lovemysan

Well I attempted the injection pump head seal replacement today. I asked a good mechanic friend with smaller hands to actually pull the head and install the new seal. It went fine with no funny noises, everything felt/looked good. I buttoned it and primed the pump until it felt full. Cracked the injectors and cranked it over I got fuel pouring out of cylinders 2 and 5 but no others. It would dribble but not poof. I cranked a total of 6 20 second attempts. I heard three metalic clacks the first 2 cranks. I guess it'll have to go into the shop for repair. Not sure what the sounds where I guess I ruined the pump. Is there anything I could have missed or something I could check out?

joeytechman

if the head was pulled back too far, fulcrum springs, cam plate, rollers, can shift position. Did the head get pulled back any further than just exposing the o-ring?

Doesn't sound good.

lovemysan

It got pulled 1/16" past the oring. I had gone inside to say dinner prayers with the kids and eat a bite.

BearKiller

Are you meaning that you tried to replace the O-ring WITHOUT first removing and completely dis-assembling the pump ??

joeytechman

I'ts spring loaded, if it popped out

thrashingcows

Doing the head O-ring in truck is not recommended...at least by me.

I wrecked my first IP and reseal, and I had it out of the truck on the bench. When I reassembled mine I did not put a dab or grease to hold the small thrust washer that rides between the cam plate and the piston head. It got trapped between the two grooves and when I tried cranking I heard noises similar to yours but didn't think anything of it right away. After several days of trying to get it going I found metal particles in the body of the IP, disassembly revealed the shattered washer, and then upon fine inspection the crack in through the piston head.

If your lucky maybe it was the springs that shattered. You can buy new ones.

lovemysan

I used the TDI head reseal method. I posted before and others were successful using the same method. I think it boils down to what position the pump is in internally. It looks like at least a $700 mistake.

thrashingcows

I'd pull the pump and open it up first. You might get luck with just the springs breaking...$50 fix.

When I toasted mine I was able to find a good core 2 1/2 hours from my place. 5 hours later I had my rebuildable core home, I paid $150. I figured the extra IP cost, and fuel, and another DGK-121 Re-seal kit, my mistake cost me less then $300.

lovemysan

Do I need to get the engine timing pin inserted and lock the pump before I pull it? Do I need the injector socket? Do I need the barring tool? Do I need the special cummins pump gear puller?

Subliminal

I also have a spare IP that I picked up for $100. I think I've seen quite a few go for sale on the forums.

BearKiller

A simple steering-wheel puller gets the gear off.

Unless you want to try for weeks to get it back in place, it is paramount that you remove the C-clip and LOCK the pump-shaft in position BEFORE pulling the gear and removing the pump bolts.

Before taking any parts off of the pump, SCRIBE a deep line across both the pump housing and the shaft, marking it's location.

The shaft will most likely be riding up on a cam, under strong spring pressure, when you lock it.

Be SURE that you put the shaft back in EXACTLY the same spot.

You will have to have the pump secured in a big vise and hold the shaft against the spring pressure while locking the shaft; it will want to roll off the cam.

I can't speak for locating the engine at TDC prior to pump removal; I never have.

The injector sockets are nice, but not necessary.

BearKiller

Oh yeah, do ALL the O-rings and seals when the pump is off.

If one is leaking now, more will be leaking soon.