I know this might sound dumb but me and a fren where just talking and all. ill spare you the whole debate and just ask the question. is the gov spring that spring on the fuel pin and the star wheel and i see alot of things about diff gov springs allowin more rpm but i thought diesel is low rpm if it gets to high it will blow?

 

Nope, that's not it. It's under the whole top cover, not under the AFC.

I've worked on Diesels that turn over 5,000rpm... I've worked on diesels that spin only 88rpm, and idle at 24. Depends on what size engine, what type, etc.

You can spin a B series to 3200 no problem. 4000 with some mods.

 

ok so what would my 92 5.9 diesel engine be able tu run i don have a tach on my truck cause its auto so i don know how many it runs now. i have all ways assumed about 2500 maybe 2700 tops ya know

 

the springs make you turn either 3200 or 4200 stock is 2800 i think

 

I don't recommend the spring with the automatic trucks unless you like burning up autos faster than they already do.

Just think of it, the Kick Down cable is adjusted to shift at certain points in the RPM band, so with nothing else changed, you add a magic spring, now you're turning more RPM with less pedal relatively... This means more RPM with less Kick Down cable (=BAD) but what you'll find is that with these trucks stock you'll be nearly out of tighter adjustment with the KDC before you even put the spring in...

For Autos I just recommend removing the high idle screw... Auto trucks don't even need extra fueling at high RPMs you're already blowing through the converter as it is....

Getrag trucks on the other hand.... makes the 2-3 shift manageable...

 

True.... when I dyno'd the utility truck, I saw a spike in hp to 1700rpm or so, then flatlined at about 200hp (208 max) untill 2700rpm, then dropped off. Max on my run was 2950 or so. Just turned up the fuel screw and when dropping the idle back down, I gained more throttle travel, just like turning the high idle screw.

Anyway, the dyno fellow commented on that. If I was running stick I would have put a bit more down. The converter was holding me back heavy.

 

Oh all right so you guys saying to remove the idle screw? what will this acompolish? im tryna just figure out exactly about what you talking about before i try anything with the fuel pump ya know wat i mean i don want to mess nothin up haha

 

I think every one of these trucks ought to have a 3200 RPM spring installed.

 

x2, especially the stick trucks.

 

Should definately be the first mod. Makes it act like a totally different truck

 

I know everyone is a fan of the 3200. I spent a ton of time trying to Tune the '89 with the 727 with the 3200 gov spring and basically found out that the Kick Down Cable end stop was limiting my high end anyway and any less adjustment on the KDC (to provide more throttle rpm) would result in the shifts being too early in normal driving situations. SO.... my opinion is based off my tuning experience...

Petrecca - what I was saying was: for a free cheap and non invasive first step just try removing the high idle screw, and tighten up the cable slack at the pedal so it pulls the pedal all the way UP and then see where you're at...

I'm having a ball with my '72 that has a 1991.0 / 727 auto with stock gov spring and just the high idle screw gone. And I've had the pump top off twice, so putting the inexpensive spring in there wasn't the issue.

 

have you checked the sticky yet? There are great, labled pictures in there so you know whats up. Look towards the bottom of the page, that's where all the tuning stuff is.

 

My 3200 RPM spring was the best improvement just under the turbo upgrade, With it I can now cruise @85-90 MPH without it I could barely hit 85 with my foot to the floor.

Also if it is in a truck with an auto it is good to have the trans coolers working to their best, as they can generate a lot of heat.

Jim