crunchybuttr

As of last Thursday i'm the proud poppa of a 1990 W-350, AT, stock, 123000 miles on the odo, red as the devil. This is my first diesel, and I want to do it right, so what's the first order of business. I'm using it as a work truck... I'm a landscaper, and I don't want to hotrod the thing, but I definitely want to give it a little mmmpfh. Also, I don't know how much longer the trans is gonna give me... it shifts a little rough. ALSO, the back brake drums are leaky (rusty, too) and I get a real "bumpy" slowdown from high speeds (I don't know if these are related). Any words of wisdom?
Mike

apwatson50

First put this in your profile.

Plenty of things you can do to give you more "mmpfh" just search for adjusting the injector pump this is easy and free don't go too much without a EGT guage though. Especially since you are non intercooled. I would definately look into installing a intercooler. Open up the exhaust, at least get rid of the muffler.

For the brakes their just like any other drum brake except when you go into them get 1-ton wheel cylinders from a chevy 1-ton and install them. being a 350 it should already have the 3in wide shoes but if not install them.

explain

92DIESEL

Welcome abord Mike. Congrats on the truck.
I would say the first things to do are
1- change all fluids
2- get gauges (pyro is the most important)
3- change seals in rear drums (its probably rear fluid your leaking)
4- adjust throttle linkage to get max travel
5- 16cm housing for turbo would be nice (less spool up time)
6- tweak pump for more fuel
7- get a BHAF(air filer)

This is just for starters and by no means "hot rodding"
Your truck slows down just like mine. If your drums have fluid in them then you must change the shoes... so while your at it get the drums turned and get the 1 ton wheel cylinders and 12"x3"shoes. you'll stop better from what I've been told.

Good luck,
Michael

PS ask as many questions as you need to in order to get your truck the way you want it. The guys on here are really knowagable(sp) and will answer your questions.

andyr354

welcome to the club!

First things first is a good service.
Change diff fluids, trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, engine oil and filter, check the belts, power steering fluid, ect..

Might want to have the valve clearance checked if the prev owner didn't have it done.

By bumpy slowdown do you mean in kinda shimmies in the steering while braking?

lovemysan

Being a work truck, I would first get all the maintenance squared away. Then I would swiss cheese the air box and remove the muffler. After that I would get a pyro. From there one turn on the power screw and 2 turns on the AFC screw to get you started. From there I would go with a governer spring at that point it will make respectable power.

crunchybuttr

Thanks to everyone for their replies, I'm on the fluid changing and rust painting tip right now... brakes maybe this coming weekend. Forgive my naivitie, but what's all this about a power screw... you just turn it and get more power? Sounds like magic. Does mileage suffer? Thanks for the patience.
Mike

Nuttymopar

I would also adjust the Tranny Bands while changing your fluid. It might allow the tranny to last a little longer. Easy to do but the readings are 72 INCH per pounds, not foot per pounds. One is outside the tranny, other is inside, under the filter.

Micaiahfied

yes, it is as "simple" as turning the full power screw and getting more power! the screw itself is not the easiest to get to but it's free. Mileage will only suffer if you floor it. when you turn the screw imagine what was full throttle is now only 3/4 throttle, don't drop it to the floor and milage shouldn't drop, but at the same time the power is there when you need it. BUT as others have said... when you add fuel you add heat, you need to know how much, get a pyrometer before you mess with any extra fueling just to be wise. here is one link that will help explain turning up the VE

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

crunchybuttr

Well, as soon as I get it together, I'll treat myself myself a pyro guage. Meantime, I'm gonna straght pipe the exhaust. What's the proper cooldown idle time for a non-intercooled truck like mine? I've looked into the intercoolers, but it might just have to wait. Anyway, thanks for everyone's continued input... You'll find that I'm a never-ending fountain of questions.
Mike

wannadiesel

If you haven't been working it, it'll cool down in 30 seconds. 3 minutes is the most you'd have to wait even if you'd been working it had.