I resealed my IP never rolled motor and locked the pump.
I can not get it to start now.

Any Ideas?

 

Did you lock the pump before you removed it?

 

Yes
I did unlock it to see if I could rotate the pump by hand but could not I did mark the shaft it did not move...

I got it to start but I had to hold it to full throttle and it ran rough rough..
Could I have screwed up something in the pump?

I did have this out if I put that in wrong 180 out could that be my problem?

and the governor adjustment. If I did not get that in right could that be a problem.

Also installed a M&H m3 fuel pin and dymanic timing advanced

 

Sounds like the thottle index is off if it will run at WOT. Or the full load screw isn't in far enough.

 

You said you locked the pump prior to removal. Did you find TDC on the motor and keep it there?

Throttle indexing. It's a common thing to overlook or forget positioning of. Rotate it clockwise to the next mark and go from there. I'm sure you left the idle screw alone as well? No reason to remove it or the high-idle screw for a reseal.

In the picture, are you asking about the camplate position?

 

where should this pin be in relation to the wooddurf key?

 

According to the rebuild thread in the sticky, it should be in the same position as the woodruff key/keyway of the pump driveshaft.

 

could not find in on the sticky but thank you.

next question is it a bear to bleed the air out of the fuel?
still will not start........

 

The air should bleed out of the injection pump naturally. Bleeding it out of the injector lines requires you to loosen the fittings at the injectors. I usually run all of them down finger tight, place a rag over the injectors, large enough to cover them all to keep fuel from spitting all over the place and keep clean-up to a minimum. Then, disconnect the shutdown solenoid, crank the motor for anywhere from 5-10 seconds. Pull the rag aside and check for fuel around the injectors. If it looks like an ample amount, tighten up the fittings with a 17mm wrench, re-connect the shutdown solenoid and start the truck. It may idle a little rough but you can bring up and hold the RPM's around 1500 to purge any remaining air out of the lines.

 

I second checking the throttle indexing. Jim lane explains it in the leaky fuel pin write up in the stickey.

It takes a lot to turn the pump shaft when the pump is assembled.. You can't turn it by hand. You would need a ratchet on the shaft nut. Also these pumps don't really require pulling the motor to tdc. It only goes on one way. As long as u didn't remove the timing gear and you made sure to line the internals of the pump back up you are good to go. I would bet its just the throttle shaft is indexed wrong. You should have also indexed the manual shut down lever.

 

if it runs fine at higher throttle it's probably the indexing. It could be a hair off, best to do it with the pump on the engine.

 

There is no need to work about the pump timing....as long as you haven't rotated the motor, and the gear is in the same position as when you removed the IP...then just line up the keyways and install.

This has been discussed many, many times and there is no need to worry about specific timing. Fine tuning it once it's running is another thing. But istalling it with teh keyways lied up will get you at least runing.

I've done a couple IP's and I never worried about the timing. Tore them down to bare bones and slapped them back together. Lined up the keyway and installed. After manbually bleeding the system via the lift pump, 12 cranks or less it was running.