G1625S

Well, I finally nudged the pump so far that with the KSB engaged, I could not drive the truck. I had to pull over 100 yards from my driveway and yank the pump back Sounded like a huge chain being dropped on a concrete floor over and over again I pulled just enough timing out so that with the KSB doing it's thing, it's pretty rattly, but once the KSB backs off, it's pretty much normal. My question is, how much advance does the KSB add? I've heard 5 and 7 degrees mentioned. I wonder at what degree they get real noisy? Say, for instance, my static timing was set at 14 degrees. If the KSB added 7, that would put me at 21 till things warm up...I just wonder what 21 sounds like? Just thinkin out loud. Time to tear the pump down and mess with the timing pistion, I guess Timing will only clean up so much smoke, though...I have to bite the bullet and buy some more air...

wannadiesel

21 sounds pretty harsh at idle. Kinda like a bunch of guys with hammers rapping on the head.

The 12 valves I've heard start to sound pretty nasty around 18 degrees.

I wish I knew the answer to your question for sure. Like you, I've heard both 5 and 7 degrees mentioned.

G1625S

''21 sounds pretty harsh at idle.''

Idle wasn't too bad, actually, but as soon as I began to (gingerly) run up through the gears, I knew I had gone too far. Maybe it has something to do with the early style piston, too.

rockjeep73

Can you actually go to far with the timing, besides from the harsh sound, what else is affected by running that much timing? what does it do to the power?

keithplacervill

when i got my truck it was a dog off the line but watch out on freeway it was fast so i started looking and found the pump as far as it could go so i put it where it should be got great low end but lost top end so i guess it would be a power hose at top end but suckREALLY bad at low end

cLAYH

For awhile I had my pump pushed all the way against the head then pulled back 1/4 inch. It ran great when unloaded but with just my 1500# camper on I would hit the H on the temp gauge whenever I pulled an incline.

Now its set to 15*(checked with a light) and still makes good power but the engine temps are much lower, BUT with my camper on pulling the Jeep on a trailer, the engine temp still gets hotter than I like. I may end up pulling it back some more to see it it makes a difference. If it doesn't I may have to upgrade my tranny cooler.

Stomp

My last stock pump on my pickup was set at 23* static timing and with the switch on it would advance it 4* so I was at 27* of timing. On the dyno it didn’t really improve the power that much. I can’t remember right off hand so I will say somewhere around 10hp +/-. With my last KTA pump I had 20* static and with the switch on I saw 7* of timing and with a 56-64hp increase. Now that’s a big jump. You could actually feel it. The more fuel you are pushing the more timing is you are going to need. Yeah you could run it at 15* no matter what, but if you are looking for numbers you want the timing up there. I have no clue where mine is at right now, but it is very high well it sounds that way anyways. I am going to check it tomorrow. We didn’t skip a tooth so I have no clue as to why it sounds this way. I like the option of having the KSB give you the extra timing when you want it, but I am not going to use it that way anymore. It is actually unhooked for right now. Along with jacking up the timing it also raises the case pressure which could have some effect as to why I lost the first KTA pump. Jury is still out on that idea. When I check it I will set it a little low so I can have some room to play with it on the dyno. If it will not go high enough then I am going to have to jump a tooth. We were going to shave the piston, but I didn’t know exactly what we wanted to do so we didn’t. If I take this pump off again I will try that. That would be the best of both worlds.

Stomp

cLAYH

With your last stock pump at 23* did you ever tow with it? Just trying to determine if my high engine temps when towing are from the advanced timing(ie increased combustion pressures) or inadequate tranny cooling crossing over to the engine coolant.

I had zero cooling problems unloaded with the timing pushed right up but add a load and the temps just went nuts. Reducing the timing back to 15* made it livable but when it was set at stock I could never get the coolant temps past the 3/4 mark, very rarely went past the 1/2mark.

G1625S

cLAYH, I think you may want to look into a coolant flush and have your radiator checked...also, the factory temp gauge is about as reliable as the factory oil psi gauge...you may want to invest in a mechanical water temp gauge in order to know for sure. You will dump more heat into the cooling system as you advance the timing. Any timing bump will give a noticiable HP gain, as STOMP pointed out, and when you go to use that extra HP in a steady manner (towing) that extra HP will produve more heat. Having said that, I've got my pump gear advanced a tooth and the pump pushed pretty far (hence this thread) and I recently towed, grossing 15, 200. Not a lot by stock standards, but I've got the weenie radiator, no I/C, crappy turbo etc etc. I couldn't get the temp gauge to move except on the longest pull coming out of Scranton on I-81N. I do, however, have a new radiator...food for thought anyway.

STOMP, thanks for weighing in on this one. Do you use an injector line pickup to get your timing #'s? I think with the fuel you have the timing is necessary up top, but for mostly stock guys like me, the lead time just isn't needed as the stock-ish VE is running out of juice up in the RPM band. I'm mostly playing 'cause it's free to tune on the truck...

cLAYH

I already did install a mechanical guage actually. It pretty much mirrors the factory one, just a little quicker reacting. I've been thinking that a rad flush maybe in order as well.

Is your truck a manual or automatic?

skchevota

How are you guys checking your timeing via a timeing light?

G1625S

''Is your truck a manual or automatic?''
Manual. With no AC either. Cool air gets a straight shot to the radiator in my case, and is probably my saving grace when towing. I guess that's why it's called the work truck package

skchevota--I checked mine initially with a dial-indicator at 1.65mm plunger lift which equals who knows how many degrees, hehe. I've been playing with it from there, but marked my reference of 1.65 so I know approx. where I am.

Stomp

cLAYH- I never did tow anything when it was set up that high. I did tow the dump trailer, but that was on the ranch where I didnt get out of 2nd gear. I do notice that it takes longer to get the egt's down below 300*.

G1625S- Yes we have been using an injector line pickup with the timing light. I checked it today and it was at 24*. I plan on backing it down to about 20* and then when I get this pump broke in I will put it on the dyno and play with the timing when we max out the pump

Stomp

Bushy

The timing light method requires a pizoelectric (sp?) sensor that connects around #1 injector line, which in turn, feeds a normal timing light. From there you you find your TDC and mark the harmonic balancer. You also make a pointer outta something a welding rod or coat hanger...from there it's cake...

pb...