after not being to easily access my welder, I thought why not "re press" the assembly together and see what happens. Worked like a charm. The bushings are in red arrows, and the solid blue arrow is the clip and washer that holds the assembly in the tube. Don't lose that clip, as you will be beating yourself up if you do.


Here you can see the shaft was pressed into the arm, (blue outlined arrow) and that juncture was actually just slightly loose. The third pic is the tube in which the assembly goes back into with the two nylon bushings.

NJTman

So, I fixed the assembly by taking two long sockets out of my tool chest, and used the two to "cold press" the two back together with my hammer. Took but a few smacks, and the assembly was tighter than the wallet of an old man at the grocery store.

The bushings are cleaned up, and greased before reassembling the assembly back together. Again, that clip needs to fit on the end of that shaft towards the engine block. Make sure it's on there before you let go. The clock spring catches the inner plate that's behind the outer arm assembly. Make sure that catches that inner plate as well.

Finally, how to set the TV cable properly to .180 or .457MM ?

Easy. make yourself a guide for it. I took an old paint can / bottle opener, and made the end tang exactly .180 of an inch. I then inserted it into the space between the rod and the TV Cable hoop. I left the return spring on, as it kept pressure on the new guide spacer I made, and then I locked the clip on the TV Cable assembly back near the firewall.

What happened ?


Truck actually shifts better now than it ever has. Go figure, eh ?

patdaly

Good write up!

cougar

I think I would have tack welded it.

freight train

NJT I don't want to come off like I am hijacking your awesome write up. The 93 D350 dad and I plan to finish off as a tow rig has a lot of slop on the stub on the pump itself. Not the part that the adjustment shaft snaps on but the stud that sticks up towards the hood and when the throttle is given it actually makes contact with a spring which almost has the stud worn completely in half. I remember a few years ago people said that on high mileage rigs that when that stud wore in half the throttle would not engage. One guy stating it literally it wore through when he stopped at a stop light. Then the truck just idled. If I am not mistaken at that time someone was selling a sleeve/cap that slid down over the stud which would save it and not require pulling the pump apart to switch that piece out. Two questions. One does everyone know which stud I am referring to? Whats that stud called? Second does anyone know where I can buy that sleeve/cap to install on the stud on our tow rig before it completely wears in half. Sorry again NJT for hijacking the thread.

jerseybud

NJT pretty much nailed it- I just went thru the same thing on mine with 300k miles

Once the plastic bushings wear away, the shaft metal starts wearing. I had to mig weld some new metal in mine and then slowly dremel it to "kind of" round and then finish polish it.

I ended up using a brass 5/16 sleeve from the local hardware store and used that instead of the plastic on my spare linkage. I suppose you could make your own "speedi sleeve" with some careful sanding and a very hot metal sleeve sliding over a very cold shaft, and still keep the plastic bushings, which are superior to the metal IMO

Also not the detents on mine were worn and I had to MIG the metal back into those as well, then file flat back to OEM specs

NJTman

I noticed what you are talking about when I did this work. The little pin that has the spring on it, that is supposed to act as some sort of delay on the pin. Mine had shiny metal on it, and looked as though the spring was wearing the pin away, just slightly. I quickly dabbed a blob of wheel bearing grease in there to hopefully stop any further wear. That speedy sleeve idea is the way to go, but obtaining the tubing might be a pain. I'm sure it's not a popular thing, and then if the outer diameter of the tube is too big, what do you do then ? It won't have the designed play in it anymore.

I would have tack welded it if my shop wasn't in such disarray. If it ever loosens up again, it's getting welded. For all I know, it will last another 200,000 miles.

Hey Freight train..

Is this the pin you are speaking of ? The spring is actually starting to wear into the pin on the upper side where the rust is on the spring leg. now it's packed with grease, but really ? How weird is that ?

freight train

NJT that is exactly what I was referring too. I know I saw something before that was a remedy. It must have been the absolute perfect size to fit between those two spring tabs. Does anyone know what that stud is called? And has anyone else seen the collar I am referring to? I would love to know where to get it. I did what you did in that I dabbed grease on it but that's not going to stop it at this point. There is so little meat left on the one on that tow rig. A collar fix would be the perfect fix.

jtamulonis

I fixed this same problem on my brothers Cummins a few years ago. I cut a short piece of 5/16" (as I recollect) steel tubing. the stuff you get at any parts house that has steel fuel line. after I cut it to length, with a tubing cutter, I had to file/ champher the inside of both ends so it would start onto the pin. it was a light tap fit onto the pin. I think I put some red loc-tite on the pin and inside the tubing and tapped it down. done ! if the pin was a little burred where the spring was wearing in you`ll need to file it smooth.

Hillbilly66

I am not aware of the collar repair. How ever I replaced that whole lever and spring a while back, ordered everything from Schied Diesel. I'll do some digging and see if I can find the part numbers tomorrow.

As for the throttle bell bell crank on the other end of the linkage, that NJT repaired, it is also still available from Cummins, but expensive, over $200 expensive I had to buy one a year ago as mine was way beyond repair. I have a post about the throttle linkage with part numbers if you do a search.


EDIT: Spring on pump is the break over spring. Will update tomorrow if I find the part numbers.

freight train

Hillbilly any Cummins part numbers you can provide would be perfect for future reference.

Jtamulonis are you sure it was only 5/16" as it seems smaller to me. I guess I can see if Napa has a small line. I thought maybe brake line might work but they are only available in 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, and 1/4. Do you happen to remember what the lines purpose was? It might shed some light on finding it. Either way thank you for your helpful information

NJTman

5/16 is available in fuel line,https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...6+steel+tubing


but again, I'd be curious as to how the outer diameter being larger than the pin would affect the function of the breakover spring. Not even sure just exactly what that does anyway.

Where's superman Jim Lane when you need him ?

freight train

Jim, can you please shed some light on what that breakover spring does?

How's a posi rearend in an old Plymouth work? IT JUST DOES!!!

Hillbilly66

Here are the Cummins numbers for the throttle bellcrank, spring, bushing, and the control rod. (Engine side)


And Bosch part numbers for the pump side. There are two levers on the pump, one has the little shaft the spring wears on. Like a dummy I didn't notate which p/n was which.

Adjusting Lever 002F002D12458.
(Not sure on this one with the letters, but it's printed on invoice like that)
Lever 0021461900580
Spring 0021464651430