New to board and general 12V questions
My name is James and I've just signed up. I've been doing some rounds, so you'll see similar posts other places if you post/read multiple boards.
I'm looking to get a new truck, my current one is not up to par (never was(98 S-10)). I know I want a turbo diesel and, after doing some research, I've decided that it's prety much got to be a Dodge Ram CTD. The plan was at the end of this year, but it may be sooner then that if I can find something sweet sooner.
I'm a country boy at heart, so the truck has to be 4x4, plus the winters here can be pretty harsh, I may find myself plowing a bit.
I'm not new to turbos at all, but I am to diesel performance. I understand the basics, perhaps even more. But I need some advice on what to get. I'm going to get a 2500 because this will be my daily driver, so milage is a concern, as well as not needing the capabilities of a 1 ton.
I know the truck is going to get modded pretty good. I think low 14's, high 13's will make me happy, as would gas milage comperable to my current DD.
So, onto the questions. First, there seems to be many more auto's then manuals for sale, is a valve body upgrade going to be enough with my perfrmance goals, or will I need more? And if I get a 5 sp, is it going to hold with only a clutch? Next, milage: I saw a very well priced 5 sp with 250K on it. I'm a little weary of the milage, but have heard that these motors (with the exception of the KDP) have a great life span. Am I okay to to buy one with that much milage and just replace the tranny (or clucth?) with the savings? Also, how is this thing going to be in the winter? we hit 10 below a few times this past winter, I often times have to be at work at 6AM, I can't afford to have gelling/no start issues (should I stop looking at a diesel altogether?), the lack of glow plugs has me wondering.
Also, why is it that the 12v is perfered for performance over the 24v? It would seem that the extra flow potential of the heads would offset quite a bit. Or are there diffrences in the block design?
Thanks in advance for the help, and I appolagise for the long post, expect a plethora of questions from your answers
I'm looking to get a new truck, my current one is not up to par (never was(98 S-10)). I know I want a turbo diesel and, after doing some research, I've decided that it's prety much got to be a Dodge Ram CTD. The plan was at the end of this year, but it may be sooner then that if I can find something sweet sooner.
I'm a country boy at heart, so the truck has to be 4x4, plus the winters here can be pretty harsh, I may find myself plowing a bit.
I'm not new to turbos at all, but I am to diesel performance. I understand the basics, perhaps even more. But I need some advice on what to get. I'm going to get a 2500 because this will be my daily driver, so milage is a concern, as well as not needing the capabilities of a 1 ton.
I know the truck is going to get modded pretty good. I think low 14's, high 13's will make me happy, as would gas milage comperable to my current DD.
So, onto the questions. First, there seems to be many more auto's then manuals for sale, is a valve body upgrade going to be enough with my perfrmance goals, or will I need more? And if I get a 5 sp, is it going to hold with only a clutch? Next, milage: I saw a very well priced 5 sp with 250K on it. I'm a little weary of the milage, but have heard that these motors (with the exception of the KDP) have a great life span. Am I okay to to buy one with that much milage and just replace the tranny (or clucth?) with the savings? Also, how is this thing going to be in the winter? we hit 10 below a few times this past winter, I often times have to be at work at 6AM, I can't afford to have gelling/no start issues (should I stop looking at a diesel altogether?), the lack of glow plugs has me wondering.
Also, why is it that the 12v is perfered for performance over the 24v? It would seem that the extra flow potential of the heads would offset quite a bit. Or are there diffrences in the block design?
Thanks in advance for the help, and I appolagise for the long post, expect a plethora of questions from your answers
Do you know what kind of $$ you want to spend?
Cab size?
The performance you want will require a valve body and a torque converter.
No issues with cold weather, but it would be good to plug it in. The cummins has a much better imho system than any glow plug system.
Mileage is only affected by your right foot and some mods increase mileage.
just my .002
welcome to the site
Cab size?
The performance you want will require a valve body and a torque converter.
No issues with cold weather, but it would be good to plug it in. The cummins has a much better imho system than any glow plug system.
