I've done many, just never a big truck.

I usually use a dial indicator and set them toward the bottom of the range. New Timken begs on order.. bummer auto zone quit selling Timken this year. Looks like prior water damage on outer brging.
any suggestions. . I think the inner cone set driver is in my dana service set.. missing a few, hope it's there. Due to the size, perhaps using a press?
torque and back off for 0.003 inch of end play??

m

 

uh.....


Sticky ?????


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-seals-148798/


I assume you don't own a FSM ?

Geno's sells them on disc or paper format.

 

I have replaced the bearings on my hubs and just used a brass drift to install the new races. Or do as other have suggested in other threads....grind down the outside area of the old race and use it as a punch.

As for end play I usually do it by feel. Tighten them all the way down, spin the hub forward and backwards. Once tight I then start slowly backing off the nut until I can just "feel" some end play, but can't "see" it. Been doing it this way for many year, never had any bearings burn up on me.

Well had one bearing get pretty hot once. I was greasing the bearings in my hubs to give them lubrication...which I had done for years...and then the diff oil would eventually wash them out and be left with just gear oil in the hub. Well one time the grease slumped out of the bearings and caused a "d@mn" to form which kept the gear oil out of the hub. I stopped greasing the bearings after that. I just keep a small container of gear oil on hand and soak the bearings just prior to installing them and the hub. I also try and fill the hub with as much gear oil as possible before the final install.

 

Be sure to " dip " them after you get it all back together, don't ask me how catastrophic this can be if forgoten about.

 

Yeah forgot that part.

I will top up the diff fluid level, then jack up one side of the rear axle as high as I can get it to go without the opposite side coming off the ground, then wait 10 min. Lower the axle back down to level and wait another 10 min. Then do the same procedure on the other side. This helps load the hubs with fresh gear oil.

 

Have you guys every looked down the inside of an axle tube before?
Around here with the moisture and temps changes they are usually REALLY gross with rust and gunk.
I have made a clean out tool before that was basically a piece of re-bar and a half a fender washer welded together.

 

I figured an easy way to lube the bearings without grease. Do both or one axle bearing, then jack up one side of the truck, so the gear oil flows into the hub on the low side. I leave the truck angled for 10 to 15 minutes. It fills the hub right up. If I Did the other side, I reverse the jack. Finally, I level the axle, put a couple stands under, then,let the truck idle in gear for another 10. Never had any bearing failures after that.

 

Pretty sure I just said that 2 response up......

Oliver....yeah the Dana 60 rear in the crewcab when I bought it was like that. I screwed a big flat washer onto the end of a 2x2 and used that to scrape and clean out the axle tubes.

 

Never thought to clean out the tubes while I had it apart.

Reminds me that it's time to remove the air breather. Nipple on the axle tube and clean it out.

Every couple years, it seems

 

Great advice on cleaning the tube. I will do that too!

 

I do the same thing by driving one side up on the bank beside the driveway, then turning around and doing the other side.

 

"Have you guys every looked down the inside of an axle tube before?
Around here with the moisture and temps changes they are usually REALLY gross with rust and gunk.
I have made a clean out tool before that was basically a piece of re-bar and a half a fender washer welded together."

That's a great idea! I worked hard to clean the tubes when I did the diff-rebearing job. But the scale on the drivers side due to the vent tube was more challenging. I've been running synthetic post the bearing job and fluid looks quite clean with 30,000 miles on it and a few years. But now I'm doing the axle bearings as I guess some rusting was not caught previously.

Thought it needed brakes, but mainly outer bearings and new emergency cables. The brake lines look dry when replacing the wheel cylinders-perhaps a bad dump valve or a clog somewhere that I need to find. Probably give a brake pedal push prior to installing new cylinders?

 

I am glad to help.
I was freshening up my Dana 71 with 3.07s a several years ago. When I looked down the tube with a flashlight, all I could think of was all that crud going into my clean new bearings and flushing back into the diff with my fresh fluid. So I built that tool and scraped out as much crud as possible.
I always look into them now and see if they need a good cleaning while I have the axle shafts out.

 

That's my SOP too.

On big trucks I tighten the nut while, spinning the wheel, then back off a quarter turn. Never had an issue in the 20 years I've been wrenching on big stuff.

 

Maybe we can find someone who knows how to obtain Cab mount bushings.....