Still trying to get her dialed in. Just not sure about where to stop?
I adjusted the smoke screw in 2 turns, adj fuel pin 90# , adj power 1 turn.
NOTE: I adjusted one at a time and checked resullts.
WOW did the truck come alive. She did smoke alot from start and thru the
RPMs. I turned the smoke screw out 1 1/2 and that cleared it up.
Before I go further, can someone tell me what the power screw does to deliver more fuel? I am thinking it turns up the pressure on the pump? If so
will the pumps life be a trade off for all the extra power.
Would bigger injectors be a better way to deliver more fuel or am
I just way off in my thought.
I have read many posts about the adjustments and they all seam to start
with smoke, fuel pin, and star wheel first. Some of you guys don't go any further. I just couldn't believe the power gain from the pwr screw it seams that should be the first screw to adjust. Now I rambleing on and on.
Thanks for the support.

 

The full power screw moves the fulcrum point of the governor arm. It shifts the whole mechanism towards "more fuel" when you screw it in. That's why the idle goes up, and also why the pump can run away if you go too far.

 

Thanks Dave,
So the power screw brings on the fuel sooner?
and, or it delivers more fuel at upper RPM.

 

The power screw makes more fuel available at all times. The AFC assembly controls how much additional fuel is available when there is boost, and how much boost it takes to get that fuel. You bring on the fuel with your right foot.

 

Sooo how menny turns can you turn the screw in with out fear of it running a way(tell the govener stop it or untill the rods hang out ???)

I haven't stated to play with this screw yet but need to now the limit before it finds me!

 

I don't know how far you can go but I 'raised the idle' a little more today with the power screw and noticed that the high rpm stutter isn't there anymore in nuetral and the engine seems to idle down a little slower than yesterday. I cranked in the smoke screw until it was one thread below flush with the nut and WOW. I cannot compete with the big dogs yet but the porch is getting smaller.

 

It varies from truck to truck. The best thing to do is take the intake hose off the turbo before you start the truck, and get a board or piece of sheetmetal handy to slap over the turbo inlet. Fire up the truck and blip the throttle. If it "hangs" or starts rising instead of dropping right back to idle, shut 'er down by blocking the turbo inlet. Back the screw off a little and retry.

 

Will the govener catch it or will it over rev? I'm gessing that it will over rev if every one wand to have something to shut the air off?

Has any on let it rev and seen if the govener caught it,.. or if it over revved???

 

What happens in a runaway, basically, is the governor can't "catch up" to the fuel the pump is giving. The governor is effective not only to keep the engine from overrevving, but any time you are at constant throttle - the engine speed and your right foot's position determine the fuel the engine gets, so if you keep your foot in the same spot, under the same load, the governor "catches up" and keeps RPM's constant. The governor is an "engine speed control" that falls behind if you increase the fuel too much. The short answer is no, the governor won't "catch it" because it is already being overrun.








I think.

 

The reason it runs away is that there is no longer enough governor travel in the "defuel" direction.

I think Pastor Bob let one go, it went up to around 3800 and hung there. That's valve float territory for the stock governor springs.

I should have explained more thoroughly why you want to cut off the air supply. The manual lever pushes on the governor arm - which will already be in the "defuel" position, so it's not likely to kill it. If you shut the key off, the rubber tip on the solenoid plunger is likely to get ripped off due to the high case pressure. Cutting off the air is the safe, sure fire way to stop a runaway.

 

I think you can go way up before you will run away. At least that was in my case. I couldn't get the lock collar off the main fuel screw so I just took the whole thing out. Then I had no reference where to put it back. Well I guess I put it in too far cause my truck went like a raped ape and smoked like a moskito fogger. So I turned it back down some. That is my story and I am sticking with it

 

Thanks guys that what i wanted to now

 

How do you tell if the rubber tip ripped off? When I turned mine up it ran away, I had to shut it down 3-4 times before I got back home, and the return spring was broke.

 

If you turn the truck off with the key and it doesn't shut off but you can kill the motor with the lever on the side of the pump, your solenoid plunger thingie is ripped. I had to cable pull mine yesterday...