I was just working in my garage, when my stack of 1st gen driveshafts caught my eye. I was thinking that I could make up a custom 'shaft for my old mud truck. It is a divorced mounted np-205 '72 1/2 ton shortbed. This made the reardriveshaft very short - well under 3 feet. After I lifted her 7-8 inches I would just eat the front U-joint on the rear driveshaft. Many rides home front wheel drive only. I though that the bigger u-joint on the CTD driveshafts would deal with the bad angle better... So my question is are the splines on the yoke that goes to the NP-205, where the rear shaft bolts to, the same through the years on dodges? What about the D-60s and D-70s yokes?
Thanks, it is great to have a place to voice the questions that roll around my head

 

The 60's and the 70's are the same, you can swap a 1410 d70 yoke to the front if you wished. I don't know about the early Dodge np205's. But on the diesel manual trucks the 205 input is 29 spline vs. the diesel auto trucks of 23 spline. The front and rear output on both auto and manual diesel is 32 spline.

 

Thanks bgilbert. I have heard of people using the divorced-mounted np-205 for thier crew cab CTD conversions. They put them behind a 2 wheel drive Nv-4500[or what ever tranny they like] with a third small drive shaft. The 5-speed 4 wheel drive np-205 with the 29 spline are hard to find sometimes, so they use the divorced np-205. They must still be using a 1410 u joint on thier rear driveshaft.....Has anyone here done this? Are the splines the same on the rear output, between the two T-cases?
Thanks

 

I don't have the answer to your specific question but I do know that my divorced np205 has a 1410 input yoke. It was upgraded after the old shaft broke (two holes in the floor)

 

All the old Dodge and International divorced transfer cases (the ones with passenger side drop) are 32 spline on both outputs and the input.

 

What about the ford drivers drop?

 

With that much driveshaft angle you need to use a CV joint on the rear drive shaft too. Use spring perch shims to get the pinion as close to straight inline with the drive shaft as possible. Then back up a good hill and over fill the rear differential by a quart or so.

I had 10" of lift on a Blazer, same problem, CV joint on the rear was the only solution.

 

I have 11 degrees driveshaft angle right now but the pinion is at +5 degrees static right now after swapping in the springs from my 1990 donor. (the 1972 springs were dead.)

I see that spicer says max recommended driveline rpm for 11.5 degrees is 1500 rpm... I can take the 3" blocks out of the spring packs if necessary to lower the back end. I have 2 degrees of rake right now rear end high.

 

Oddly enough the smaller u-joint's take more angle than the larger one's.On my front drive shaft which has a fair good angle i run the BAMF shaft with 1410 joint's.they will take lot's of angle.