Oil Drain HX35
Oil Drain HX35
So 3 months ago I put an HX35 on my 1992 dodge d-350. I love it, great improvement from the stock H1C. But since I've put it on I've had an oil leak from the oil return line. New gasket didn't help, so I'm thinking it has something to do with one of the 10mm bolts that bolt the oil return line to the turbo.
The bolt closest to the manifold is tight, but the bolt on the other side won't get tight at all, it's like it's stripped out.
Has anyone come across a similar problem after doing the turbo swap?
Also I noticed on the bolt that won't get tight, it has a decent amount of thread left until the top. Not sure how far the bolt is supposed to thread into the bottom of the turbo but it looks like the bolt is not long enough.
Appreciate any help y'all can give, Thanks!
The bolt closest to the manifold is tight, but the bolt on the other side won't get tight at all, it's like it's stripped out.
Has anyone come across a similar problem after doing the turbo swap?
Also I noticed on the bolt that won't get tight, it has a decent amount of thread left until the top. Not sure how far the bolt is supposed to thread into the bottom of the turbo but it looks like the bolt is not long enough.
Appreciate any help y'all can give, Thanks!
I noticed after doing my HX-35 swap, that my oil drain was leaking.
After pulling the drain tube I noticed the sealing surface at the turbo drain was not total flat.
I ground down the center a bit, so the area near the bolt holes could clamp better, added a new gasket, and…no leak.
Hope that helps.
After pulling the drain tube I noticed the sealing surface at the turbo drain was not total flat.
I ground down the center a bit, so the area near the bolt holes could clamp better, added a new gasket, and…no leak.
Hope that helps.
That is most likely your problem, especially if it is a used turbo.
Were it me, I would remove the turbo and bring it in to the work-bench, clean and chase the female threads with a tap, and closely inspect the offending bolt.
To the best of my knowledge, the two bolts should be identical.
After chasing the female threads, I would mount the drain flange and carefully try the good bolt in the position that is causing problems.
If the good bolt tightens down properly, I would discard the bad bolt and get another.
If the good bolt also refuses to tighten, my next move would be to re-thread the bad hole to the next largest size, which may or may not be metric.
If clearance is an issue, you may have to file the larger diameter bolt head down to fit whatever socket that fit the original bolt.
While you have everything on the bench, it may also benefit you to true the flange by pressing it on a sanding belt, preferably of a finer grit.
Thanks for all the replies guys. I must say I am very overall pleased with DTR. I've been on CumminsForum for about 4 1/2 years. It's a good forum but I definitely find DTR a lot more informative. Also a lot more write ups on here compared to CF!
Anyway, back to the topic... So I took a few pictures so y'all could see. Bear with me as I try to upload them lol
Anyway, back to the topic... So I took a few pictures so y'all could see. Bear with me as I try to upload them lol
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Right?! I feel the same way. I have posted numerous questions & hardly anyone would answer. I end up having to search through DTR to find what I was looking for. They defiantly have a lot more showing off threads than helpful threads lol
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