I hope. Stuck a new regulator on, 15 bucks at NAPA, they had them in stock. Almost got two and stuck them both on the firewall. I wonder if right above the exhaust manifold is the greatest place for them? Anyhow, it seems that the regulator was jumping to full output while the grid heaters were on, then wasn't backing off when the heaters went off. I've been running around with the regulator unhooked most of the time the last few days. Working 12 hour days makes it tough to get into the parts store.

Glad I didn't have my lights on relays yet, too. That and the fusible link delete are next on the list.

 

Hope that solves your problem. It's nice when it's an easy..and cheap fix...

 

It holds just over 14 volts now, according to the dash. I think I might look at relocating the regulator, and mounting a spare beside it so when this one goes all I have to do is swap the plug over.

I do need to get a slip yoke, too. Almost forgot that. The yoke is too narrow, to seat the snap rings properly, it binds the joint. And it didn't go together right last time I had it out.

 

I have never gone through so many regulators in my life as I have in my truck

is this normal for these trucks to eat them up ? Maybe every year or so.

 

Try an OEM Mopar one from a junkyard.

 

if I can not find an oem from a junkyard, what is the next best one? Napa has a cheap one and one around $40. I put the cheap on in this summer and it is bad now.

By the way where is butterscotch? your Mercedes? I just another a 77 240D, maple yellow.

 

You can still get oem Mopar regulator. Various after market racing suppliers have them, for about $26. Part #P3690731. Do a search of the part#, several suppliers will pop up. I just installed one to try and stop my pulsating lights. It made no difference, but may be a better reg. than parts store brands, but I doubt it. (.02) Probably all made by the same co.

 

OEM is not a guarantee I hav put them on and 2 weeks later its pulsing again I have tried all kinds of large ground wire
and dielectric grease + new alts. now Im living with it

 

what voltages are you guys running at? I had to replace mine last month and now I'm running at 14.9V which still seems high to me

 

You might try a ground wire for the regulator. Locally several people on cars have don so. Electronics don't like heat.

 

Definitely try a 10 ga. ground or so from the negative battery post to the drivers side fender and make sure you have a good clean connection. It fixed my constantly wondering light flicker with my blue external voltage regulator. Also just made my headlight relay harness with the 3rd relay last night and going to install this morning. Can't Wait!!!

 

I've got each battery grounded to the left fender, radiator support, and the motor where the alternator ground is.

I might try relocating my regulator. Get it away from that manifold.

 

The only real cure for the crappy Dodge wiring system, poor regulators, and troublesome Nippon-Denso alternators is to replace the whole mess with a 110-555 Leece-Neville.


When I did the Cummins swap into my Ford, I kept the Ford wiring and the old half-a-million-mile 90-amp 1G Ford alternator.

That old worn-out antique alternator easily outperformed the 120-amp ND units in all the rest of our trucks.

Now, I have a Leece-Neville in it and it is even many times better than the Ford system.

A brand-new, in the box, Leece-Neville costs about half of what a rebuilt ND will cost.