SET pump Timing
Looking for help adjusting timing on inj.pump .Do I just loosen the bolts and turn it? IF so ,to advance top tord eng. or fender?Done all other mods to pump by reading all the good feedback from you all.I have two 92 cummins auto 250 and 350 both are for work. 1ton weights 10780lbs emty,and tow a 14000lbs trailer.Need all HP I can get .
There are 3-13mm nuts and 1-10mm bolt.
The 3 nuts are on the flange of the pump, and fairly obvious to see, with the very top and very bottom ones being a tad hard to reach. I loosen off the top and bottom till they turn easily, and the middle one, loosen, then just snug a tad.
The 10mm is at the bottom of and just back of the pump. The bolt actually faces the firewall.
It is on a bracket down there and needs to be loose.
Once that is done, you get a good grip on the pump and push like he$$.
If that don't work get a buddy to reach over the top and pull... if ya got no buddy then get a rubber mallet, and wack the AFC housing at the joint. Don't worry it'll be ok... just don't take a run at it.
You want to open the gap on the two index marks by about 1/8" .
BTW, the index marks are located at the middle of the pump flange and opposite that, on the gear case.
Try to avoid loosening all the other things, you'll need a special socket to get at the majority of fuel lines anyway...
Normally you can get it to move by using one or all of the above methods....
Bob.
The 3 nuts are on the flange of the pump, and fairly obvious to see, with the very top and very bottom ones being a tad hard to reach. I loosen off the top and bottom till they turn easily, and the middle one, loosen, then just snug a tad.
The 10mm is at the bottom of and just back of the pump. The bolt actually faces the firewall.
It is on a bracket down there and needs to be loose.
Once that is done, you get a good grip on the pump and push like he$$.
If that don't work get a buddy to reach over the top and pull... if ya got no buddy then get a rubber mallet, and wack the AFC housing at the joint. Don't worry it'll be ok... just don't take a run at it.
You want to open the gap on the two index marks by about 1/8" .
BTW, the index marks are located at the middle of the pump flange and opposite that, on the gear case.
Try to avoid loosening all the other things, you'll need a special socket to get at the majority of fuel lines anyway...
Normally you can get it to move by using one or all of the above methods....
Bob.
Originally posted by dodgeman01
what about a IH tractor engine which has the same pump and everything just on the other side of the engine? do you turn the pump away or two the engine.?
DM01
what about a IH tractor engine which has the same pump and everything just on the other side of the engine? do you turn the pump away or two the engine.?
DM01
It would depend on the gear train on the engine and if they have a pump designed to turn the opposite way. Try to find out what engine model.Boyd.
Thanks Bob,worked great.My timing marks were not lined up on each other from the start.They were neg. about a 1/6th and I put it 1/16+. Not even same truck,runs loooooots better. AMT
Bonus.... keep in mind that this is a general "rule of thumb" setting. It would be good to have it checked out properly next time you need a shop to do some work.
Also, the VE is made for different applications and with different rotational configurations CW, CCW.
I don't know about the tractor set up. That would be a cheap phone call to a shop though... give it a shot.
Pastor Bob.
Also, the VE is made for different applications and with different rotational configurations CW, CCW.
I don't know about the tractor set up. That would be a cheap phone call to a shop though... give it a shot.
Pastor Bob.
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If you pull the banjo bolt, don't do like I did the first time... don't loose the little crush washer that is against the pump top and banjo line.
Bummed me right out...
pb.
Bummed me right out...
pb.
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