lincmercguy

Last month I picked up a '03 2500 with the SO 5.9L, 6-spd manual, and 4x4. I've been lurking this board for a week now learning and getting information on maintenance. I have a couple of questions about the truck and maintenance. It is not modified, and I most likely will not modiy it. I do some light towing now and then (at least light for this truck).

1. I've read about the problems with the original style lift pump and the in-tank retrofit. I'm trying to find out which I have. I don't see anything resembling a lift pump on the filter housing, but I'm not certain. Does anyone have any pictures of the lift pump or in-tank style so I can see what the difference looks like?

2. I've read quite a bit about fuel filters, and figure I'll change mine soon since I don't know when it's been done. I've read that the Baldwin ones are pretty good. I know some of you guys run at least 3 or 4 dozen filters but I will stay with the stock setup. Associated diesel has a kit with a fuel, air, and three oil filters from Baldwin: "Kit - Contains 3 BT7349 Oil Filters, 1 PF7977 Fuel Filter, and 1 PA4162 Air Filter". I know Dodge was picky on their oil filters. Does this kit fit the bill? It's selling for about $45, which seems decent. I would rather order online than spend time finding everything in the truck stop.

3. I figured I would just run the Rotella 15W40 oil that's pretty cheap at Sam's Club. Is that decent oil, or should I shell out the bucks for the synthetic 5W40? It seems that 15W40 would fit the bill for the temps I'm in (Colorado) according to the owner's manual. Like I said, I'm not loading this engine down to what it's capable of, probably towing 10k Lbs at the most.

4. I changed the front and rear diff fluid last weekend, and just put the regular valvoline 75W90. Do most folks run this, or do you guys run the synthetic stuff? Either way, is there a cheaper place to get it besides Advance Auto Parts, and in bigger quantities than 1qt?

5. I went to the dealer to get the local government required, rip-off emissions test. Before they hid the vehicle VIN report from me, I was able to see that the "Engine" warranty was good for 10 years/100K miles. Does anyone have anymore information on that warranty? It would be nice to know if I was still under warranty for 20k miles.

6. I've read a couple of posts about the valve lash adjustments, what is the interval on that? Is there a good write-up on it out there? I'm new to diesel engines that aren't painted green, so I'm still getting used to the different valve noises at different RPM's. I don't really know what's normal and what's not, so I thought checking the lash might be a good idea. Any opinions, or am I just being paranoid (as usual) ?

Thanks in advance, glad to find a board that has a lot of good information.

Rammin3500

if ur truck has is the same as mine, i have an 04 3500, the fuel filter is on the driver sid eof the engine, right by the steering rack, there should be a black plsatic looking cylinder shape on the side of the filter housing that is your lift pump, sorry i dont have any picutres of it though.

98whitelightnin

Did you look on the drivers side of your valve cover, I thought that only H.O. motors came with 6 speeds. If there is a local cummins dealer you can get fleetguard filters which are made by cummins for cummins. For about a dollar more a gallon get 3 gallons of valvoline premium blue 15w40, its also recomended by cummins. The valvoline 75w90 is good oil and you should be able to buy it buy the gallon or something equal. As far as I know these trucks are 5 year 100 k warranty so you should have a few months left. I dont know about the valves but these things rattle pretty good all the time so good luck and welcome to the site.

Adaminak

Welcome aboard,

If you dig too hard, you'll see volumes of information about oil: best brand, synthetic vs. blend vs. regular, and everyone has a valid point. I've run all of them, and when I lived in Colorado Springs, I never had problems with Rotella 15W40 or DELO 15W40. If you live in the mountians where it gets below 0 on a regular basis, you might consider a synthetic, or just plug the truck in for a few hours before you start it.

