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Input please. Newb to diesel injection questions.

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Old 02-03-2018, 03:04 AM   #1  
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Input please. Newb to diesel injection questions.

Hey everyone. First, thanks for a great forum of information. I bought my Dodge D350 5.9L Cummins a year ago from a buddy and have been finding a lot of deferred maintenance. Shortly after purchase I bought an OEM manual and started browsing through the threads here. A wealth of info I must say. It has been helpful in the small projects so far. Having been raised performing routine maintenance on vehicles, I have a good mechanical background. At times it feels like a pain in the A$$ and a bit of a burden but I do my repairs due to financial necessity and a bit of glory knowing I did a job well done. Time to do these repairs is the biggest challenge.

Now, I am treading into new fuels with diesel. Lately, I have a bigger project on my hands I think. I noticed the injection pump is leaking now. At first it appeared as a leak out of the vent on deceleration. Now it appears to be dripping all the time and dripping off the bottom of the pump and I can't specifically locate where it is coming from. This vehicle does not get driven since I need to fix this leak very soon and from what I have read, I will need to replace some of the seals and o-rings with the rebuild kit. I have some questions, listed below, after reading through these two threads.

Repair leaking fuel pin

How to repair a leaking Governor Shaft and Fuel Screw


First, does the injection pump need to be removed from the vehicle to perform all the seal replacements? If so, How does it come out? I haven't found this procedure in the OEM manual.
Second, Jim refers to indexing the throttle shaft. I have looked through this forum, and also my shop manual, for this and not found it. How do I do this?
Lastly, I'm assuming the first question is irrelevant and the injector pump had to come of the motor. How far does the injector pump have to be torn down to replace the necessary seals and o-rings that everyone commonly repairs?
Also, should I perform the 3200 rpm spring change while it is apart? If it matters, I have no idea of the actual mileage on this motor. I assume it is rather high.

This truck will be primarily a work horse for hauling lumber and a machine or 2 possibly on short, day trip, highway runs. Not a daily driver and not working everyday. It just needs to work when I need it to work.

Any help y'all can provide, I would be grateful.
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Old 02-03-2018, 10:11 AM   #2  
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RF- do you own a shop manual for your truck? Youíre starting to get into an area of repair that would validate spending the money for a shop manual. Iím not talking about a Chilton or Haynes manual, either, but a shop manual that about 3Ē thick designed for your truck. I believe they are about $110 in book form or $40 in CD version from genosgarage.com. That manual will walk you step by step on pump removal, and list all the torque values as well. Invest in that, as youíll need it if your going to be wrenching on your own rig.

On YouTube there is a series of three video tutorials, that was put out by I believe Chrysler back in the day. It shows all the steps and specialty tools needed to remove your pump. Just type in Cummins VE pump removal and youíll find it.

On eBay, if you look up VE pump seal kits, you will come across a booklet and/or CD on how to disassemble and reseal a Bosch VE pump. Get those, and youíll be golden.

On the seal kits, most folks on here buy the true Bosch seal kit from a guy on eBay named angelofishes. Itís kit #DGK121.
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Old 02-03-2018, 01:56 PM   #3  
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Rockauto has the Bishko Factory Service Manual hard copy for $80 and the CD ROM for $23 plus shipping. I have the Bishko hard copy and don't leave home without it. For comparison the Haynes manual is about an inch thick the bishko is 3.5" thick.
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Old 02-03-2018, 03:51 PM   #4  
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The OEM FSM will not have any specific information on rebuilding the IP, I believe there was a smaller supplemental Cummins only manual as well, and it has lots of info on the motor and it's workings.

Yes the IP has to come off the motor for a proper re-seal. And to re-seal only a few seals is a waste of time IMO...if you're tearing it part way down may as well finish the job and tear it completely apart and replace all the seals. Buy a genuine Bosch DGK-121 re-seal kit as well.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:53 PM   #5  
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Alrighty then. Looks like I'm in for another learning curve. Thanks for all the input.

Bigragu and Mr. Fusion, yes I do own an OEM manual on the truck and found the info I was looking for. I was having trouble finding it. Sat down and just started looking at all the diesel subsections. Through the years I have found haynes manuals to be a good starting point and good for "easy" fixes, but as my father always said ... an OEM manual is the way to go.

Thrashingcows - I saw there was a cummins supplement, I just didn't buy it. May have to eventually. Yes, I will wind up rebuilding the whole pump since it will be out of the truck. I can hear my father and grandfather in the back of my head. BTW, should I replace the gov spring with the 3200 rpm version?

here's a couple questions after looking over the procedure in the manual.
1)- I have no idea if the gear housing has been removed so, based off the manual, the injection pump key-way should be in the down position AND the timing pin should line up?
2)- What is the probability of the injection pump drive gear key falling into the gear housing? It seems likely with the key-way upside down. Any known safe guards?
Also, what metric size bit is the barring tool? It looks to be a standard star drive

Wrapping my head around this to get started this week. I have limited time everyday and I will have to go at it in stages.

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:06 PM   #6  
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Yes do the 3200 spring while you have everything apart. I have done a number of IP re-seal jobs over the years and they are intimidating units the first time your get one apart, but once you understand the workings they are actually quite elegant in their simplicity.

You don't need to mess with the timing pin, or barring the motor, just remove the IP and then once finished the re-seal just line the shaft up with the gear and install....do not move or alter the position of the timing gear though....only adjust the IP shaft. I have the IP in a vice, then use a couple rags and a small pipe wrench, woodruff key in place, to spin the mainshaft.

You more likely to have the woodruff key slip out during install then removal. Some rags or paper towels stuffed in front of the gear between it and the case should catch a wandering key.

Take tons of pics and measurements as you dis-assemble. Lay everything out in an orderly fashion and you should be fine.
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Old 02-04-2018, 04:35 PM   #7  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrashingcows View Post
You don't need to mess with the timing pin, or barring the motor, just remove the IP and then once finished the re-seal just line the shaft up with the gear and install....do not move or alter the position of the timing gear though....only adjust the IP shaft. I have the IP in a vice, then use a couple rags and a small pipe wrench, woodruff key in place, to spin the mainshaft.
So I am spinning just the injection pump mainshaft? what does this do and why am doing it?

They look fairly simple in design. It's just something new for me. I'm up for the challenge though. They say mental challenges are good for the old noggin!
What does the 3200 rpm spring do? Diesel injection is all fairly new to me.

I plan on taking bunches of pics now that we have the abilities of modern devices. I will also be counting threads, taking measurements and making notes since this job will be done over several days.

It's been a while since I've tackled something "new" like this. Thanks for the vote of confidence and the help.

-Frank
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