Mileage is only affected by your right foot and some mods increase mileage.
just my .002
welcome to the site
Hello
well u are on the right track, a 12V is easily modified, adn there is so much that you can do to it to get it to run the way it should. Now, im not totally biased in anyway, although i do drive a 12V, i do like 24's too, 24V's are all electronic and can really be waken up with just a fueling box, take your pick from all the available brands, a 12V, needs a GSK, a different plate, or just push your stock plate forward, and ull gain 30 or so horses!
Air delivery is very restrictive in stock form, some kind of ram air is or should be in order. 250 K? mileage, shes just gettin broken in, i cannot attest to an auto tho, but for a manual, you will need a good clutch for sure, to hold that kind of power, my current setup supports the stock clutch under just regular driving, on the dyno, or getting on in really slips the clutch, i have pushed it once to 376 and 902 at the rears, with just a zero plate, and have played with it with a 100 plate and 370 injectors, (which are another power option) HOLY COW! the clutch nor the turbo liked the extra fuel..
Starting issues, cannot help you there with a 12V in cold winters, mine starts with just the turn of the key and a quick dab of the throttle easily even in 30 degree weather, although i do cycle my grid heaters (no glow plugs in the cummins)
at least one time.
I know of a cummins with 365K on the clock still runs like a champ.. Id say jump on it, and just keep up with it. Dave LX88 just bought a truck here with 270K and it runs solid.. pm him for details..
Mine is fairly new still with 165K on the odo.. but that means she has alot of life left...
12V more popular, yes, its cheaper to modify, easy to work on due to being all mechanical, (yeah right.. my pcm gave out...) For the most part they are just like big tinker toys, easy to find and replace parts on them, (everything to the left hand side of the master cylinder..)(when lookin under the hood....) they are more bullet proof, very forgiving in stock form, and tend to give more tq than 24V's do.. I dont like electronic gizmos so thats why i dont tinker with 24V's although they are sweet..
Hope all this helps you!
Have a good one
Where are my manners??? Welcome to DTR new friend! and best of luck in your truck search...
Tx
well u are on the right track, a 12V is easily modified, adn there is so much that you can do to it to get it to run the way it should. Now, im not totally biased in anyway, although i do drive a 12V, i do like 24's too, 24V's are all electronic and can really be waken up with just a fueling box, take your pick from all the available brands, a 12V, needs a GSK, a different plate, or just push your stock plate forward, and ull gain 30 or so horses!
Air delivery is very restrictive in stock form, some kind of ram air is or should be in order. 250 K? mileage, shes just gettin broken in, i cannot attest to an auto tho, but for a manual, you will need a good clutch for sure, to hold that kind of power, my current setup supports the stock clutch under just regular driving, on the dyno, or getting on in really slips the clutch, i have pushed it once to 376 and 902 at the rears, with just a zero plate, and have played with it with a 100 plate and 370 injectors, (which are another power option) HOLY COW! the clutch nor the turbo liked the extra fuel..Starting issues, cannot help you there with a 12V in cold winters, mine starts with just the turn of the key and a quick dab of the throttle easily even in 30 degree weather, although i do cycle my grid heaters (no glow plugs in the cummins)
at least one time. I know of a cummins with 365K on the clock still runs like a champ.. Id say jump on it, and just keep up with it. Dave LX88 just bought a truck here with 270K and it runs solid.. pm him for details..
Mine is fairly new still with 165K on the odo.. but that means she has alot of life left...12V more popular, yes, its cheaper to modify, easy to work on due to being all mechanical, (yeah right.. my pcm gave out...) For the most part they are just like big tinker toys, easy to find and replace parts on them, (everything to the left hand side of the master cylinder..)(when lookin under the hood....) they are more bullet proof, very forgiving in stock form, and tend to give more tq than 24V's do.. I dont like electronic gizmos so thats why i dont tinker with 24V's although they are sweet..
Hope all this helps you!
Have a good one
Where are my manners??? Welcome to DTR new friend! and best of luck in your truck search...
Tx
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