Low boost after pump reseal
#1
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Low boost after pump reseal
So in my other thread I detailed going through the pump. Basically I ended up putting in a dennyT pin, didn't change pump settings at all. I went from 25-27psi previously to 13-15psi or so now. I don't get it, I feel like with a more aggressive pin I should have more boost.
After I turned the pump/fuel screw up to 1/2 turn from hanging, timing bumped 1/8", boost is still the same (10-15psi).
I turned the fuel screw out 1 turn so that I could adjust/play with the idle/throttle travel more, still no increase in boost. Getting full throttle/pedal travel.
I've checked for boost leaks, it's non-intercooled, how many leaks could I have? lol.
Any ideas guys?
Also, pyro barely hits 1000 degress at wide open throttle and 15psi. I'm cool with low egt's but I'd like more boost
After I turned the pump/fuel screw up to 1/2 turn from hanging, timing bumped 1/8", boost is still the same (10-15psi).
I turned the fuel screw out 1 turn so that I could adjust/play with the idle/throttle travel more, still no increase in boost. Getting full throttle/pedal travel.
I've checked for boost leaks, it's non-intercooled, how many leaks could I have? lol.
Any ideas guys?
Also, pyro barely hits 1000 degress at wide open throttle and 15psi. I'm cool with low egt's but I'd like more boost
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Id bet it will and up being the pin that "rides" on the fuel pin is stuck in its bore. The result will be your truck running the same way it would if you installed your denny t fuel pin in 180º backwards so there is no ramp at all.
#3
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Quote,
Also, pyro barely hits 1000 degress at wide open throttle and 15psi
Sounds like your are in Valet Mode
Check the diaphragm for any tears in it, if it is leaking you will not get any boost = fuel = boost, sticking pin deep inside the top of the pump, also make sure there are still 2 copper washers on the banjo bolt to the boost line on the AFC housing.
Jim
Also, pyro barely hits 1000 degress at wide open throttle and 15psi
Sounds like your are in Valet Mode
Check the diaphragm for any tears in it, if it is leaking you will not get any boost = fuel = boost, sticking pin deep inside the top of the pump, also make sure there are still 2 copper washers on the banjo bolt to the boost line on the AFC housing.
Jim
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The pin that rides on the fuel pin moves freely in and out. There are both of the copper washers going to the AFC housing. I made an adapter so that I can pressurize the system from the turbo inlet and the pressure leaks down rather quickly; I'm only pressurizing to about 20 psi or so. ideas?
also, there are no very obvious leaks, I'm spraying everything down with soapy water
Do you think it's just leaking down through the motor? I don't have the turbo outlet plugged and can't hear any hissing from any connections/bolts at all.
also, there are no very obvious leaks, I'm spraying everything down with soapy water
Do you think it's just leaking down through the motor? I don't have the turbo outlet plugged and can't hear any hissing from any connections/bolts at all.
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Now the truck idles really badly, stumbling and then will cut off if I don't manually give it fuel. The idle was set correctly and was actually a tad high I thought. I'll pull the solenoid here in a little bit and make sure it looks good and then start looking for an air leak in the fuel system? From searching it seems that would be where I need to look?
I can't win for losing with this truck right now.
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So apparently it was all related to the idle? Turned up the idle, drove it, started doing the same thing, adjusted the idle again and it drove great, good power, 30+ psi if I pushed it hard. Guess it was something simple for once lol.
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