apache

Lookin for some go power, and was gonna up my injector timing 1/8". My factory marks are right on the money. But in an earlier post I read it might run a little cooler. Im startin to get a little worried, its warming up and this thing will climb in temp real easy. Ive done the radiator, thermostat(Cummins) flushed the block. I also installed a trans guage and a another cooler. Pulling the 7%x 4mile grade in O/D will get me 225+ trans fluid temps from the converter and a hot engine. Even out of O/D wont help much, summer here gets 100+ , I cant imagine using this to head out to the mountains pulling a camper and trailer. On a 93 is there 3 or 4 pump bolts? Is there something on back that needs to be loosened as well, like a slide bracket?? I was reading an old post and saw some things that didnt make sense.
And good lordy, how do you get at them nuts? got two, inner and outer, but the bottom one I cant get at? Is there a special wrench I can fab or buy?
Any help will be more than appricated.

Bushy

Do you have any idea what your water temps are like..????

The 225*F tranny temp is not a surprise... the auto's in these trucks run hotter than any of the later models... mostly due to the lockup convertor. If your tranny is in good shape, and it is properly adjusted, including your line pressure's you should be okay for short durations at that temp... just don't drag it out too long without allowing some cool down to normal operating temps... (roughly 180*F while working it)
If your EGT's are "in the ball park" and you're not lugging the engine down low, you should be ok...

Do not run over 1200*F for any extended period of time (1350*F 1 minute out of 5... you can go 1200*F pretty much as long as you like, BUT, you MUST watch your water temps if you're going to run at the safe/max EGT of 1200*F...

As for the pump, ya, it's a booger to get at a couple of the bolts..
There are 3 on the pump-to-cover flange. The top inside and bottom inside are the tough ones...
You may need to even "tweak" the fuel line at the front of the pump over a bit to reach the top/inside nut.
You can get a pump wrench from snap-on.. kinda pricey though....
It looks like a "S" in shape...
I think it's a 15mm nut...
Also there is another bolt that you need to loosen.
At the bottom/back of the injection pump there is a bracket. That bracket doesn't really look like it is part of the pump but it is...there is a 10mm BOLT that faces rearward.. that is, it has it's threaded part towards the firewall.
You need to loosen that off as well.
The trick to this is to loosen them ALL off, then just slightly snug the easy to reach, center nut on the pump flange...
From there you can tug, cuss, reef, yard, yank and use a rubber mallet to wack the pump upwards toward the engine head.
If you do it right, the "snug" nut will keep the pump from "popping" back on you.
It will be a challenge because of all the injector lines being tight, and the other odds 'N ends that are attached to the pump, but you can move it up without too much fear of damage.
You can actually "persuade" the pump by using a rubber mallet on the AFC housing right at the joint were it meets the pump top.
It's pretty solid and you can usually "break the pump loose" with this method.

Last,,,, make sure you have a set of baseline readings from your gauges. You just HAVE to have a comparison for judging your tweaks.... we've all learned that the hard way in one way or another.... trust us on this one...

Does that help any??? Maybe someone else can jump in here and cover off anything I've overlooked...OH !!!!, you can improve your temp issues by using a high flow air filter, and poking some 2" diameter holes in your stock air box... just cut the holes in the forward portion of the air box, and cover the holes with some screen door screening to keep the bugs and leaves out...more air = cooler temps...a good thing...

Pastor bob...

apache

Thank you for the info you have given me and everyone else. This rig is new to me and im working the bugs out so to speak. I havent installed a pyro yet. I base a lot of my calls off comparing the performance to my 2wd 93. Its kinda become a case of take the guages out, I dont wanna see anymore cause its got me worried, but with 175k its still going so it must not be that bad. The trans on flat ground runs at 180 or so. The motor temp, well its the stock guage and it runs at a little over the 1/4 up and will climb to 1/2 or higher empty on a hill. I did this on a trip a couple weeks ago and it was snowing that day. I would consider the guage to be off but I can say that the heat increases are enough to enguage the fan clutch. Again comparing to my 2wd it takes a lot for that to happen even towing ,and the temp guage also runs at 1/4 way up to just over 1/4 on a small grade. not to be to skitso, but breakdowns on the road are not an option for me, I like everything just so, know what I mean

2manydogs

This might sound too simple, but is there a lot of crud on the fins of the A/C condenser, intercooler and radiator? If you don't have compressed air, you can "backflush" with the fan & shroud off using the old garden hose. Also, it's not much of a job to take the grille off and the condenser will swing forward enough to get to the back of it. I know you have more bugs than me down there, and I have to do mine every summer. It makes a difference! Everybodys gauges read different, mine seem like they have a mind of their own! Good luck, Jim