that's more snow than we got all winter, and the weatherman said we were in for a bad one.

 

Every time the weatherman said we were in for a bad one nothing happens.

 

ours will say the next day "it snowed...it just didn't reach the ground"...doesn't that mena it DIDN'T snow?
but this happens every time I have 4WD...we have mild winters.

 

I'm actually doing front bearings on mine again right now, did both of the boss's trucks the last couple weeks. Must be something going around.

It appears that your inner seals are SKF, or CR. Personally I have given up on them and only use national on my truck. It seems I'm doing front bearings on the boss mans trucks every six months because the Napa SKF seals give up the ghost. The national seal 415009 that I just installed on mine are made with a thicker metal, and the rubber seal surface area is wider.

Poor pictures yes, I'm sorry. But this is the National, compared to the Napa Skf

 

They also sell a "rebuild" kit for the lock outs. I looked into them once, don't remember what all is included besides the orings. I decided it wasn't worth the cost for what came in the kit. I have started putting a bit of silicone on the oring to help seal it to the hub

 

Just an update in this thread....I have been having issues with a rattling, loose valve type noise for a few months now and been getting progressively worse. Is RPM and engine load specific.....if I am accelerating with more then 5lbs boost, or under deceleration with no throttle, there is no noise. The noise seems to only be under "cruise" situation where the engine uses enough power to maintain road speed. And it starts rattling around 1500 rpm and is the worse around 1700rpm, but will rattle on up through 2000+rpm.

I have done a few things to try and figure out what the noise is....removed belt (no change), changed oil from T6 5w40 to T4 15W40 (helped a little), added 2 quarts of lucas oil additive to 15W40 and made things worse and swapped back to the T6 5w40, adjusted valves (no change), removed M/H timing spacer (helped a little), and lots of poking around the motor listening.

From some suggestions I decided to check to make sure the timing gear nut was tight, and that there was no cracks in the timing gear. Well last week I did this and found a crack in the timing gear. So was hunting for a new or good used gear when a friend (and local 1st Gen'er Dan123dbl) texted me about a timing gear for sale on craigslist....called and had it shipped up to me.

So yesterday was the swap the gear time...and I figured it would be maybe 3-4 hours to do the job, well as things often do things went sideways....

 

Tore things apart and got the cracked gear off. It was not cracked all the way to the outside of the gear, but probably a good 3" crack starting at the center of the keyway and going out.





And with the good used gear....



I had rotated the motor to line up the timing marks before removing the gear so I could get the new gear installed correctly. Started to install the new gear and was having a heck of a time getting the gear to go onto the IP and line up with the woodruff key. I finally figured I got it on and tightened it up but when I was probing the keyway with a small piece of wire things did not feel right, so I pulled the gear to make sure things were OK, well the woodruff key was tilted backwards in the keyway on the IP and would not move or come out for all my trying.

I did not want ot alter the orientation of the IP so was trying to get the woodruff key out on the bottom side of the shaft....eventually I had to rotate the IP shaft so it was pointing upwards and was finally able to work it loose.

Well this is what I found....

 

I don't think all that damage to the woodruff key was from me installing the new gear, I found little shards of metal in the timing case caked with oil, and a piece of woodruff key smooshed on the side of the IP shaft.

I also found this on the IP shaft....



It was deep enough at the top side of the shaft to catch my finger nail on it easily. I think the gear was not seated properly on the IP shaft after I did the IP reseal about 3 years ago.....Oops! I used some emery cloth to clean that area up and dug out a spare woodruff key and tried again to get things lined up and installed.

After a hour or so of fighting it was suggested to me that I should try loosening the IP so I could have a bit of wiggle to get the gear on properly. Did this but I could not get the gear on properly, so I removed more and more from the IP and it still wouldn't go on. I finally decided to pull the IP completely.



Once I did this I was finally able to wrestle things together properly and after checking the woodruff key in the keyway it was seated properly.

 

Same thing happened to me, but the woodruff key was compromised and I ran it anyway. (or tried to) Ended up having to put a new key in.

 

While I was in there I decided to swap out the oil pump for the one from my 89 motor.





Even though the one form my 89 motor looks like it has had along and hard life compared to the one removed from my 93 motor, I figured I would still swap it in since it could potentially be one of my issues.

I finished re-assembling everything about midnight, got the system bled and fired the truck up. The motor did "seem" to be running a tad different, but only ran it for about 5 min before cleaning up and going to bed. Have a bunch of running around to do today so will hopefully see if things are better.

 

You've been busy!

 

Patches is in good hands.

 

Always something. At least it is fixable I won't say easily.Every time I try to avoid something I end up spending more time and doing it anyway.

 

Put about 200km's on the truck today...loaded up the family, Kayak's and gear and headed up to a lake for the evening.

And after all that the noise is still there..... Though it does seem to be a tad different in pitch, and when it seems to be coming on now. Will have to watch things and monitor the outside temps, RPM and speeds when it's most noticeable. Will try the spare injectors next and see if that makes any difference.

 

Timken seals are good too. SKF's are like the bare minimum for a seal