I've run Baldwin, Napa and Fleetguard filters (air, oil and fuel) with no problems. Only thing to absolutely stay away from is Fram oil filters (neoprene in the filter can plug the oil cooling injectors and fry your pistons). I prefer to buy the fleetguard filters in bulk from an online vendor (I'll send a PM because I dont want to violate any forum rules)

Your truck came with AAM axles filled with synthetic lube from the factory. I believe it's a requirement to run synthetic in them to control the heat buildup associated with the design. I don't think the manufacturer would spend the extra money for synthetic if it wasn't absolutely necessary. I also think this is one place synthetic makes sense...it's not that much more expensive, and it'll certainly last another 50K miles.

You don't mention changing transmission fluid. I'd worry far more about draining and refilling the tranny than I would about the valve adjustment. Do a search and you'll find most people overfill by 1qt or so. I used Redline MTF in mine, overfilled until it reached the top PTO cover hole, and have had no problems whatsoever. Tranny shifts better than new.

The valve adjustment process is pretty straightforward, and a barring tool (used to manually turn the engine over) is a huge help. I'd try to explain it, but there are several good write-ups already on the site, and a few have pictures.

Again, welcome to the site and welcome to the world of the Cummins. Prepare yourself for the slippery slope ahead

Jeff in TD

As far as valve service interval goes, I think the Dodge book says first check at 100k, and every 150k after that. Cummins I think lists every 150k.

Regarding axle fluid, the manual does specify full synthetic 75W-90 GL5.

I think most of us run fleetguard filters, but the Baldwin fuel filter would also be a good choice.

03's had a stamped steel alternator bracket that were known to crack (mine did). Some of them also developed a buzz or vibration in the pedals/dash right at 2000 RPM. An updated hose between the power steering pump and the pressure side of the brake booster with a weight and crimped metal fitting mid-run was the solution.

Anyway, enjoy the truck.

lincmercguy

I didn't see anything like that attached to the fuel filter housing. The original style lift pumps were electric then? It sounds like it's been retrofitted, I'll try to get a picture of it tonight. Thanks.

lincmercguy

I'm north of Denver, so it doesn't get that bone chilling cold that often. It's also garaged overnight, so I think the 15W40 from Rotella will probably be my choice.

I've heard that about the Frams. On my gas enignes, I ran motorcraft or Fram for a long time without problems, but it sounds like something that the diesel puts in the oil overtime eats the guts out of the Frams. If you can send me the PM about the fleetguard, I would appreciate it. I also assume that the Baldwin I listed is a water separator as well.

As for the axles, I'll have to check again, but I thought they were corporate axles. I know the front is a 9.25", and I think the back is a Dana 60. The owner's manual didn't mention anything about synthetic, but it does have the change interval at 15k for the axles. If I could run synthetic for longer, it would make sense money-wise. I'd just like to find a better price than Advance Auto Parts.

I'm planning on changing the transmission fluid soon. Autozone had the Penzoil MTL that says it's good for the specific Mopar P/N for the 6-spd. Unfortunately, they only had two quarts, so I have to wait until they get some more in.

Thanks for the info!

98whitelightnin

People on here that have tried the penzoil mtl said it didnt shift well. Alot of people run redline, amsoil synchromesh, or royal purple synchromax, all synthetics. Get 6 qts and over fill buy one qt.

Dodgezilla

And as was already mentioned, if you have a 6-speed then you were lucky enough to have gotten an HO. SOs only came with 5-speeds if you got a manual.
If you got an 03 then you have AAM axles. 02 was the last year Dana axles were put in these trucks....
All capacities and parts you will need are the same...

lincmercguy

Ah, OK. I just didn't se the HO mark on the valve cover. Is there a specific VIN code for the HO?

So the AAM axles require synthetic only? I'll check the extra bottle I have to see if it's synthetic. Hopefully, I didn't throw $40 down the drain.

lincmercguy

Well crap, the diff oil I used wasn't synthetic, so I threw $40 down the drain. I'll have to take a little time to find better than $8/qt for run-of-the-mill synthetic.

I do have the HO engine according to the VIN, I guess they didn't make a big deal of it with the badges that year.

Jeff in TD

I think I'd change the axles out with some Redline or whatever.

In addition to the VIN, there should also be a tag on the front of the engine. 305 hp I believe is the HO.